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 POLAND
Poland baffles. The country in eastern Europe most devastated by World War II
(it lost a quarter of its population), Poland now has the fastest-growing
economy in the region. Saddled by a terrible legacy of pollution from its
Soviet-era industries, Poland also has some of the most pristine forests in
Europe, complete with buffalo. The first country in the region to break free of
Communism, it later freely elected former Communist leaders.
It's no puzzle, however, why Poland draws so many travelers-and particularly so
many travelers of Polish heritage. Evidence of Poland's past abounds, from
beautiful medieval castles to Chopin shrines to the stark structures of Nazi
concentration camps. Despite its strong regional diversity, Poland is also among
the most unified of eastern European countries-bound by language, devout
Catholicism and common history.
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HISTORY
Much of the country's turbulent history is at least partly the result of its
location: It had to be traversed by various European powers on their way to do
battle with other European powers (even the Swedes ventured forth across the
Baltic to conquer it). At one time, Poland itself ruled a large empire,
stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea.
In the late 1700s, three partitions led to the disappearance of the Polish state
for nearly 130 years. Its territories were more or less evenly divided among the
German, Russian and Austro-Hungarian Empires. When those empires collapsed
during World War I, Poland was reconstituted as an independent nation. The
respite was brief-the nation was devastated just 20 years later in World War II,
and after the war, Poland became a Soviet puppet state.
Despite its history of occupation-or perhaps because of it-Poland became a
leader in the movement for a free eastern Europe. Repeated strikes and
rebellions from the early 1950s onward created an atmosphere in which
independent trade unions, such as Solidarity, could be formed. Elections in 1989
threw the Communists out of power and set Poland on its present course. After 50
years of suppression, the full range of emotions surfaced, and even now, it's
not unusual to meet someone who speaks joyously about freedom in one sentence
and then blasts the current government for bringing about shortages and
unemployment in the next. This paradox was also reflected in the second
presidential elections in late 1995, when incumbent president Lech Walesa,
former Solidarity leader and adamant anticommunist, was narrowly defeated by
Alexander Kwasniewski, a former Communist Party leader. Kwasniewski was
replaced, in turn, by a Solidarity coalition, but he was re-elected in October
2000. The country's efforts to move beyond a history of political oppression
were most visibly demonstrated, however, when Poland joined the NATO alliance in
1999.
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GEOGRAPHY
Poland consists primarily of flat, rolling plains (the word pole means
field). Forests and lakes abound, particularly in the northeast, and lovely
rivers flow from south to north throughout the country. Its diverse regions
range from industrial Silesia in the southwest and the central lowlands of
Mazovia (around Warsaw) to bucolic Malopolska (Little Poland) in the southeast
and coastal Pomerania to the north. The Sudeten and Carpathian Mountains lie to
the south, bordering the Czech and Slovak Republics.
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PERSONAL SAFETY
Visitors are required to register at a hotel or with the local police within 48
hours of arrival. Watch your belongings, especially on trains and in train
stations. Petty crime has increased, but Poland is still safer than many eastern
European countries.
Car theft is a big problem in Poland. Park in a well-lit area or in a paid
parking garage and don't leave suitcases or packages in plain view. Keep an eye
on your belongings in railway stations. Organized groups of thieves and
pickpockets operate in the train stations of major cities. The groups surround
travelers and distract them as they board or exit the train, picking their
pockets clean.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Canadian Travel Advisory Line-Phone 613-944-6788. Toll-free (in Canada)
800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
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SNAPSHOT
Medieval architecture, cultural events, health spas, historical sights, art,
scenery, beaches, hunting, opera, fishing, skiing and music festivals are
Poland's foremost attractions.
Poland will appeal to travelers of Polish heritage who want to visit their
ancestral homeland or those who have already visited eastern Europe and want to
gain a broader understanding of the region. Though Poles are outgoing and
friendly, visitors who don't speak Polish or German may find it difficult to
connect with them-few speak English fluently (though this is changing). Visitors
to Poland should be prepared for dining and hotel standards lower than those in
western Europe.
