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 SWITZERLAND
Switzerland is almost too perfect: spectacular Alpine scenery, cozy mountain
chalets, dazzling ski runs, flower boxes spilling over with geraniums, tidy
cities set on serene lakes, elegant grand hotels, punctual trains and people. If
you're going for the scenery or for the skiing, there are few places that can
equal it (in quality or prices). And there are few places as clean, safe and
orderly as Switzerland. But the Swiss passion for order and cleanliness can be a
bit unnerving: It is "coziness under strict control," as an acquaintance of ours
described it.
Switzerland encompasses four cultures: French (Geneva and surrounding western
area), Italian (Lugano and surrounding southern area), Swiss-German (Zurich and
surrounding eastern area) and Romansh (St. Moritz and surrounding southeastern
region). In general, the French and Italian areas are more lively and
cosmopolitan and the German area more conservative and sedate. The Romansh area
is the least known and developed.
Despite all this cultural diversity, Switzerland is one of the most politically
stable countries in Europe. The country's strength lies in its wealth, its
generally conservative nature and, perhaps most important, the citizens' common
belief in a policy of armed neutrality. (That position of stalwart neutrality,
however, as well as the country's pristine image, have been called into question
by revelations about Swiss bankers' dealings with the Nazis during World War
II.)
Switzerland was one of the earliest democracies. It was formed in 1291 when
three cantons-Schwyz, Uri and Unterwalden-joined together to protect their
borders. Since then, the number of united cantons has risen to 26. Each retains
broad, autonomous powers. The federal government is led by a seven-member
council; the members rotate the presidency for one-year terms. Each of the 26
cantons also sends two representatives to serve in the capital city, Bern, on
the Council of States. This body and a National Council (200 deputies elected by
the people) constitute the two chambers of legislative authority.
Switzerland has three distinct geographical areas, each running east-west: the
Jura (rolling hills with forests), in the north near France; the Plateau
(forests, farmland, cities and lakes), in the center; and the Alps (high
mountains), in the south.
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PERSONAL SAFETY
Switzerland is considered a safe country. Most travelers do not encounter any
problems. But take the usual precautions: Be aware of your surroundings and
don't leave belongings unattended.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency:
Canadian Travel Advisory Line-Phone 613-944-6788. Toll-free (in Canada)
800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
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SNAPSHOT
Spectacular Alpine scenery, immaculate hotels, hiking, fishing, water sports,
skiing, climbing, quality shopping, tennis, health spas, cycling, golf,
chocolates and a wide range of food are Switzerland's main attractions.
Switzerland is so visually stunning that almost everyone will be impressed with
it. Skiers, climbers and others who love mountains will especially enjoy the
Alps. It's an ideal country for families. There are affordable accommodations,
but you'll have to look outside the best-known locales for them-Switzerland is
one of the most expensive countries in Europe. The only people who shouldn't go
are those who have difficulty adjusting to high altitudes or those looking for
thrilling nightlife.
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GEOSTATS
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports required of Australian, Canadian,
U.K. and U.S. citizens. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier
before departure.
Health Certificates: None required. Contact health authorities for the latest information.
Currency: Swiss franc (Sfr). 100 rappen = 1 Sfr. In the non-German-speaking parts of
Switzerland, rappen are referred to as centimes.
Population: 7,262,372.
Area: 15,900 sq mi/41,181 sq km.
Languages: German, French, Italian, Romansh (Latin-based language). Many Swiss speak
English.
Economy: Industry, banking, services.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant).
Government: Federal republic.
Weather: Temperate, varying with altitude and season.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts
Telephone Codes: 41, country code.
Airport Departure Tax: None.
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed
from the last Sunday of March to the last Sunday of October.
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WHAT TO DO THERE ???
BASEL
This northern city (pop. 170,000) on the Rhine River, near the spot where
Switzerland, France and Germany meet, doesn't really merit a long stay. In
medieval times, Basel was a center for fabric-dye production; technology
developed and Basel is now the headquarters for many of the world's
pharmaceutical companies.
The city's attractions include the 11th-century cathedral (which holds the tomb
of Erasmus), the Munster (9th-century red sandstone cathedral), University of
Switzerland (the oldest in the country), Three-Country Corner and Market Square
(with its surrounding medieval-era houses). Drei Konige, or the "Three Kings on
the Rhine," is Europe's oldest hotel-its guests have included Queen Victoria,
Napoleon and Charles Dickens.
