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UNIGLOBE Geo Travel Has chosen these Italy Tours because of it's great value as well as providing a great adventure. We have also provided a complete description of ITALY below, read about the different cities, things to do, places to go, and everything you will need to know about travelling to ITALY.
Simply Italy 12 day tour Florence•Pisa•Lake Como•Venice•Monte Cassino•Rome Starting at $1109 Canadian (land only)

ITALY As we were hiking in the mountains, we were drawn by the tinkling sound of cowbells to a meadow, where we came upon a breathtaking vista: a cluster of velvet-brown cows grazing among wildflowers, with the rugged limestone peaks of the Dolomites in the background. And just as entrancing as the view was the smell of freshly cooked pasta wafting our way from a rifugio, a small hostel, perched along a steep cliff at the edge of the meadow. We were soon seated at a table on the balcony, taking in the view along with one of the best meals we've ever had. That kind of total sensory experience, as much as Italy's better-known artistic and architectural wonders, explains what is so fascinating about the country. For us, a visit to Italy is a lesson in living well. Its centuries-old traditions, from agriculture and cooking to superstitions and proverbs, are still woven into the fabric of modern society. Open-air vegetable and fruit markets, neighborhood bakeries, fresh cheese made daily, clean laundry hung on a line, a leisurely stroll or passeggiata with a gelato in hand, a discussion with a neighbor in the piazza: In many places, these traditions have been discarded as outdated or inefficient, but in Italy they are part of everyday life, even in big cities.
HISTORY Some say that the people of Italy have civilized Europe twice, once in ancient times and again after the Middle Ages. The Roman Empire, born in what is now Italy, ruled portions of Europe, Africa and Asia for almost 700 years (from 202 BC until AD 476, when the western empire fell). Greek ideals and Roman justice were spread throughout the Mediterranean region by the empire's legions. Today, Rome's legal, cultural and scientific legacies endure everywhere. Places as diverse as Japan, Louisiana and Brazil are ruled by modern versions of Roman law, and the Romance languages (including French, Italian, Portuguese and Spanish), as well as scientific terminology, derive from ancient Latin. At its height, Rome controlled lands from the Irish Sea to the Caspian Sea; Roman ruins can be found across a wide expanse, including portions of Great Britain, Morocco, Turkey and Jordan. Italy rose to the forefront of Western civilization again during the Renaissance, when such notable citizens as Galileo, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci made their contributions to mankind. Though it gave Europe a vision of cultural unity, Italy itself only achieved political unity in 1870. Before then, modern-day Italy was a collection of squabbling kingdoms, dukedoms, city-states and papal states often dominated by outside forces. Although currently unified under the government in Rome, the country is still divided into 20 distinct regions, each with its own landscape, history, dialects, artistic styles, foods and architecture. For many visitors, it is Italy's diversity that lends the country its most distinctive charms. In the past 100 years, Italy has gone from monarchy to parliamentary system to fascism to a seemingly unending series of coalition governments-an average of one a year since 1946. The political situation, however, appears to have stabilized a bit in recent years. After a half decade under the leftist Ulivo coalition, there has been a backlash to the right. In 2001, the country voted into power Silvio Berlusconi, the controversial media magnate and leader of the Forza Italia coalition. However, the general shift toward the right (particularly in the north) is not as important as Italy's new obligations to the European Union. Infrastructure, law, labor policies and finance are rapidly being made more efficient in order to comply with E.U. standards.
GEOGRAPHY Italy resembles a boot about to kick a Sicilian "football." One of the most densely populated countries in Europe, Italy is characterized by mountainous terrain. The Alps form a barrier to the north (blocking bad weather more successfully than they ever did invaders), while the Apennines run the length of the boot. Only in the north, in the Po River valley, is there relatively flat land. No place is very far from the sea. To the east is the Adriatic, to the southeast the Ionian and to the west the Tyrrhenian. Italy can seem surprisingly dry and, in the south, a bit dirty and run down in spots.