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GEOSTATS
Official Name: Republic of Poland.
Passport/Visa Requirements: Australian and Canadian citizens need both
passport and visa. U.K. and U.S. citizens need passport, but no visa required
for a visit of up to three months. Proof of onward passage and sufficient funds
required for all. Passports must be valid for six months after scheduled
departure from Poland. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier
before departure.
Health Certificates: No vaccinations required
Capital: Warsaw.
Currency: Zloty (ZLD). 100 groszy = 1 ZLD.
Population: 38,646,000.
Area: 120,725 sq mi/312,678 sq km.
Languages: Polish.
Economy: Agriculture, industry.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Government: Parliamentary republic.
Weather: Temperate.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts
Telephone Codes: 48, country code; 22, Warsaw city code; 12, Krakow city code.
Airport Departure Tax: None.
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed
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WHAT TO DO THERE ???
CZESTOCHOWA
This city (pronounced chens-toe-HOE-vuh) is primarily of interest to
devout Catholics. It's home to the holiest relic in Poland, the Black Madonna,
also known as "Our Lady of Czestochowa." The object, a painted wooden panel, is
kept in the 600-year-old Jasna Gora (Luminous Mountain) Monastery. (Copies of
the icon are displayed in many churches throughout Poland.) On major religious
holidays (such as Ascension Day), as many as 2 million visitors may go there to
pay homage. It's a tradition for pilgrims to walk to the shrine from their
homes-residents of Warsaw leave nine days earlier. The icon is displayed during
religious services only, so plan ahead to see it (don't expect to get a close
look). The monastery also has three museums, one of which contains Lech Walesa's
1983 Nobel Peace Prize. On holy days, and even on weekends, accommodations can
be very tight. Because the town offers few other attractions for tourists, it's
best to stop for a service at the monastery while en route from Warsaw to
Krakow.
If you do stop in Czestochowa and have the time, you can take an interesting day
trip to the nearby town of Olsztyn (not be confused with the northern
Polish city of the same name, which appears later in this report). The scenic
Eagles' Nest Trail starts there and continues south to Ojcow National Park near
Krakow, passing Mirow, Bobolice and the beautiful Ogrodzieniec
castles en route. The trail can be traversed on foot or bicycle or by car.
130 mi/210 km southwest of Warsaw.
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GDANSK
This old port city (pop. 480,000) on the Gulf of Danzig was established in the
10th century. We think it's one of Poland's loveliest cities. Allow at least a
day to see the ornate row houses in the Old City (Stary Miasto) and to visit the
port. Don't miss the beautifully restored 14th-century Town Hall (the interior
is overwhelmingly ornate); the magnificent houses along the Royal Way; the
city's gates; the prison tower (and its torture museum) and the huge St. Mary's
Church (the largest brick church in Poland). Gdansk was almost totally leveled
during World War II, which makes the restored buildings and monuments all the
more remarkable. The city is the birthplace of Gabriel Fahrenheit (of
thermometer fame), philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer, writer Gunter Grass, the
Solidarity trade union (a monument to the organization can be found at the
shipyards) and its leader, Lech Walesa. Another monument stands at Westerplatte,
the promontory at the mouth of the harbor, to mark the spot where 182 Polish
soldiers held out for a week against Nazi dive bombers, troops and a battleship
during the opening battle of World War II. Visit the nearby suburb of Oliwa, to
see and hear the famous organ in the cathedral. The organ is really
something-mechanized angels blow trumpets, ring bells and fly around when the
organ is playing.
Two other cities, Sopot and Gdynia, are often included on a tour
to Gdansk. Sopot is a nice seaside town with an excellent beach (but polluted
water) and the longest pier (1,680 ft/512 m) on the Baltic Sea. It has an
international song festival in the summer. Gdynia is a port city with a large
marina and a maritime museum-it's rather noisy and unattractive, however, and we
don't recommend going out of your way to see it. Instead, take a minibus or
train from Gdynia to the charming Hel Peninsula. Gdansk is 180 mi/290
km northwest of Warsaw.