There are a number of museums: the Antikenmuseum (ancient Greek and Roman
artifacts), the Kunstmuseum (one of the country's best fine arts museums), a
small Jewish Museum and the Paper Museum (covers the history of printing). The
Museum Jean Tinguely offers a sampling of the Swiss sculptor's delightfully
whimsical mechanical contraptions. The Fondation Beyeler contains works by
Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh and other well-known artists.
If time permits, take a dinner cruise on the Rhine in the evening or ride one of
the unpowered ferries across the river (each is attached to an overhead cable
and propelled by the pressure of the water's current).
If you're going during the city's lively Carnival, book your hotel months in
advance or stay in Zurich or Bern and take advantage of special early-morning
trains that depart from those cities for Basel. In spring the city hosts a huge
gemstone fair that attracts international buyers (and those of us who just
browse).
There are a few other attractions nearby: The Schlumpf Museum, just across the
border in Mulhouse, France, has vintage cars. And a day trip could be made to
France's Alsace region for wine tasting or to Rheinfelden for the spa and
medieval buildings. 60 mi/100 km north of Bern.
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BERN
Switzerland's capital city (pop. 136,000) is beautiful. It was destroyed by a
fire in 1405 and then totally rebuilt, so it has many fine examples of
early-15th-century architecture-so many that the U.N. has declared it a World
Heritage Site. Climb to the top of the cathedral for a sweeping view of the
city. The thick-walled stone houses in the Old Town are brightened by boxes of
geraniums on the balconies; providing sharp contrast are majestic green-domed
government buildings that hang on a high bluff overlooking the Aare River.
Bern is also known for its Bear Pits, where six (usually) bears spend their days
cadging carrots from tourists. (Fortunately, the pits have been expanded to give
the bears more space, but it's far from a natural habitat.) The city's name
derives from the German word for bear, and you'll see the animals prominently
portrayed on the municipal flag and coat of arms.
Visit the 12th-century Clock Tower and see its hourly show of mechanical figures
(be sure to get there at least four minutes before the hour). Stroll through the
lovely botanical gardens (rare flora collection) and the Rose Garden across the
Aare River, overlooking the city. Bern has a few interesting museums: the
Kunstmuseum has the world's largest collection of paintings by native artist
Paul Klee, while the Postal Museum has one of the world's largest collections of
stamps. The Albert Einstein House gives an insightful glimpse at the home where
the physicist formulated his Theory of Relativity.
For good shopping head to the Arcades (4 mi/6 km of centuries-old vaulted
arcades), which has elegant boutiques, art galleries, fur and jewelry salons
and, of course, Swiss chocolates, watches and knives. The city also hosts a
number of street markets each week, with produce stands as well as antiques and
handicrafts.
If it's sunny, take a trolley and cable railway up to Gurten (2,800 ft/850 m
high) for a superb view of the mountainous Bernese Oberland region and the snowy
peaks of Jungfrau, Eiger and Monch.
The area around Bern offers hiking or rafting in the summer and skiing in the
winter. The city itself can be seen on a day train trip from Zurich or Geneva,
but we think it's worth spending the night. 55 mi/90 km west of Lucerne.
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BRIG
If you're in the area of Brig, allow two hours or so to visit the nearby Rhone
Glacier. Brig is also a gateway to the resorts of Saas Fee and Zermatt,
as well as Italy (via a major tunnel through the Alps). 105 mi/170 km
southeast of Bern.
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CHUR
Capital of the canton of Graubunden (or Grisons in French), Chur has been
inhabited since at least 3000 BC and is the oldest city in Switzerland. Relics
from the Stone Age have been found there and are displayed in a splendid
archaeologic museum in the Old Town.
Follow the red and green footsteps painted on pavements leading to the main
attractions (pick up the similarly colored pamphlets, printed in English, that
describe what you're visiting). Then follow the blue footsteps, painted as a
student prank, from pub to pub. The Rhine River and spectacular mountains and
valleys are in the area, and the glamorous ski resorts of St. Moritz,
Arosa and Davos aren't far.
A special treat in Chur is the Romantik Hotel Stern, with its impressive
collection of old coaches and sleighs. This is the gathering place for the
town-and one spot where you'll find that the Swiss are not so standoffish after
all. The area around Chur is what is sometimes known as the Heidi Area. 75
mi/120 km southeast of Zurich.