PERSONAL SAFETY Purse and jewelry snatching and pickpocketing are serious problems in urban areas; necklaces are often snatched by young men riding motorbikes. All we can suggest is this: Leave jewelry at home, use the hotel's safe, wear a money belt and be careful with passports and other valuables. Be especially alert at major tourist attractions and railway stations in Rome, Florence, Milan and Naples. Thieves frequently work in pairs-one diverts your attention while another grabs your bag. You'll often be warned about Gypsies in particular (who may or may not be ethnically Gypsy). You'll find them at every major tourist site, and they can be very aggressive. They're not dangerous, but don't underestimate them: The children, young adults, old women and pregnant women appear helpless, but they are extremely adept pickpockets. The children swarm around you, usually extending a piece of paper or cardboard and making distracting sounds. The cardboard and sounds draw your attention away from your purse or wallet. Other extreme tactics used to distract you include throwing a baby into your arms (once your arms are full, they empty your pockets), or a mother or father violently beating their child in front of you. Our advice is to keep walking and concentrate on holding onto your wallet or clutching your purse shut-they want you to push them away, but if you do, you've given them the opportunity they're looking for. And they'll have quickly passed your valuables to an adult accomplice nearby, so it doesn't do much good to get a police officer after the fact. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency. Canadian Travel Advisory Line-Phone 613-944-6788. Toll-free (in Canada) 800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
SNAPSHOT Culture (modern, old and ancient), fabulous food, historic sites, varied and stunning scenery, beaches, jagged coastline, architecture, skiing, opera, water sports, health and beauty spas, ruins, and shopping for clothing, shoes and designer goods are Italy's primary attractions. Those who want a diverse, fairly informal vacation, who are romantics, and who love art, history and lovely settings will enjoy Italy. The air of blithe inefficiency in some parts of the country may be disconcerting for those who demand the correct, crisp efficiency of northern European countries: In some parts of Italy, timetables are seen more as romantic ideals than as attainable goals.
GEOSTATS Official Name: Italian Republic. Passport/Visa Requirements: Passport needed by Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. No visa required if staying less than three months. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Health Certificates: No vaccinations are required. Contact health authorities for the latest information. Capital: Rome. Currency: Euro. 100 cents = 1 euro. Population: 57,634,327. Area: 116,280 sq mi/301,165 sq km. Languages: Italian. Economy: Industry, tourism, agriculture, fishing. Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic). Government: Republic. Weather: Warm summers and cool to cold winters in the north; hot summers and mild winters in the south. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 06, Rome; 02, Milan; 055, Florence; 041, Venice. Airport Departure Tax: None.
WHAT TO DO THERE ??? AEOLIAN ISLANDS The volcanic islands of Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli and the relatively undeveloped Alicudi and Filicudi lie off the north coast of Sicily. These islands, known to the ancient Greeks as the home of Aeolus, god of the winds, are characterized by their rugged coastlines, violent seas and rich color. The area offers opportunities to scuba dive and snorkel. You'll want to choose which ones to visit based on your personal interests: Each island has its own character. The most popular attraction is the active volcano on Stromboli: The molten lava is spectacular at night. The hike to the top takes three hours, and you're advised not to get too close. (There's a boat trip offshore for those who don't want to hike.) Alicudi is for nature lovers, since there are no roads, no cars and no nightlife: just a coffee bar and a restaurant. Filicudi is also quiet, though more populated and thus a bit livelier. Lipari and Panarea are for those more interested in la dolce vita (the sweet life): they have chic restaurants, discos and shops. (Lipari also has a castle.) On green, fertile Salina, where part of the Oscar-winning film Il Postino was shot, try malvasia, a golden Aeolian wine the locals call "God's nectar." Take a dip in the sulfur pools (yes, they smell like rotten eggs) on the island of Vulcano or hike to the top of its volcano to see the hot air vents, whose edges seem embroidered with sulfur crystals. Ferries to the islands leave from the Sicilian towns of Milazzo, Messina and Palermo as well as from Naples and Reggio di Calabria. 80 mi/130 km northeast of Palermo.
ALPS These mountains offer incredible scenery, great skiing, hiking and other activities year-round. They are generally divided into western, central and eastern regions: We recommend three nights for each. The Western Alps stretch from the Mediterranean along the French border to Switzerland. In the Valle D'Aosta area, visit the Gran Paradiso National Park, 30 mi/50 km northwest of Turin. Monte Bianco (perhaps better known as Mont Blanc, since the actual peak is in France), western Europe's highest peak (15,780 ft/4,810 m), can be seen rising above picturesque Alpine villages. Also visit Monte Rosa (close to the Swiss border, east of Gran Paradiso) and the wonderful year-round resorts of Macugnaga and Alagna. Monte Cervino (The Matterhorn), with the Italian resorts of Breuil-Cervinia, Valtourneche and Chamois, has wonderful views as well. Other area sights include the museums in Turin and the Roman monuments in Aosta. The Central Alps run along the border with Switzerland and Austria, encompassing the towns of Sondrio, Como and Milan. The skiing is excellent in several areas around Sondrio. Don't miss Varese (exquisite scenery and lakes) and the rock carvings in Valcamonica. In the Central Alps, you're practically in Italy's stunning Lake District. The Eastern Alps continue south of the Austrian and Slovenian borders, embracing the towns of Trento, Bolzano and Belluno. This is the area of the Alps known as the Dolomites, and it's truly spectacular. There are a number of particularly beautiful drives in the Dolomites, traversing high mountain passes and providing views of sparkling lakes, gorgeous valleys, charming villages and pastoral meadows. And the hiking in the Dolomites is even better: The trails are well marked, and along many of them you'll find rifugios, or small hostels, where weary travelers can dine surprisingly well or sometimes stay the night. We particularly enjoyed Molveno, which is both the name of a lake and a village in the southern part of the Dolomites, near Trento. In winter, it's a good base for skiing; in summer it's a convenient jumping-off point for hiking. While you're in the Dolomites, see the Alpe di Siusi area; hike to the waterfalls in the Valle di Genova; visit a spa; and shop for handmade wooden toys, sculptures and inlaid-wood souvenirs in Val Gardena.