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GNIEZNO
Inhabited since the 8th century, this town was once Poland's capital. Its
beautiful cathedral was the site of royal coronations for 300 years during the
Middle Ages. Although the church was desecrated by the Nazis in World War II, it
still retains its original 12th-century bronze doors and the silver sarcophagus
of St. Wojciech (Adalbertus), patron saint of Poland. The Museum of the Origins
of the Polish State is also in town. It has an interesting multimedia
presentation-available in English-about the development of medieval life in
Poland. Gniezno is also associated with the historical figure Lech, leader of
the Polonie tribe that gave the country its name. 28 mi/45 km northeast of
Poznan.
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KAZIMIERZ DOLNY
Located on the banks of the Vistula, this is one of the most charming towns in
Poland and a favorite of Poles. It was never scarred with ugly Soviet-style
buildings (which makes it a popular movie location). Start your stroll at the
main square, which is lined with stunning Renaissance houses. Then head to the
16th-century Franciscan monastery and finish at the ruins of the 14th-century
castle that overlooks the city. The town can be visited on a day trip from
Warsaw or en route from Warsaw to Krakow. It's surrounded by walking trails-ask
at the PTTK office (located on the main square) for a trail map of Kazimierz
Park. 57 mi/92 km southeast of Warsaw.
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KRAKOW
Krakow (pop. 750,700) is almost everybody's favorite Polish city-this
1,000-year-old former capital is the only large urban area in the nation that
escaped World War II without serious damage. (The retreating Nazis wired the
city so they could blow it up with dynamite, but the Polish resistance cut the
wires.) Coupled with Krakow's physical beauty is its standing as the country's
cultural center, making it a truly must-see destination. You can take a fast
train between Warsaw and Krakow-it makes the journey in just over two hours. If
time permits, drive there from Warsaw; while the journey can take as few as four
hours, allow the better part of a day so you can stop and soak in the beautiful
farmland, rivers and towns along the way.
In the center of Krakow is the largest medieval square in all of Europe, Old
Market Square. It's lined with historic buildings, and in the center of the
square are two important structures: the 13th-century Cloth Hall, now home to
souvenir and crafts stalls, and the Town Hall Tower, which hosts a summertime
tavern in the cellar (a vast improvement over its original use as a torture
chamber). Also on the square are St. Mary's Church (try to be there at noon when
the elaborate altarpiece is opened) and the Wierzynek restaurant, located in a
building where the kings of Poland, Hungary, Denmark and Cyprus met with the
German emperor in 1364 to discuss the threat from Turkey.
Within walking distance and west of the square are the Gothic 14th-century
buildings of Jagiellonian University (the second-oldest university in eastern
Europe-its Collegium Maius houses Copernicus' instruments). Wawel Castle, a
thousand-year-old palace/fortress atop a hill, lies south of the square. The
castle, which holds great historical significance to Poles, has a number of
interesting things inside: the royal treasures (including one of the best
collections of tapestries in Europe), the enormous Sigismund Bell and a
cathedral with the crypts of several Polish monarchs. The castle museum also
displays the winged armor used by Polish hussars (pirates) under King Sobieski
when he drove the Tartars out of Vienna (the wings, which whistled when the
soldiers rode into battle, gave the soldiers a supernatural appearance).
Stroll along nearby Kanonicza Street, one of Poland's loveliest thoroughfares.
Other structures of note in Krakow include the Church of Sts. Peter and Paul
(baroque interior), the National Museum (which includes works of Rembrandt and
Leonardo da Vinci), the History Museum and the town's old Defense Walls and
Barbican. There are dozens of other interesting old buildings; plan a couple of
hours just to wander the cobblestone streets, poking your head in stores and
taking a break in the local coffeehouses.