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FRIBOURG
Located in one of the many Swiss regions where languages and cultures merge (in
this case, French and German), Fribourg is a beautiful little town built on a
hillside. Red-tiled buildings in the old section wind their way up from the
Saane River to the Gothic St. Nicholas Cathedral. It also has a pretty town hall
and a Museum of Art and History. Fribourg makes a nice stop if you are traveling
by car between Bern and Lausanne or Geneva. 20 mi/30 km southwest of
Bern.
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GENEVA
Geneva (pop. 167,000) is a very cosmopolitan city on Lake Geneva (also called
Lac Leman) in the far western part of the country. Religious reformer John
Calvin influenced the city's development: To curb excessive displays of wealth,
he persuaded local jewelers to build watches instead. The city merits two
nights, but if time is a factor, there are more interesting parts of the country
to see.
Visit the Old Quarter, St. Pierre Cathedral, the headquarters for various
international organizations and Le Jet d'Eau (the tallest fountain in Europe).
The city is dotted with fountains, sculptures and frescoes (the government sets
aside 2% of its construction budget to decorate the city) and has lots of
pleasant parks in which to stroll or relax. Two of our favorites are the Jardin
Anglais, featuring a large clock made of flowers, and the Parc de la Grange,
with its extensive collection of roses. Shoppers will find the usual wide Swiss
selection of jewelry, watches and designer goods.
Day trips include a ferry ride on Lake Geneva (possibly from Geneva to
Lausanne), a tour of one of the 21 castles on the lake or a hike through the
nearby wine region with stops for samples along the way (follow one of the
clearly marked vineyard routes). 95 mi/150 km southwest of Bern.
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GRINDELWALD
This town in the Jungfrau region offers winter horse-drawn sleigh rides and good
skiing; during other seasons, hike into the hills or shop. Be sure to visit one
of the nearby glaciers (the higher one, Obergletscher, is the best). We
recommend visiting the town via the train from Interlaken. The trip is
spectacular-if you go all the way up to Jungfrau Station, you'll ride the
highest railway in Europe. 50 mi/80 km southwest of Lucerne.
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HEIDI AREA
Chalets in the mountains, yodelers, ski lodges and horse-drawn sleigh rides are
typical images of Switzerland, and there are two adjacent Swiss areas where
these images come to life: the Bernese Oberland, and the Heidi Area near Chur in
eastern Switzerland. We recommend spending no less than five nights in these
areas to see Alphorn blowers, beautiful hilly pastures, waterfalls, glaciers and
detailed wood carvings on houses and bridges. Heidi's home (Heidihof) is in
Maienfeld, just a few miles north of the town of Chur.
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INTERLAKEN
At an altitude of 1,870 ft/570 m in the Bernese Oberland region, Interlaken is
an excellent place to use as a base for short tours through the area. Interlaken
lies at the base of the Jungfrau Mountains between Lake Brienz and Lake Thun.
Blessed with a fairly stable and mild climate, it's simply beautiful. The only
downside to Interlaken is that it's very touristy in the summer with concerts,
equestrian events, tennis, hiking excursions and water sports. The surrounding
countryside is beautiful then. Don't miss a performance of the
Tellspiele, a re-enactment of the William Tell legend.
A scenic way to get into the nearby Jungfrau Mountains is by train to
Grindelwald. It's Europe's highest railway, passing by Mt. Eiger, Jungfraujoch
(11,333 ft/3,454 m), the Sphinx-Panorama and the Ice Palace; you may see huskies
along the way. If you're not coming from or going to Grindelwald, take the ride
as a day trip. Other day trips include a visit to the village of Brienz
to see Ballenberg, its outdoor living museum of old houses, where traditional
crafts are demonstrated; a ride on the cable car from Stechelberg up to
Murren; or a simple drive through the charming villages in the area.
40 mi/65 km southeast of Bern.
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LAUSANNE
Lausanne (pop. 123,000) and its port city, Ouchy (pronounced
ou-SHEE), are on the northern bank of Lake Geneva. They can be seen
either as a day trip from Geneva or (better) in a two-night stay. The older part
of the city, called the Cite, is fun to stroll; be sure to see the port area,
the 13th-century tower, the exquisite 12th-century Gothic cathedral and the
14th-century Chateau St. Maire. The Art Brut Museum has interesting and
inventive works done by unconventional artists (some of whom were eventually
institutionalized). Lausanne, which is the headquarters for the International
Olympic Committee, has a museum tracing the history of the Olympics.
