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SEYCHELLES
The Seychelles may be the only country described exclusively in hyperbole. "Paradise," "Garden of Eden" and "spectacular" seem to be among the most common terms employed. And typically, the focus of these descriptions centers on the physical beauty of the islands: the multiple blue hues reflecting out of the water, the distinctive granite rock formations and the wide, clean beaches.

We can confirm that the hyperbole is well earned, but what impresses us most has to do with people, not scenery. We're convinced that one reason everyone comes back raving about the Seychelles (pronounced SAY-shells) is that, in addition to a beautiful setting, the society's attitude toward tourism is remarkably healthy. It seems to have avoided the atmosphere of mutual exploitation that exists on many Caribbean or South Pacific islands whose economies also rely on tourism. In the Seychelles, the gap between rich and poor is not striking: Local residents are as likely to be managing well-run properties as making beds. Pride in their islands is near universal, and resentment toward visitors is, though not entirely absent, seldom expressed.

Of course, this may change as the government develops the islands for increased tourism. Ports are being prepared for larger numbers of cruise ships, and roads are being constructed to cart boatloads of people to once-isolated beaches. Residents, anticipating new waves of visitors, are turning their homes into guest houses. Travelers who seek "paradise" may want to go sooner rather than later.

There is one factor, however, which will always limit the number of visitors: cost. It's expensive to get to the Seychelles, and food and hotel prices are also rather high.

HISTORY
That tourism is still in its developing stages shouldn't come as a surprise-the Seychelles' history as an inhabited land is rather short (pirates first found it 400 years ago). The first settlers arrived from France in the 1770s and turned the islands into a small slave colony. After the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century, the Seychelles became part of the British Empire, where it remained until achieving independece in 1976. Following independence, it became an unlikely player in the Cold War. In 1977, the jet-setting, capitalist prime minister was ousted by a socialist named Albert Rene, who became a client of more powerful Communist regimes. He's still in power, though he's changed his tune a bit, and after rejecting a tourist-based economy, he now embraces it.
GEOGRAPHY
The country is composed of more than 100 islands, which lie about 1,000 mi/1,600 km east of the African mainland. Each island has distinctive physical characteristics: About 75 are coral, and 25 are made of granite, which has weathered into beautiful shapes. (Some speculate that the granite islands, the only ones of their kind not attached to a continental shelf, are the remnants of Gondwanaland, an ancient continent that disappeared when the Indian subcontinent split off from what is now southern Africa.) The population is as diverse (European, Indian, Asian and African) as the array of unusual birds and spectacular flora (including 80 rare plants).
GEOSTATS
Official Name: Republic of Seychelles.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K and the U.S. need passports, proof of onward passage and sufficient funds. A visitor's permit, obtained upon arrival, is good for one month and may be extended up to one year. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Capital: Victoria.

Population: 79,326.

Languages: Creole, English, French.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 4 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 240 volts.

Telephone Codes: 248, country code.

SNAPSHOT
Beaches, bird watching, snorkeling, waterskiing, big-game fishing, tropical scenery, windsurfing, surfing and local cuisine are the foremost attractions of the Seychelles.

Any beach or water-sports lover will love these islands. There's little else to do, however, so don't expect wild nightlife (though a number of hotels have discos). The only other restriction is self-imposed-you may feel intimidated by the high cost of goods and services.

SEE AND DO
Don't go to the Seychelles for a short visit-it's so remote and so beautiful that, once you arrive, you should allow yourself a minimum of 10 days. Try to see at least two islands.
Day 1-Arrive Mahe.
Day 2-Sightseeing in Victoria.
Day 3-Morne Seychellois National Park and the evening sunset cruise.
Day 4-Ste. Anne Marine National Park boat tour.
Day 5-Fly to Praslin Island.
Days 6 and 7-Praslin Island.
Day 8-Ferry to La Digue Island.
Day 9-La Digue Island.
Day 10-Fly back to Mahe and depart.

If this itinerary seems rushed, swap out a day from Mahe with La Digue. Also, if time permits, add one more day on Praslin and two or three days each on Denis Island (if you're going deep-sea fishing) and Bird and Fregate Islands (if you're going bird watching). Even if you're not a bird lover, spend at least one night on Bird Island. It's quite an experience to see and hear (and smell) so many birds in one spot.

SHOPPING
Good buys include wide-brimmed men's straw hats and other straw goods, local art (works by resident painter Michael Adams are popular), spices (especially vanilla, Creole curry and cinnamon), island tea, local music (Essay Quatre is one the Seychelles' better-known musicians), mother-of-pearl rings, green snail shells, batiks, carved walking sticks and T-shirts.

Shopping Hours: Approximately Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon.

DINING
The Seychelles' mixed heritage is evident in its cooking. The Creole, French, Asian and Indian cuisines are all excellent. Seafood is the local staple, combined with spices, vegetables and tropical fruits (the mangoes, passion fruit and melons are particularly good). Try lobster, octopus and pork dishes, especially if they're prepared with a coconut-milk base. Some of the best food is found in small, family-owned restaurants. SeyBrew is the local beer, and it's quite good.
WEATHER
The climate, while hot, is nearly perfect year-round. The islands are not in the cyclone/monsoon belt, so high winds and heavy rains are rare. There is, however, a rainy season November-January. If that's the only time available, by all means go (it's still sunny enough for sunbathing). The humidity is high, but a breeze usually keeps it tolerable.

The best time to go depends on what you want to do. The diving is best March-May and September-November, for instance. Bird watching is best April-October while the fishing is best October-April. If you have a favorite activity, contact the tourist office for information about the best time to visit.