AREZZO The must-sees of this Tuscan hill town are the churches and their artwork: the Basilica San Francesco (frescoes painted in the 1400s by Piero della Francesca), the Church of San Domenico (Cimabue's Crucifixion) and the Pieve di Santa Maria (the bell tower-something of an emblem for the city-has 40 windows). Arezzo also has several fine museums, among them the Museo Archeologico (located in an old monastery), the home of architect and artist Vasari and the Medieval and Modern Art Museum. Tired of refined culture? Attend the fun antique fair in Piazza Grande, held the first weekend of each month. For a less commercialized version of Siena's Palio horse race, attend Saraceno's Joust, a medieval tournament with lancers on horseback (the first Sunday in September). The giant fortress overlooking town-Fortezza Medicea-is open for tours. 40 mi/65 km southeast of Florence.
ASOLO An artists' town, scenic Asolo sits on a hill overlooking trees and small farms. Walk the narrow streets to see the flower boxes that decorate each house. Visit the museum (it contains writings of Robert Browning, who spent his last autumn there), nearby villas and the Villa Cipriani Hotel (a beautiful 16th-century building-even if you don't stay there, drop by and see it). Also see the nearby Brion Tomb, designed by a well-known modern architect, Carlo Scarpa. We suggest a stay of one night in Asolo. 25 mi/45 km northwest of Venice.
ASSISI Located in the middle of the "boot" near Perugia, Assisi is a well-preserved medieval town and, after the Vatican, Italy's major religious-pilgrimage destination. Located high on a hilltop, it has an air of mystical serenity in keeping with its history. Assisi was the hometown of St. Francis (the founder of the Franciscan order of friars), and the churches and crypt that bear his name draw a steady stream of pilgrims and sightseers every year. Although the town was rocked by an earthquake in 1997, much of the damage has been repaired. One of the most severely damaged buildings, however, was the treasured Basilica of San Francesco, known for its vivid frescoes by Giotto that depict the life of the saint. The upper basilica remains closed, although it is possible to visit the lower basilica and St. Francis' tomb. Other places of interest include the Church of Santa Chiara, a medieval fortress (La Rocca Medioevale), the Piazza del Comune (the old town center) and St. Peter's church. Or just stroll the narrow, picturesque streets and listen to the musicians practicing nearby (though they may be drowned out by construction noises-many buildings are being renovated). You may want to visit during one of Assisi's celebrations: the Feast of Calendimaggio, a three-day coming-of-spring festival with medieval costumes, dances and songs (around the first of May); a month of folklore and musical events in August; or the Feast of St. Francis (4 October), which celebrates the saint's transition from this life into the next. During this two-day festival, the entire town is illuminated by oil lamps. If you are going to Assisi at one of these times, reserve accommodations well ahead of time-the city will be filled with pilgrims. 80 mi/130 km north of Rome.
BARI On the Adriatic coast of Italy, Bari sits in Puglia, Italy's southernmost region. The city is divided into medieval and modern sections. It's usually seen only by tourists boarding ferries for Croatia and Greece, but two nights could be spent sightseeing. Among the sights are the 12th-century cathedral and museum; the impressive Swabian Castle (a conglomerate of Roman and Norman forts, topped off with 16th-century towers); and the 11th-century Basilica of San Nicola (the final resting place for the bones of St. Nicholas, alias "Father Christmas"). Spend time walking the intriguing narrow streets of the medieval section. Not far away are two other attractions. The Castellana Grottoes are a group of limestone caves, 30 mi/48 km south. The Trulli dwellings-ancient, round buildings with conical, stone roofs-are centered in the village of Alberobello, just a few miles farther south of Castellana. The design of these houses is unique to Puglia and cannot be traced to any other architectural tradition. 235 mi/370 km southeast of Rome.
