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THE MALDIVES
The Maldives is a great place to play Robinson Crusoe: You can stay on a tiny island that has a soft, sandy beach, a sparkling turquoise lagoon and only a single dwelling (though Crusoe could only have imagined the comfort of some of the better resort hotels). And if you plunge beneath the surface of the lagoon, you'll find extraordinary underwater scenery that more than compensates for any lack of aboveground drama. Beneath the Maldives' waters are coral pinnacles, cliffs and caverns inhabited by an amazing variety of colorful reef fish.

The seclusion you'll find in the Maldives (pronounced MAHL-dives) is not merely an accident of geography, but a matter of deliberate design. Overwhelmed by an influx of tourists during the 1970s, government leaders created a master plan for the tourist industry, with the aim of emphasizing quality over quantity and minimizing the impact of tourism on the natural-and human-environment. The result was the development of a series of high-quality island resorts that have been cited as models for sustainable tourism development.

These improvements have come at a cost to travelers: The Maldives is not a place for bargain hunters. And you won't be free to travel wherever you wish within the islands-many of them remain off limits to outsiders except by hard-to-obtain permits. Nevertheless, most travelers will find the unspoiled beauty and serenity they discover in the Maldives to be well worth the cost.
HISTORY
The Maldives' earliest settlers probably arrived sometime before 500 BC. Several centuries later, Arab sailors began to visit the islands, stopping regularly to trade shells and fish. Arab influence led to the islands' conversion to Islam in 1153. For the next 800 years, the country was largely ruled by a succession of sultanates (though the sultans were sometimes forced to share authority with colonial powers from Portugal, the Netherlands or England). The Maldives became a British protectorate in 1887 and gained full independence in 1965. Three years later, the sultanate was abolished and Ibrahim Nasir was elected president of the new republic.

The first tourist resorts opened in 1972, but they were one of the few bright spots in the 10-year rule of Nasir. A failing economy and increasingly repressive government pushed the Maldivians to the brink of revolt, and Nasir fled the country in 1978. He was replaced by Maumoon Abdul Gayoom, whose relatively progressive style of leadership and emphasis on economic growth-particularly for tourism-made him immensely popular. He was re-elected president for a fifth term in 1998.
GEOGRAPHY
The archipelago of more than 1,200 coral islands and atolls stretches some 750 mi/1,200 km north-south in the Indian Ocean. The atolls are barely higher than sea level, and their sandy soil does not allow for the kind of lush vegetation usually associated with island paradises. They're quite close together-from any one, you can usually see a handful of others. Only a sixth of them are inhabited, but all share great fishing and excellent diving and snorkeling.

PERSONAL SAFETY
Crime is rare in the Maldives, but don't leave valuables unprotected on the beach. Be aware that it is against the law to openly practice any religion other than Islam.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Canadian Travel Advisory Line-Phone: 613-944-6788. Toll-free: 800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca. 

U.S. Department of State, Overseas Citizens Services-Phone: 202-647-5225. Toll-free: 888-407-4747. http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html. 
SNAPSHOT
Fishing, snorkeling and scuba diving, glorious sunsets, surfing, spectacular beaches, sailboat rides, meeting local residents and loafing are the main attractions of the Maldives.

It seems one has to travel forever to get to the Maldives, so a trip there is often part of a visit to India or Sri Lanka. The Maldives will appeal to travelers who enjoy flat, fairly isolated islands, with spectacular water sports and great beaches. Don't expect great food, exciting nightlife or South Pacific scenery-it might be paradise, but it's definitely not a lush, tropical one.
GEOSTATS
Official Name: Republic of Maldives.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, visas (issued free upon arrival for stays less than 30 days), proof of onward passage and sufficient funds are needed by citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. Reconfirm travel documentation requirements with your carrier before departure.

Capital: Male.

Population: 301,475.

Languages: Divehi, some English.

Predominant Religions: Islamic (Sunni).

Time Zone: 5 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 960, country code.
RECREATION
Most people go to the Maldives to relax and play in the water. The diving, fishing and surfing are excellent almost everywhere in the country-it's hard to recommend one island over another.
FISHING
 No matter what island you choose, be sure to arrange "night masa-ing," or night fishing. The better excursions are on large sailboats (they're quieter and generally more pleasant than motorboats), which depart at about 10 pm. Almost everybody catches something, but the real reason for the trip is to enjoy the beauty of the sea at night: The water is clear enough to see phosphorescent fish swimming below the surface. The trips usually last about four hours.
SCUBA DIVING & SNORKELLING
Though they remain a spectacular place to dive, the reefs of the Maldives were greatly affected by the coral bleaching that occurred during the El Nino season of 1998. (Coral bleaching refers to a process wherein the water temperature becomes too warm for coral to survive. When the coral dies, it turns white, hence the term "bleaching.") Some reefs have shown signs of recovery, but others have not. Your dive operator will know where to find the healthiest reefs. And the fish life remains among the best in the world.
SURFING
The Maldives has hosted several world-class surfing competitions. The best breaks are on the eastern edges of North Male Atoll and South Male Atoll. Take along your own board, as there are few rentals. The surf season runs March-November.
SHOPPING
Look for stamps, colorful island fabrics, T-shirts and shells. Local crafts include lacquer work and weaving. (Be aware that many items are actually made in India rather than locally.) We particularly like the woven mats known as kuna, with elegant geometric designs. Some of the stores sell black coral jewelry, often in tacky settings. You may also see items made from turtle shell. (In general, we don't recommend buying things made from coral or turtles: Purchasing them encourages further destruction of reefs, and the turtles of the Maldives are endangered.) There is some duty-free shopping.

Shopping Hours: Saturday-Thursday 8 am-11 pm.
DINING
You're generally at the mercy of your hotel's kitchen-you eat what they serve. Fortunately, the food is usually decent and will include fresh seafood, tropical fruit (especially coconuts), vegetables and some Indian dishes. In addition, most hotels will prepare any fish you catch. Now that more Europeans are visiting the islands, some properties are adding a bit of Continental flavor to their main dishes. Cafes and teahouses (there are many in Male) discourage local female customers, but they will serve foreign women.
WEATHER
Weather patterns are fairly unpredictable in the Maldives, although sea breezes keep the air comfortable most of the year and the water remains a remarkably steady, comfortable 75 F/30 C. The air temperature is also fairly constant, averaging 77-86 F/25-30 C year-round. The calmest seas and bluest skies generally occur from December-April, which is high season. There are two monsoon seasons, which just means it's a little more cloudy and there's a slightly greater chance of rain. The northeast monsoon, or iruvai, is December-March. It brings more wind than rain. The wetter southwest monsoon, or hulhangu, is May-October or November. Humidity is high all year.