If you have a few extra days available, you might visit some of the charming
towns in the area, including Vevey and Gruyeres. There are a
number of old villages in the surrounding hills that are worth a stop, among
them Epesses and Riex. Most of them can be reached by following
the well-marked Route de Vignoble (Route of the Vineyard), named after the many
private vineyards and wine cellars dotting these hills (these specialty routes
are almost always preferable to the major highways). And be sure to stop and
taste some of the wines along the way.
You can also go across the lake to France. The spa/resort Royal Club Evian is in
Evian, where Evian water is bottled. For a long day trip, head to Chamonix to
see Mt. Blanc (the tallest mountain in Europe). Cable cars climb to a point near
the top called Les Aiguilles du Midi, which offers stunning views on clear days.
For those who don't want to go up quite that high, there's also a cable car that
goes to a glacier called La Mer de Glace. There you can walk upon and even go
inside a tunneled portion of the glacier. If you go, don't forget to take your
passport, as you will be leaving Switzerland. 35 mi/60 km northeast of
Geneva.
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LOCARNO
Though it was the seat of the dukes of Milan in ancient times, Locarno has been
Swiss since 1516. Set on the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, Locarno has art
galleries, excellent antiques and the Church of Madonna del Sasso. A pretty city
of banana and palm trees, Locarno offers visitors a chance to rest and renew in
its many piazzas and outdoor cafes. You can take a cable car up to the Cimetta,
a belvedere with a wonderful view over the town and lake.
In the nearby town of Melide, the Swissminiatur provides fun for kids of
all ages: it has models of hundreds of Swiss landmarks on a scale of 1:25.
Melide also hosts an open-air film festival in summer. There are many other
quaint villages in this area offering spectacular scenery, peaceful lakes, stone
churches and wine tasting. Among them are Ascona, Morcote,
Gandria and, across the border in Italy, Como, Luino and Campione. (If
you plan to go to Italy, remember to take your passport with you.) 145 mi/235
km south of Zurich.
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LUCERNE
Lucerne (pop. 59,000) is one of Switzerland's most charming medieval cities. We
think it's best seen on foot. To begin your tour, cross the Chapel Bridge
(rebuilt after a fire in 1993). The bridge is covered, and there are wonderful
paintings of Lucerne's history on the ceiling. There's also another medieval
wooden footbridge in town called the Spreuerbrucke, which has several macabre
paintings of the Dance of Death on its ceiling. In town, visit the Jesuit church
and the Lion of Lucerne, a dramatic rock sculpture of a dying lion that is a
monument to the Swiss Guards who fought and died protecting Louis XVI during the
French Revolution. The Old Town is a must, especially Weinmarkt; take special
note of the painted facades of the buildings. Other attractions include the
Panorama Museum (for its vast circular war painting), the Folk-Costume Museum
(regionally dressed Swiss dolls), the Am Rhyn Mansion (notable Picasso
collection), a very unusual bread museum (the dough is sculpted into various
shapes) and a number of impressive churches.
Just a couple of miles from the town center (along the lake) is the Swiss
Transport Museum, one of the best of its kind in the world. There are many
trains on display (from elaborate model railways to full-size locomotives) and
an extensive airplane collection. If you'd rather stay outdoors, rent a rowboat
or paddleboat and cruise on the lake among the swans.
Also be sure to take the trip via cable car from Kriens to Mt. Pilatus, a
huge mountain adjacent to the city, for lunch and a great view. To get back,
take what's locally claimed to be the steepest cogwheel railway in the world to
the town of Alpnachstad and board a steamer for Lucerne (this is really
an all-day event). Other pleasant trips can be taken to Mt. Rigi or Mt. Titlis;
both can be reached by cable car. A half-day trip can be taken to the town of
Altdorf, where the mythical figure of William Tell was supposed to have
lived. Someone in town will be happy to take you to the site of the legend and
give you the local version of events. If time permits, go high up in the hills
on the other side of the lake (opposite Lucerne) to Burgenstock, an Old
World-style resort area with charming hotels and outstanding views of the lake
and environs. 35 mi/55 km southwest of Zurich.