The best place to check out Krakow's theater, opera and ballet offerings is the
Center of Cultural Information. You can also purchase opera and ballet tickets
in season at the box office inside the lovely Slowackiego Theater, one of
Poland's most distinguished music halls. Its lavish interior should not be
missed, and the performances are generally excellent.
Take a walk along the Planty, a greenbelt surrounding the old city where the
city walls once were, and along the old Jewish quarter of Krakow, known as
Kazimierz. There are a couple of interesting synagogues (one has been turned
into a museum) plus a cemetery with hundreds of engraved tombstones, some 400
years old. Near the cemetery, an intimate coffeehouse called Ariel offers live
gypsy or Jewish music along with lunch and dinner.
Another incredible sight, just a couple of blocks off the Rynek (main square),
is the crypt in the Church of the Reformed Franciscans on Reformacka Street. The
crypt has an unusual climate that causes the bodies to mummify without
embalming. There are hundreds of bodies (we were particularly struck by the
woman in a wedding dress). This morbidly fascinating crypt may be seen by
special arrangement with the priests.
Allow at least two days to see the sights of the city, but add another night for
a half-day excursion to Oswiecim (38 mi/61 km west) to see
Auschwitz, the grim Nazi extermination camp (commemorated by a museum and
memorial), and the nearby death camp Birkenau. Make sure to visit the new
Auschwitz Jewish Center, a site for prayer and education that houses the only
Oswiecim synagogue to survive the war. Another half day could be spent on a
7-mi/10-km excursion to the Wieliczka Salt Mines, which run about 90 mi/150 km
underground. Founded between the 10th and 13th centuries, they're claimed to be
the oldest salt mines in the world. There is a chapel carved out of salt
(complete with chandeliers made from salt crystals). You can also use Krakow as
a base to visit Wadowice, birthplace of Pope John Paul II (his parents'
apartment is now a museum), and Czestochowa. 155 mi/250 km southwest of
Warsaw.
Note: Despite its beauty, Krakow is one of the most polluted major cities
in Europe. The dirty air poses a serious health concern for residents, and it's
a long-term threat to historic structures. Things are improving, and most
visitors won't be affected by the air during a short visit, but those with
respiratory problems should be aware they may experience some discomfort.
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LANCUT
In southeastern Poland near the town of Rzeszow, Lancut is worth a detour
to see its beautiful baroque palace and its rare collection of period coaches.
(One wing of the palace is operated as a small hotel and restaurant.) The palace
hosts an important music festival in May. The best way to visit the town is on a
three-day tour from Krakow that takes in Poland's lovely but rarely visited
eastern cities: Zamosc, Przemysl, Lublin, Kazimierz Dolny and
Sandomierz. 105 mi/170 km east of Krakow.
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LEBA
The resort of Leba (pronounced WAY-ba) has tall, Sahara-like sand dunes
and long, broad, pretty beaches. Much of the area is within the Slowinski
National Park, where you can walk, bicycle or take a carriage. Several
campgrounds (with wooden cabins for rent) are nestled among the pine forests.
Avoid summer weekends, however, unless you like crowds-that's when Leba is
overrun with holidaymakers (the beaches are considered to be the cleanest in
Poland). You can follow the beach to the village of Czolpino
(refreshments and camping available). Farther south (5 mi/8 km) is
Smoldzino, which has a very pleasant small hotel and cafe named Gosciniec
Pod Rowokolem. 35 mi/60 km northwest of Gdynia.
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LODZ
This large industrial city of 852,000 is commonly called Poland's
Manchester-it's grimy and industrial. Few old buildings still stand (the oldest
are near Wolnosci Square). The factory owned by Oscar Schindler, whose story was
told in Schindler's List (the book and the film), is located in Lodz.