BOLOGNA Many people pass through the city of Bologna on their way elsewhere, which is a shame-we think it merits a stop of at least a day. Sometimes called "Bologna the fat," this city is a great place to indulge yourself: Many consider it to be the gastronomic capital of Italy. Local specialties include tagliatelle, the Bolognese meat sauce called ragu and handmade tortellini. And, yes, the bologna in the sandwiches of your youth was a descendant of a local delicacy, mortadella. In between meals, tour the city. If you're up to the challenge, head first to the symbol of the city, the Due Torri (Two Towers, referred to in Dante's Inferno) and climb the Torre degli Asinelli's almost 500 steps for a great view. And since most of the sights are clustered around the Piazza Maggiore, go there next. Visit the Basilica of San Petronio-while its unfinished facade may not thrill, the enormous interior is worth exploring (don't leave without getting an explanation of the brass meridian line in the floor). Also on Piazza Maggiore are the 16th-century Neptune Fountain and the Museo Morandi (in the Palazzo Comunale), which houses more than 200 works by 20th-century painter Giorgio Morandi. To experience the well-preserved medieval town center, walk in the small streets east of the piazza and along Strada Maggiore. Bologna is also home to Europe's oldest university, where Dante and Petrarch, amongst other notables, studied. Our favorite thing to see there is the old, wooden Anatomical Theater, where medical students observed dissections. While in the area, visit the Pinacoteca Nazionale, which has an excellent collection of Italian Renaissance art. For a little bit of nature, head to the Giardini Margarita, the city's much-used public park. Porticoes line just about every street in the city. If you're feeling adventurous, you can follow the longest arcaded walkway in the world up into the hills outside Bologna to the Shrine of the Madonna di San Luca. If you go both ways on foot, you'll have walked about 6 mi/10 km. Perhaps because of the university, Bologna is a convivial city and has much to offer in the way of nightlife. We particularly like the wine bars called cantine. Most have simple wooden tables, occasional live music, light snacks and fine wine lists. Some of the oldest cantine in Italy are to be found in Bologna, some dating to the 13th century. A few miles northwest is the town of Modena, which has an impressive 28-ft/88-m Ghirlandina bell tower. Modena is also the home of tenor Luciano Pavarotti and the Ferrari and Maserati auto companies. 50 mi/80 km north of Florence.
CAPRI Once infamous as the "Island of Sin," the Isle of Capri is now simply a very desirable place to visit and a romantic spot for honeymooners. For centuries, it was a retreat of sorts. Pirates hid their loot there, and Emperor Tiberius used to hold orgies on the island. (East of town are the ruins of Villa Jovis, where he spent the last, debauched years of his reign. Read Robert Graves' I, Claudius to get an idea of what went on.) These days it's a retreat for the young jet set and assorted Hollywood celebrities. Don't expect lush tropical scenery. But do expect Old World charm, gorgeous grottoes and silver- and rose-colored cliffs plunging straight into clear, blue water. Also expect superb restaurants, good shopping, water sports, castles, churches, wonderful streets in which to stroll and some of the highest prices in Italy. The main village on the island, where most of the shops and restaurants are found, is also called Capri. It is very chic to have an after-dinner drink in the famous piazzetta, the small square in the center of town. Higher up in the hills is another village, called Anacapri, from which you can take a chairlift to the summit of one of the highest peaks on the island to enjoy the wonderful view over the sea and the Bay of Naples. Also in Anacapri is the beautiful Villa San Michele, which houses the art collection of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe. (Read his wonderful autobiography, The Story of San Michele, for a good introduction to the island and the special significance of the villa itself.) Visit and swim at the justly famous Blue Grotto and the Natural Arch. It is also possible to tour the lesser-known grottoes of Capri by hiring a fisherman's boat from Marina Piccola. Although there are no sandy beaches on Capri, there are thin rocky strips at Marina Piccola and at the Faraglioni (picturesque rock formations off the eastern tip of the island once used by the Romans to hold beacons for sailors). At both places you can lie out on the rocks and swim safely. Even though the people (called Capresi) have seen many tourists come and go, you'll find them surprisingly nice and helpful. Capri is informal, but not that informal-bring a coat and tie if you plan to dine in the nicer restaurants. And, while there are topless beaches, total nudity is not generally accepted. The best months to visit Capri are May, June and September. In July and August, the island tends to be overwhelmed by tourists, foreigners and Italians alike, especially the huge tour groups. The island can be seen on a day trip from the mainland, but two nights are preferable. If you've already been to Capri, consider heading to its lesser-known but equally captivating sister island, Ischia. Both islands can be reached by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples or Sorrento. 15 mi/25 km south of Naples, in the Bay of Naples.
ELBA Reached by ferry from Piombino (a 15-mi/24-km trip), Elba is one of seven Tuscan Archipelago islands in the Mediterranean. Adequate roads make touring relatively easy. Elba has more than 50 beaches, thousands of pine trees, beautiful reefs, mountains (3,000 ft/915 m high) and archaeological ruins. The major town on the island, Portoferraio, a 16th-century walled city, lies in the middle of the northern shore. Elba was Napoleon's home during his first exile; be sure to see the library at his residence, Palazzina dei Mulini, which overlooks the ocean. From Portoferraio, take the cable car up the mountain to the Villa of San Martino, Napoleon's summer residence, which has artifacts and displays on his life-and a great view as well. Up to a week could be spent on the island touring, snorkeling and relaxing. The island is so overcrowded during summer, however, that water shortages often occur. 80 mi/130 km southwest of Florence.