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LUGANO
It's been said that Lugano has the "gaiety and romance of Italy, encased in a
Swiss precision watch." The city's culture, language and food are Italian, yet
its accommodations are spotlessly Swiss. Conspicuous wealth abounds. It's
situated on beautiful Lake Lugano between Mt. San Salvatore and Mt. Bre-you can
take the cogwheel train up Mt. Bre for a breathtaking view. The Villa Favorita
(a short bus ride from the bustling city center and its banks and elegant shops)
is said to contain the second most valuable private art collection in the world
(after Queen Elizabeth's), although some 800 of the paintings in this collection
have been moved to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid. Lugano now rivals
Montreux as a jazz mecca, with a yearly spring festival that lures big names
from around the world. The town of Bellinzona (with three impressive
castles) makes a nice day trip, especially on a Saturday when there is an
open-air market. 145 mi/235 km south of Zurich.
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MONTREUX
Trendy Montreux, with its large Old World-style hotels and relaxing atmosphere,
is in a resort area on the eastern end of Lake Geneva. It and nearby
Vevey offer lakeside areas for lounging, summer water sports (including
windsurfing) and an entertainment complex that includes a casino, as well as a
world-famous jazz festival every July. Montreux is the home of many finishing
schools for girls (they draw an international clientele).
Day trips can be made to visit (or pay homage to) the Nestle Chocolate factory
in Broc (the corporate offices are in Vevey); Gruyeres (a charming
hilltop town surrounded by a wall and dominated by a castle) to see the dairy
and cheese factory; the Chateau of Chillon on Lake Geneva (Switzerland's
best-known castle, made famous by Byron in his poem Prisoner of Chillon);
Rochers-de-Naye (6,700 ft/ 2,045 m) via cogwheel train from Montreux, for
a great view; Grand St. Bernard or Chamonix, France. For a magnificent
view, board one of the Panoramic or Superpanoramic express trains. They pass
spectacular scenery along the Bernese Oberland route. 15 mi/25 km east of
Lausanne along Lake Geneva.
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NEUCHATEL
A truly sparkling little city (its buildings of yellow sandstone glitter in the
sun), Neuchatel, the cantonal seat, is situated at the foot of the Jura
Mountains on the largest lake entirely in Switzerland. The city is acclaimed
academically because of its outstanding prep schools and university. It's also
said that the purest French spoken in Switzerland is spoken in Neuchatel.
At the Art and History Museum, ask if you can see the androids-three mechanical
puppets built in 1774 that are so fascinating that they were invited to perform
in the courts of 18th- and 19th-century Europe. In tiny towns clustered
throughout the canton, Swiss clocks and watches are made. 25 mi/40 km west of
Bern.
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SCHWYZ
This very typical Swiss town is near Lucerne in central Switzerland. The
surrounding canton of Schwyz (pronounced shfeetz) was one of three
founding members of the Swiss Confederation and gave its name to the rest of the
country (Switzerland is called "Schweiz" in German). Plan on two nights to see
the architecture (especially the town hall), meet the people and enjoy the food.
The Victorinox factory, where they make the original Swiss Army knives, is in
town-it has a shop. Taking the rack railway up to the resort town of
Stoos is also worthwhile. 20 mi/35 km east of Lucerne.
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ST. GALLEN
When driving between Zurich and Innsbruck, Austria, allow an extra night in St.
Gallen (pop.73,000) or the surrounding Appenzell region. Visit St. Gallen's town
square, the baroque cathedral and the world-renowned Abbey Library, which has an
excellent collection of medieval manuscripts. 50 mi/75 km east of Zurich.
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ST. MORITZ
This resort in the southeast is famous for being a retreat for the wealthy. Be
prepared for outrageous prices and a rather cold attitude exhibited by the
residents. Nonetheless, St. Moritz offers beautiful chalets, truly spectacular
shopping, mountain views, skiing and relaxation.
The soothing properties of the St. Moritz spa were extolled by Roman soldiers in
the time of Christ, and the praises haven't yet stopped. It's a good place to
soak away the aches and pains that result from hiking in vertical scenery. Take
a mud bath, get an herbal wrap or just enjoy drinking the excellent mineral
water. Badrutt's Palace Hotel, one of Europe's finest hotels, is located there.