It's not open for tours, but you can see its elaborate iron gates. Opposite the
Poznanski Palace (which now houses the Historical Museum of Lodz) is the former
Jewish Ghetto, now a park.
Lodz was once adorned with the opulent palaces of textile-mill magnates. A few
of these structures remain, including the Palace of the Herbst Family, which is
open to visitors.
Lodz is an important cultural center. The city is home to Poland's film school
and the country's best modern-art museum and best orchestra. Visit nearby
Piotrkow Trybunalski, a medieval town to the southeast, which was the
site of many religious diets and synods in the late Middle Ages. Stroll the
streets of the small town, stopping by the Jesuit church and the castle. Lodz
is 75 mi/120 km southwest of Warsaw.
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LUBLIN
Lublin (pop. 333,000) is an ancient city with an old town center dating from the
Middle Ages. We loved the atmosphere around the Rynek (Market Place) but found
the rest of the city to be fairly plain. Visit the castle, the City History
Museum at Krakow Gate, the cathedral and the Dominican church. Allow half a day
to see the city, another half day if you're going to see the nearby
Majdanek Nazi concentration camp (as an extermination camp, it was second
only to Auschwitz). You'll find a memorial, a museum and a large park there.
95 mi/155 km southeast of Warsaw.
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MALBORK
This photogenic city is the home of the Castle of the Order of Teutonic Knights,
a huge, well-preserved medieval fortress. The 13th-century Gothic structure
housed more than 700 knights and thousands of attendants. Inside is a wonderful
amber museum. We suggest planning half a day there. 25 mi/40 km southeast of
Gdansk and 150 mi/242 km northwest of Warsaw.
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MIKOLAJKI
Set in the center of the lovely Great Mazurian Lake District, picturesque
Mikolajki affords many opportunities for camping and invigorating hikes in the
surrounding forests. From May to September, lake boats depart the town dock for
scenic day cruises to Gizycko and Ruciane-Nida. Visitors can then
return to Mikolajki by rail. It's best to visit in summer. North of Mikolajki,
near Ketrzyn, are the remains of Hitler's headquarters known as the Wolf's Lair
at Gierloz. A simple hotel, cafe and campground are nearby. 110 mi/175 km
north of Warsaw.
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OLSZTYN
This city (pop. 155,000) is associated with the astronomer Copernicus. Visit the
14th-century Great Gate (now an inn), St. James Cathedral (Gothic), old Town
Hall and Olsztyn Castle, which was defended by Copernicus from attack by
Teutonic knights in 1521 (it's now a museum). Popular nearby lakes include Lake
Plaszno and Lake Lanskie, where there are camping facilities. 80 mi/130 km
southeast of Gdansk.
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POZNAN
Set on the banks of the Warta River, 1,000-year-old Poznan blends Gothic and
baroque in much of its architecture. Highlights of this industrialized city
(pop. 586,000) include a 10th-century cathedral, Dzialynski Palace, Palm Garden,
Raczynski Library, the Opera House and the Museum of Musical Instruments (it
houses Chopin's pianos). In Old Town Square, a crowd gathers on the hour to
watch the clock on the old town hall that dates back to 1550. Poznan hosts the
largest international trade fair in Central Europe. It's held in June, a festive
though crowded time to visit the city. 165 mi/270 km west of Warsaw.
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SANDOMIERZ
This small hilltop town is a nice stop en route to Krakow from Warsaw. Guided
tours are available for the burghers' houses on the main square, the
14th-century town hall and the 15th-century cellars beneath the town square.
115 mi/185 km southeast of Warsaw.
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SZCZECIN
This city (pop. 397,000) in the northwestern corner of Poland is usually seen by
visitors who cross into Poland from Berlin. We recommend stopping to see the
11th-century Pomeranian Knights Castle and 14th-century church. Stargard
Azczecinski, south of Szczecin, is a quiet town with spectacular medieval
walls and towers-excellent for walking around. It has the picturesque Hotel Dom
Wycieczkowy. The seaside town of Swinoujscie, 40 mi/65 km north, is a
pleasant place to overnight. You can take a ferry across to Scandinavia. Near
Swinoujscie, in Miedzyzdroje, are the posh Amber Baltic Hotel and golf
course. 125 mi/ 200 km northwest of Poznan.