FERRARA Many of the streets in the walled city of Ferrara are lined with elegant palaces. Unfortunately, what are perhaps the most beautiful parts of the city, the courtyards and gardens hidden within, aren't accessible for the most part. In the center of town, you can explore a few rooms in the striking Castello Estense, once the home of the Este dynasty, which ruled the city from the 13th to the 16th century. The castle's moat is intact, water and all, which is somewhat unusual. You can also visit its prison, where in 1425, Duke Nicolo d'Este had his young second wife and his son beheaded because he found out they were lovers (the story inspired the Browning poem "My Last Duchess"). Nearby is the Duomo, which has a gorgeous and very intricate facade. Our favorite of Ferrara's several museums is the Pinacoteca Nazionale (with paintings by the Ferrara School of artists). It's housed in the Palazzo dei Diamanti (Palace of Diamonds), which gets its name from the 12,500 pieces of diamond-shaped marble that make up its facade. Make sure to do as the locals do and take a walk on the ramparts surrounding the city-there are walking paths and even parks with trees up there. 55 mi/90 km southwest of Venice.
FLORENCE Florence is one of the most beautiful cities in the world; for many people, it is the most splendid. Its palaces, churches and museums brim over with paintings and sculpture, and this combination of unequalled beauty with centuries of history is a heady mix. As a result, Florence often overwhelms its visitors. Your first glimpse of the Duomo is likely to take your breath away, and you may have a hard time regaining your composure after viewing a dizzying succession of other monuments. The spirits of Leonardo da Vinci, Dante, Boccaccio, Michelangelo and the Medicis are palpable on virtually any street, and the days of the Renaissance seem close at hand. Yet Florence is still essentially a proud, provincial town, with a conservative mentality. You sense that its citizens pay a certain price for living in an open-air museum. Don't be surprised if you find the Florentines a bit cold and standoffish. In fact, those who deal with the masses of tourists are often the least cordial. But among the Florentines are many who will offer the visitor a warm smile and helpful gesture. And the vitality of this small city, the robustness of its cuisine, the enduring beauty of its architecture and the richness of its treasures will always educate, exhilarate and dazzle those who visit. Visitors rarely allot enough time for Florence, partly because until you've been there, it's difficult to comprehend how much there is to experience in this city. Any visit to Florence, brief or extended, should begin with the magnificent Duomo. Don't be content with a picture of its stunning exterior: Go inside and gaze at the frescoes and admire the view from the top of the cupola. Afterward, check out the exquisite detail in the famed bronze doors of the adjacent Baptistery. Florence's second-most-striking landmark is probably the Palazzo Vecchio. This trapezoid-shaped building on Piazza della Signoria still functions as city hall. Take a tour and learn the reason for the palace's unusual dimensions. The most celebrated art museum in the city is the Uffizi Gallery, which has 13th- to 18th-century Italian and European masterworks-paintings by Botticelli, Hugo van der Goes, Titian, Rubens, Caravaggio, Raphael and Rembrandt, among others. The line at the Uffizi can get so long, it's definitely worth looking into making advance reservations. Another fabulous art museum is the Bargello, with its impressive collection of medieval and Renaissance sculpture, including Donatello's Marzocco-the lion symbol of Florence. The Accademia is chiefly known for housing Michelangelo's David, although his many other sculptures there would be worth the visit in and of themselves. Cross the Arno on the Ponte Vecchio, which has spanned the river since 1345. The bridge still has shops and rooms jutting out over the sides-a common feature in the Middle Ages, although few examples remain today. Sights on the other side of the Arno include the Palazzo Pitti, the archetype of all European royal residences and one of the best preserved, with beautifully decorated rooms and the gorgeous Boboli Gardens on the backing hillside. Be sure to see the Palazzo's Palatine Gallery which contains 16th- and 17th-century paintings by Raphael, Titian, Veronese, Rubens and Van Dyck in stunning baroque interiors. The fully furnished Royal Apartments date back to the last kings of Italy. Don't confuse the Palazzo Pitti with the Medici Palace by Michelozzo on Via Cavour or the Medici Chapels, which are connected to the Church of San Lorenzo-both are well worth a visit in their own rights. Because Florence isn't a sprawling, metropolitan city, its entertainment options are limited, with the exception of classical music. Jazz and ethnic music are slowly catching up. A noteworthy classical presentation is the annual Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, which offers the best in opera, concerts, ballet and film, with participants from all over the world. It begins in May and ends in June. Major internationally recognized pop and rock bands frequently stop in Florence during their tours. English-language theatrical productions are rare, with the exception of a top-notch touring version of an American musical every now and then. The season for all sorts of local music, dance and theater starts in November and ends in May or June. The exception is opera season, which starts in September and ends in December. Early summer evenings are tranquil as Florentines and visitors alike stroll the narrow streets, an ice-cream cone in hand, or sip aperitivi or iced tea in the piazzas. While there are places to go as night falls, the town never really gets hopping. There's not a big local nightlife scene, and tourists are often too pooped to play. If you do go out, you may notice a surprising number of U.S. and other foreign students out and about at night. Visiting students (who are numerous in Florence) head to the city center for their fun, while Florentine youths often avoid it because of parking hassles. If you are looking for a place to go for a few drinks in the evening, start walking around the city and listen for U.S. accents-they'll be heading somewhere or can point you in the right direction.