St. Moritz is the terminus of the Bernina and Glacier Express, two
not-to-be-missed train rides through the Alps. Not far from town is the small
alpine village of Soglio, near the Italian border-really a must for its
beauty and atmosphere. Also nearby are the beautiful unspoiled Engadine Valley
and the Swiss National Park (55 sq mi/140 sq km of pristine forest). 145
mi/235 km southeast of Zurich.
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THUN
Thun is a well-established market town that also makes an excellent place to
begin an exploration of the Bernese Oberland Mountains. It's much less touristy
than Interlaken (just a two-hour steamer trip across Thuner See). Thun is one of
Switzerland's largest military training areas, and relics of the town's early
military origins remain. Thun Castle, built in 1190, still dominates a
protective ridge above the town (a historical museum inside contains the
beautifully furnished Knights' Hall). A stroll from the medieval Rathausplatz to
the lakeshore provides wonderful views. 15 mi/25 km southeast of Bern.
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VALAIS AREA
The canton of Valais is large, stretching from the southern shore of Lake Geneva
south along the French border and east along the Italian border for half the
length of Switzerland (though Montreux and Vevey are not in Valais, they're
close enough that some tours lump them together). This area is home to some of
the most dramatic Alpine scenery in the country, including the town of Zermatt.
The Matterhorn, Eiger and Mt. Blanc can all be seen (on clear days) on a trip
via bus and cable car along the Pillon Pass. Other sights in the canton include
a fresco that tells the story of William Tell (it's painted on a house in
Ernen/Muhlebach) and Grand St. Bernard (it's not easy to get
to-it's in the mountains where St. Bernards were originally bred-but it has
beautiful churches and museums). Sion has enough old cathedrals and
interesting buildings to justify an overnight.
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THUN
Thun is a well-established market town that also makes an excellent place to
begin an exploration of the Bernese Oberland Mountains. It's much less touristy
than Interlaken (just a two-hour steamer trip across Thuner See). Thun is one of
Switzerland's largest military training areas, and relics of the town's early
military origins remain. Thun Castle, built in 1190, still dominates a
protective ridge above the town (a historical museum inside contains the
beautifully furnished Knights' Hall). A stroll from the medieval Rathausplatz to
the lakeshore provides wonderful views. 15 mi/25 km southeast of Bern.
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WINTERTHUR
This city (pop. 85,000) is famous for its art. Visit the Oskar-Reinhart
Foundation Museum, where paintings by Swiss, German and Austrian artists are on
display. There is a nice fine arts museum in town, as well. The Collegium
Musicum (founded in 1629) stages wonderful concerts. Nearby is the formidable
Kyburg Castle. 15 mi/25 km northeast of Zurich.
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ZERMATT
One of the best-known ski resorts in the world, this small town rates at least
an overnight, even for nonskiers. Despite a ban on cars (take a train from
Brig), the town is more touristy than quaint. Nonetheless, if you walk into the
mountains on one of the many hiking trails in the area, you'll quickly find
yourself in the midst of beautiful mountain scenery and pass by more than one
isolated chalet. The ultimate challenge, of course, is to climb the Matterhorn,
but the majority of visitors should be satisfied with riding the cable car up
the Klein Matterhorn (Little Matterhorn); it's the highest cable car in Europe.
On clear days, you can see its bigger brother. Don't be surprised to find skiers
even in the middle of summer-the highest slopes have snow year-round. Zermatt is
also an excellent tennis resort in summer, with lots of fine clay courts and a
good coaching staff. 95 mi/155 km southeast of Montreux.
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ZURICH
Whether you're strolling through the charming cobblestoned Old Town, pausing
near a fountain or contemplating the lake and the Alps in the distance, Zurich
provides one of the most refreshing backdrops of any European city. Nestled in
these dramatic surroundings are quaint guild houses, churches, town squares and
the winding lanes that connect them.
Zurich still guards its image as a conservative banking town, but it also has
its rebellious side. Zwingli joined with the governing fathers to launch his
brand of the Protestant Reformation, Lenin sat quietly in a cafe brewing his
ideas of reform and the Dada art movement emerged there, of all places. These
days, an alternative culture has established itself, with scores of young people
dancing and partying to a pulsing techno beat.
For a relatively small city, Zurich has a nice array of attractions. Start your
visit with a walk through the winding cobblestone streets of the Niederdorf (Old
Town). There are numerous impressive buildings to see there, but allow some time
for simply strolling through this charming area, sitting near one of the many
fountains or having coffee at a sidewalk cafe.