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TORUN
This university town dates from the 13th century-it was an important trading
city in the Middle Ages. But it's perhaps best known as the birthplace of the
great astronomer Copernicus. Tour his home and museum as well as the Old Town
Hall museum, which displays antique stained glass and paintings.
Torun is considered the best-preserved Gothic town in Poland-the atmosphere of
the Old Town is worth making the day trip from Warsaw. Its medieval walls and
remaining gates are gems. (A small guidebook titled The Medieval Walls of
Torun is available in English in the local Tourist Information Office.)
While you're in Torun, sample the delicious local gingerbread, which is popular
throughout Poland. 135 mi/220 km northwest of Warsaw.
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WARSAW
"Destroyed and rebuilt." You'll hear the phrase-spoken with pride and
sadness-everywhere in Warsaw. It's applied to palaces and churches, to entire
neighborhoods, even individual cobblestone streets. You'll also come across
monuments documenting atrocities and memorializing acts of resistance. Through
it all, you'll realize that the city itself is a testament to resilience and
rebirth.
At the same time, the words "drab" and "dreary" may tug at your mind. They're
inspired mostly by the gray, dilapidated buildings and prefab-concrete apartment
boxes that blot the urban landscape. But as the city experiences a building
boom-adding attractive shops, restaurants and cinemas-even those reminders of a
not-so-happy past are being spruced up. In Warsaw, it seems, preservation and
renewal go hand in hand.
Before setting off on a sightseeing tour, it might be useful to put the city and
its sights in a historical context. One of the best ways to do this is to visit
the Warsaw Historical Museum and see the film that depicts the nearly complete
destruction of Warsaw in World War II. Following that, you can walk through
Stare Miasto (Old Town) and Nowe Miasto (New Town) and appreciate the
reconstructed quarters in a different light. A must-see in Stare Miasto is Zamek
Krolewski (the Royal Palace), rebuilt in the 1970s and '80s. Tours are offered
of the interior, and the Palace Museum exhibits some of the original
furnishings. In both Old Town and New Town you'll find a rynek (central
marketplace or square), as well as churches and palaces.
The heart of Warsaw is Centrum. That's where you'll find most of the city's
museums, as well as more churches and palaces. The Royal Way, which runs from
the Royal Palace to Wilanow Palace, is lined with many of these sights. A few
blocks east of the Royal Way are Saski Gardens and, farther to the south, the
imposing Stalinist-style Palace of Culture and Science. A wide array of art is
displayed in Muzeum Narodowe (National Museum). Another good art museum is the
Center for Contemporary Art, which is near Lasienki Park, a beautiful green
oasis dotted with palaces. Farther south, in another lovely park, is Wilanow
Palace, King Jan Sobieski's beautiful baroque retreat.
Warsaw's infamous Jewish ghetto was west of Centrum. Nothing remains of the
original neighborhood, but you can visit the memorial in Muranow and the
Zydowskie Instytut Historyczny (Jewish Historical Institute), which documents
the history of Polish Jews before, during and after World War II. Two other
sights related to World War II are the Monument to the Heroes of the Warsaw
Uprising and the Pawiak Prison Museum.
Warsaw is easily seen on self-guided tours, but organized tours provide more
perspective and can clear up questions about Poland's complex history. Another
option is Bus No. 180, a tourist bus that passes by most of the main sights.
Jazz and rock fill the nightlife scene, but opera and classical music are heavy
hitters among Warsaw's many performing-arts offerings. The grand Teatr Wielki is
the city's most prominent venue for opera, dance and occasional concerts. The
city has several orchestras, including the Warsaw Philharmonic. Classical
concerts are held in various palaces and churches and, in summer, in local
parks. The most popular venues for large pop and rock concerts are Gwardii
Stadium and Sala Kongresowa in the Palace of Culture.