GENOA In the center of the Italian Riviera, Genoa is an industrial port city that's a little rough around the edges. Before making headlines during the G8 conference in 2001, it was known primarily as the birthplace of Columbus-you can visit his tall, Gothic home there. The city has numerous piazzas, churches, a medieval inner city, Renaissance buildings, a big aquarium and a large port (rebuilt in 1992 as a part of the 500th anniversary of the voyages of Columbus) that serves as the departure point for many of the luxury cruises of the Mediterranean. However, it is a typical poor port town, and the areas near the water are filled with seedy bars and dodgy characters. Unless that's your bag, your time will be better spent elsewhere. 75 mi/120 km south of Milan.
GUBBIO Perched on a hillside in Tuscany, charming Gubbio has changed little since the Middle Ages. Its steep cobblestone streets, portals, fountains and beautiful views of the countryside below are simply beguiling. Be sure to visit the Piazza della Signoria and the 14th-century Palazzo dei Consoli. Every year on 15 May, Gubbio holds the traditional Race of the Ceri (Candles): Men race through the streets carrying enormous wooden poles (the "candles") with statues of saints balanced precariously on top. During the summer, classical plays are performed in the well-preserved Roman amphitheater. 75 mi/115 km southeast of Florence.
ISCHIA Nearly every superlative used to describe the island of Capri applies to its sister island of Ischia (also located in the Bay of Naples), although Ischia is larger, with more traffic and even some smog at times. Ischia is probably best known for its hot springs and spas: A day at the Poseidon Gardens spa, with its multiple pools of varying temperatures, may be just the thing to soothe a weary traveler. Ischia also has some charming towns, including Ischia Ponte, located just below an Aragonese castle, which has lots of pleasant shops selling ceramics and clothing. A hike up the spent volcano Monte Epomeo will reward you with a breathtaking view: On a clear day, you can see as far away as the islands of Ventotene and Ponza. Another sight worth seeing is the beautiful Santa Maria di Loreto church. And try roasted wild rabbit and wine from the mountain village of Panza. For an interesting side trip, visit the sleepy nearby island of Procida: Linger in a harborside cafe and watch the boats come in at the fishing village of Coricella, where much of the film Il Postino was shot. Elsewhere on the island, you can visit Vivara, a nature preserve that served as hunting grounds for royalty (open only during the summer). Ischia is 18 mi/29 km southwest of Naples, in the Bay of Naples.
ITALIAN RIVIERA Also known as Liguria, this region of Italy, an extension of the French Riviera, is dotted with mountains, villages, small and often secluded beaches (sandy to rocky), a wide range of hotels, entrancing scenery and remarkable culture. Visit several beaches and towns in the area: Each is different. Genoa sits right in the middle of the Riviera, and we think concentrating your time on parts south of there is a wise idea. Ritzy Portofino is on one of the most attractive sections of the Italian Riviera, southeast of Genoa. It has mountains, clear bays, thick evergreen forests, a national park and divine villas. Several weeks could be spent exploring this charming area alone. Rather than staying in Portofino, however, we recommend nearby Santa Margherita Ligure (a favorite of wealthy yachters) or Rapallo, as Portofino's bay is so small and the access road to town is very narrow. In summertime, expect lots of people waiting in line to find a spot to park their cars. Farther south lies the Cinque Terre, which is an excellent hiking area with a trail that leads through five traditional coastal villages not easily accessible by car (they're best reached by train or boat, if not by foot): Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (which produces a fine white wine), Vernazza (a picturesque fishing village) and Monterosso (which fronts upon a long beach). The trail that links the villages hugs seaside cliffs and traverses vineyards and olive groves. You can always hop on the train that connects the region to La Spezia (to the south) and Levanto (to the north) if the hiking becomes too tiring. And if you have a little extra time, there are a number of lovely small medieval churches on the hillsides overlooking the villages. Even farther down the Ligurian coast, on a rocky peninsula, the tiny town of Portovenere has narrow, colorful houses that climb up a hill from the sea. It's fun just to walk the narrow streets. The coast is rocky, but you can swim in a series of coves or take day trips to the nearby islands of Tino and Palmaria. The southern end of the Italian Riviera is 50 mi/80 km west of Florence.