In addition to the Rathaus and the various guild houses, churches are Zurich's
main landmarks. The most impressive and significant ones are Fraumunster and
Grossmunster, which have contrasting styles. St. Peterskirche is also worth
visiting. Bahnhofstrasse, the most elegant street in Zurich, is a great place
for window shopping, and Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse are also nice routes.
If you're in the mood for a museum, visit the Landesmuseum or the Kunsthaus.
Both showcase the art and culture of the country.
At some point, the crystal clear waters of Zurichsee or the surrounding
tree-covered hills will probably lure you away from the city. A walk along the
shore, or a boat cruise in summer, offers lovely views. For a more lofty
perspective of the city, take the train up to Uetliberg and ascend the
observation tower.
For its size, Zurich has a substantial collection of excellent theaters and
opera houses, including many small theaters and troupes whose performances are
in French, German, Italian and sometimes English. Concerts and operas at the
Opernhaus are especially recommended. Because tickets for ballet and opera are
in heavy demand, reserve them well in advance.
Although most Swiss are not night owls, jazz clubs and nightclubs, bars,
cabarets and discos are open until 4 am. Stroll along Niederdorfstrasse, which
comes alive at night with street musicians and large crowds: The street is lined
with bars and clubs. Check newspapers or call the clubs for performance
schedules.
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SHOPPING
Shop for pottery, watches, crystal, embroidered items, wood carvings, clocks
(including cuckoos), Swiss army knives, liquors (try Williamine, the best thing
that can be done with a pear), lace, textiles, folklore souvenirs (such as music
boxes), cowbells, cheese, antiques, stainless-steel cutlery, ski equipment and
clothing, leather goods, shoes and chocolates.
Shopping Hours
Generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-noon and 1:30-6:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon and 1:30-4 pm.
Banking Hours
Generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm.
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DINING
Swiss food is not known for its subtlety-it's a meat-potatoes-and-cheese
country. But the Swiss do make nice sauces for vegetables and great desserts. As
might be expected, there's a French influence in the west, Italian in the south
and German in the north and east. Major cities have a variety of international
restaurants. Try the various types of fondue (even potato fondue is great) and
the air-dried meat, served in wafer-thin slices, known as Bundnerfleisch.
Experiment with the different cheeses and eat as many desserts as possible-and
don't miss the meringues! (Do we have to tell you to try the chocolates?)
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WEATHER
Despite the fact that the highest peaks of the Alps can get snow year-round
(it's rare July-September, however), Switzerland isn't as cold as most people
think. Spring, summer and autumn are all quite comfortable. June and July are
when the alpine wildflowers are usually at their peak, but summer is also noted
for lots of tourists. We suggest visiting in May unless skiing is part of your
itinerary-many resort hotels close down for the month. Take a sweater year-round
(a light raincoat and folding umbrella might come in handy, too).
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TRANSPORTATION
Many international carriers serve Zurich Airport (ZRH), which lies 7 mi/11 km
northeast of Zurich, and Geneva Airport (GVA), which is 3 mi/5 km northwest of
that city. Excellent and frequent rail service is available to and within
Switzerland. Visitors arriving on Swissair at Zurich, Geneva or Basel airports
who intend to travel to their final destinations in Switzerland by rail or boat
can have baggage forwarded there directly by an accelerated service known as Fly
Luggage (there's a small fee, except for business travelers). On the return
journey, luggage can be checked through to its final destination from any Swiss
railway station.
The superb transportation system makes the mountains more accessible than is
usually the case in other high-altitude countries. Escorted/hosted tours,
cogwheel and funicular trains, rental cars (preferred), campers and taxis are
the most common methods of seeing the country. Bicycles are available for rent
at many train stations.
If you're planning to visit different areas of Switzerland, consider buying the
Swiss Pass. It offers unlimited travel on trains (including most private rail
services), post coaches (yellow postal-service buses that might be the only
public transportation to some of the more remote areas) and lake boats. Contact
the tourist board for more information. Eurailpass is also accepted in
Switzerland and should be purchased before departure. Travelers looking for an
unusual way to arrive can take the luxuriously restored Venice-Simplon-Orient
Express from London to Zurich on its way to Istanbul. This famous train runs
twice a week during the summer.
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