Even non-Polish-speaking visitors may enjoy a performance at Warsaw's many
theaters. In addition to the National Theater, there are also a Jewish theater
with performances in Yiddish, an English-language troupe and a children's
theater. Musicals are staged at Teatr Muzyczny Roma.
Warsaw's nightlife ranges from tame pubs to upbeat jazz clubs to electric dance
clubs. Several neighborhoods are guaranteed to offer something of interest.
Ulica Foksal, east of Krakowskie Przedmiescie, is lined with clubs, restaurants
and bars, including the latest hot spot, SOMA. Ulica Wierzbowa, west of Teatr
Wielki, has three nightclubs: Rabarbar (food and attitude), Zanzi Bar (drinks
and attitude) and Barbados (dance and attitude). If those don't do the trick, go
north on Senatorska toward Plac Zamkowy and check out Winda Winehouse. If you're
still vertical, walk through Rynek Starego Miasto (Old Town Square) to Ulica
Freta, where there's a string of new pubs, cafes and jazz clubs.
Live music is somewhat scarce, but this is improving. Some regular venues
include Jazz Cafe, Dekada and Lolek. The best nightclubs are Piekarnia, Labirynt
and Scena 2000. Wherever you go, expect a lot of smoke.
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WROCLAW
This lovely city of 640,000 is off the beaten path but merits one day to see the
impressive Gothic cathedral, the gorgeous town hall and city square and the
Raclawice Panorama. The Panorama, a canvas half the size of a soccer field,
depicts the 1794 battle of Raclawice. (In 1997, the city faced a different kind
of crisis when its citizens rallied to save its historic landmarks from a
devastating flood.) Visit Wroclaw's Market Hall, a short walk from the
university-food is sold in stalls downstairs and crafts are available upstairs.
Wroclaw's beautiful Opera House offers an extensive repertoire from September to
April. Its Music Theater features popular musicals in Polish.
If time allows, you can take a day trip to Ksiaz Castle, with 415 rooms and
lovely gardens, or to Klodzko, a fortified medieval hillside town,
located about 60 mi/95 km south of Wroclaw, that dates back to the 10th century.
There is an Underground Tourist Route in the village that traverses abandoned
cellars and defensive tunnels that played roles in various conflicts over the
years. Napoleon's army was unable to capture this fortress, but Hitler's troops
holed up here. Wroclaw is 190 mi/305 km southwest of Warsaw.
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ZAKOPANE
Set in the Tatra Mountains, this year-round ski resort is renowned for its
folklore, hiking, skiing and architecture. Near the center of Zakopane is the
funicular to Mt. Gubalowka. The top offers spectacular views over the Tatra
range-and the beginning of several walking trails. The walk leading to the
funicular passes several stalls where locals sell Tatra handicrafts.
Be sure to see other nearby towns and villages in the Tatras, where people live
much as they have for centuries. If you have time to visit only one, go to
Chocholowska, in a lovely mountain setting, where you'll see typical
loghouses built without nails.
The countryside offers waterfalls, lakes (such as Morskie Oko Lake), caves,
forests, rivers and the Beskidy Mountain towns of Orawka and Sucha
Beskidzka. If you get the opportunity, take a raft trip through the Dunajec
River Gorge in Pieniny National Park. After the raft trip, visit Poland's most
picturesque mountain castle, Niedzica. You can stay in the castle. 52 mi/85
km south of Krakow.
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SHOPPING
Krakow has the best selection of souvenirs and crafts in Poland, though there
are several nice stores in Warsaw and elsewhere. Shop for locally produced arts
and crafts (dolls, lace, glass and crystal, wood carvings, peasant rugs and
embroidery). Be sure you know the difference between good and bad amber before
you spend a lot of money. Leather boxes, chess boards, woven goods,
leather-and-glass sculpture, icons (new), woolens, embroidered shoes and wooden
plates are good buys. Oil paintings and watercolors, silver, painted wooden
boxes and chests, painted wooden eggs and political and religious paraphernalia
also make nice mementos. (If you're buying a painted egg, make sure it's wooden!