LAKE DISTRICT Very near the Swiss border, the Lake District includes Lake Como, Lake Orta and Lake Maggiore, offering a truly exquisite setting of mountains, lakes, hills, villas, abbeys and towns. We suggest no fewer than three nights in the area. In the town of Como, on Lake Como, visit the Torre del Comune monument, the Duomo (a fine Gothic-Renaissance cathedral) and the 13th-century Broletto (once the city hall). Among the interesting small towns around the lake are Tremezzo and Piona. There are nice resort facilities at Bellagio, another small town on the edge of both Lake Como and Lake Lecco. Nestled between Lake Maggiore and the Alps, Stresa is the largest town on that lake. Originally a rustic village where the locals made umbrellas, it has become, in this century, a popular summer resort. It may appear slightly on the rundown side, but the ambience and scenery more than compensate. You'll find good restaurants and cafes, shopping, parks, palm trees, pretty flowers and the garden and zoo at Villa Pallavicino. From Stresa, three small Borromean Islands nearby can be reached by boat-allow time to see the 17th-century baroque palace and grottoes on Isola Bella; the botanical garden on Isola Madre; and, on the (more rustic) Isola Pescatore (Fisherman's Island), the cobblestone streets, handsome church and numerous cats. The town is also famous for its Settimane Musicali (a summer musical festival). Take along a sweater even during the summer, as nights can be quite cool in the area. Stresa is 40 mi/65 km northwest of Milan.
LUCCA The birthplace of Puccini is a lovely walled city. It's famous for its olive oil and has become a favorite spot for artists and writers. Walk along the ramparts and down the medieval streets, stopping at the 14th-century cathedral Duomo San Martino to see Nicola Pisano's Descent From the Cross. Although you can see Lucca in half a day, you may want to linger to soak in its tranquil atmosphere and enjoy the many fine restaurants. Every August Lucca hosts the Puccini Music Festival. 40 mi/65 km west of Florence.
MILAN From the rooftop of the Duomo, you can see the graceful porticoes and ornate friezes of medieval Milan fade into the sharp lines and angles of the modern city. It's a subtle change, but a clear reminder that Milan isn't just a relic from the past. It's a bustling, forward-looking city whose fashion sense and robust economy drive northern Italy-if not the entire country. Often called the least Italian of the country's cities, Milan doesn't draw the tourists that tend to overrun Rome, Florence or Venice, particularly in the summer months. But once you've strolled its narrow downtown streets and visited its spacious suburban parks, we think you'll find its blend of old and new quite appealing. Yes, it's a big-business city, with hundreds of banks and corporate offices. But the city also has plenty of attractions-including its many-spired cathedral, a world-renowned opera house and dozens of smart designer boutiques-to keep you busy for a few days, if not a full week. The major landmarks of Milan can be seen on foot. In fact, most are within a stone's throw of Piazza Duomo, the heart of Milan. So start your exploring with the Duomo itself (and its museum), then plan some short walks from there. Heading north from Piazza Duomo, through the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (built in 1865 as one of the world's first indoor shopping malls), you'll come to Piazza Scala, home of the famous La Scala opera house. Montenapoleone, Milan's premier shopping and design area, starts just a few blocks up Via Manzone from La Scala. Or if you head north on Via Brera, you'll encounter a chic area of renovated ancient buildings, where quaint cafes and coffee bars draw Milan's young and hip crowd. Stop at the enormous Pinocateca di Brera, one of the city's most highly regarded art galleries. Walk northwest from Piazza Duomo on Via Mercanti, which becomes the pedestrian-only street Via Dante, leading to Castello Sforzesco, home to the Renaissance rulers of Milan. The castle now contains a museum where you'll want to spend some time. A few blocks west from Piazza Duomo is the Pinocateca Ambrosiana, a small but important gallery with an attached library containing historical writings. Farther west is the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, which houses Leonardo da Vinci's masterpiece, The Last Supper. The famous La Scala opera house is currently closed for renovation and is expected to reopen in 2004. The opera will continue in the interim at Teatro Degli Arcimboldi in northern Milan. The Milanese also enjoy classical concerts, and music performances are held in churches and small halls throughout the city. Look for wall posters and check out the entertainment guides to find these small but sometimes excellent shows. Thanks to its ties to the fashion and design industries, Milan has a vibrant nightlife scene. The city's young professionals work hard during the day and play even harder at night. The Brera is full of bars and restaurants that cater to the upscale crowd, while the Navigli is more bohemian, with funky bars and nightclubs that attract artists and musicians.