Some are made from real eggs and won't survive the journey home.) Heavily
embroidered native costumes are also available. Prices are very reasonable. Most
tourists end up in the big national chain stores: Cepelia (local arts and
crafts), DESA (fine art, sculpture, etc.) and PEWEX (imported goods-foreign
currency only). Be sure to go in some of the smaller local stores as well. Some
DESA stores are antique shops, but you won't be able to export anything made
prior to 1945. Certain items in PEWEX stores, such as Lego toys and U.S. wines,
cost considerably less there than they do back home. Komis shops are
consignment shops; most sell clothing, but occasionally you'll see one with a
selection of other interesting used items.
Shopping Hours
Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, except grocery stores, which are open Monday-Friday 6
am-7 pm, Saturday 7 am-1 pm. In larger cities a few stores may have weekend
hours.
Banking Hours
Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm.
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DINING
Enjoy eating real Polish ham, sausages (kielbasa), hunter's stew,
kalaches (fruit pastries), sauerkraut, pierogis (dumplings filled
with meat, mushrooms, cheese or fruit), stuffed cabbage, potato pancakes and
great desserts (try kisiel and gingerbread). Duck is also a common (and
delicious) ingredient in Polish cooking. Until recently, Poles were
meat-and-potatoes eaters with vegetables limited to cabbage, beets and
cucumbers. Things are slowly changing, and you see a lot more variety in
vegetables, particularly in upscale restaurants. If you get tired of starch and
meat, try one of the delicious soups.
Prices, even in restaurants in the deluxe hotels, are very reasonable-it won't
make much of a dent in your pocketbook to eat at least one meal in the best
restaurant in every city you visit. In Krakow, be sure to try the Wierzynek
restaurant. Not only does it have good, authentic Polish food at reasonable
prices, but it's also in a historically important building. Poland does have
fast food-pizzas and hamburgers, mainly-but don't expect it to taste similar to
what you're used to back home. Poland's traditional "fast food" is a hot bowl of
potatoes, grease and sour milk, which tastes as good as it sounds. We preferred
the local ice cream called lody, which comes in a variety of delicious
flavors.
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WEATHER
The best time to visit is May-September. Summer days can be hot, but take a
sweater for evenings. Winters are wet, cold, dreary and not a great time to
visit unless you're interested in skiing (December-April). In May and June, the
fields are overrun by wildflowers: poppies, cornflowers and daisies. October is
also a good time to go, because the weather is mild and there are no crowds.
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TRANSPORTATION
Major international airlines service Warsaw Okecie International Airport (WAW),
which is 6 mi/10 km southwest of Warsaw. There are excellent inter-Europe
ferries and hydrofoils (primarily from Helsinki, Finland, and Copenhagen,
Denmark, to either Gdansk or Szczecin), as well as fair rail and road service.
The internal rail service is very inexpensive, but be aware that there's a good
chance they won't meet anyone on the train who speaks English. The most
efficient trains run between Krakow and Warsaw. A great bargain is the Polrail
Pass, available through Orbis, which allows 8, 15, 21 or 30 days of unlimited
railway travel in Poland. The European East Pass offers travel in several
countries, including Poland. Although a picturesque way to travel, trains tend
to be crowded and slow (they make lots of stops). Be sure to obtain proper
insurance if you're driving. Escorted and hosted tours, hitchhiking (quite
popular), intracountry air travel, rental cars (with or without driver) and
buses are excellent ways to see the country. Buses are cheap and clean and make
fewer stops than the trains. There are trams, city buses and metered taxis in
Warsaw, and, after years of delays, Warsaw finally has a subway system.
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