NAPLES Although it's a fairly dirty port city, Naples has always impressed travelers with its beautiful bay and setting. Nearby Mt. Vesuvius forms the backdrop to the city and bay. Naples is home to Pulcinella (the ancestor of Punch and Judy), the Great Caruso and pizza. It has benefited in recent years from an energetic mayor who has instituted a number of tourist-friendly programs, including closing off a number of piazzas to vehicular traffic, extending museum hours and cleaning up the main port of Molo Beverello, where boats leave for the nearby islands. Not to be missed are a walk through the historic center, where you'll see the church of Santa Chiara and its gorgeous majolica-tiled cloister; the chapel of San Saero, with its superb marble statuary; the beautiful 16th-century church of San Giacomo degli Spagnoli; and the street of San Gregoria Armeno, where craftspeople create the famous Neapolitan creche figures. Naples has several museums that are worth a visit: the National Archaeological Museum (Roman murals, coins and pottery, much of it from nearby Pompeii), the Museo Nazionale di San Martino (sculpture, glass, etc.), the Museo Nazionale della Ceramica (pottery) and the Museo and Galleria di Capodimonte (works of the Renaissance and baroque masters-note the impressive ceiling). There are also several castles of note (including Maschio Anguino, Castel dell'Ovo and St. Elmo) and two royal palaces (one at Piazza Plebiscito, where you can visit the royal apartments, and another at Capodimonte, where you can see a good museum and walk the manicured grounds). Unfortunately, the city does merit a few words of warning. Pickpocketing and purse snatching are rampant. Do not wear flashy jewelry, carry much cash in your wallet (or even carry a purse or wallet at all, for that matter) or wander around after dark. And we don't recommend driving in Naples, as it can sometimes be a scary experience. If you do decide to bring a car into the city, make sure you leave nothing of value in it, not even in the trunk. Break-ins are common You could easily spend up to two nights touring Naples, although it can be seen on day trips if you're staying elsewhere on the Sorrento Peninsula. For most people, no trip to Naples would be complete without a trip to Mt. Vesuvius, Pompeii and Herculaneum. Just north of Naples in the town of Caserta, you'll find an impressive Bourbon palace built in the 1700s to rival Versailles. Nearby is the medieval town of Caserta Vecchia, which has an 11th-century castle and a 12th-century cathedral. Take time to walk through the ancient streets. Also nearby are the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. Naples is 105 mi/185 km southeast of Rome.
ORVIETO Located in an important wine-producing region of Umbria and built high on a rocky precipice, Orvieto is best known for its Gothic cathedral (note particularly the gabled facade). Also see the town square and the Pozzo di San Patrizio, and try some of the justly famous white wine. During late March, Orvieto hosts the world-famous Umbria Jazz festival. If you have time, tour the caves that run underneath the town. Orvieto is a good place for a lunch stop on the road from Rome to Perugia, Assisi or Florence. 60 mi/95 km north of Rome.
PADUA Just a few miles west of Venice, Padua was one of the locales in Shakespeare's The Taming of the Shrew. Its attractions include a 13th-century university, what's thought to be the oldest Italian clock (the clock tower at Palazzo del Capitano) and various other old and picturesque buildings. If you've lost anything, then you're in the right city: St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost things, is also the saint of Padua. Every year thousands of pilgrims flock to the Basilica del Santo to pray, in the hope of recovering whatever they have lost. Look for the frescoes by Giotto in the Scrovegni Chapel. Padua is best seen as a half-day trip from Venice. 20 mi/30 km west of Venice.
PERUGIA The capital of Umbria, Perugia is a beautiful hill town and important city for Umbrian and Tuscan art. Visit the National Gallery (works by Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca and Perugino) and the 13th-century marble and bronze Maggiore Fountain. The chapel in Piazza San Severo has frescoes by Raphael and Perugino. See also the Piazza 4 Novembre (town square) and the Palazzo dei Priori (town hall), then walk the town's old streets. There's a well-preserved Etruscan arch that was once part of the medieval fortifications on the northern side of town. The Carducci Gardens offer a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. Allow at least half a day for the city itself. Perugia would also make an excellent base to explore the surrounding region by car. Assisi, Gubbio, Orvieto and Urbino are all close by. 85 mi/135 km north of Rome.
PISA The 14th-century Romanesque Leaning Tower is, of course, Pisa's main attraction. During the 1990s, the instability of the tower made it necessary to close it to visitors. Fortunately, an extensive program to rebalance the tower has been successful in slowly righting the structure, and it's even said that at a certain point the tower will actually return to its original vertical position. While this might lessen the charm of the tower, the other option was to watch it tumble to the ground. In the meantime, the tower and its 294 stairs are once again open for climbing. The Campo dei Miracoli, a large, grassy square next to the tower, is a pleasant place to relax. While in Pisa, also be sure to visit the Romanesque cathedral and the Camposanto Cemetery. Should time permit, stop at the 16th-century church and Palazzo dei Cavalieri, the piazza and the National Museum of San Matteo (excellent collection of 12th- through 15th-century art). We also suggest taking a taxi to the Church of San Michele degli Scalzi to see the other leaning tower of Pisa: Completed in the 13th century, this seldom-visited tower is worth a look, even though it's not as impressive as the famous one. It's also fun just to walk around Pisa. The city is very compact, with many narrow streets and a great ambience. We suggest seeing it on a day trip from Florence, perhaps in combination with Lucca, just 13 mi/20 km northeast. Another possible stop is Pistoia, which has a cathedral and baptistery in the Pisan-Romanesque style and the Ceppo Hospital (L'Ospedale de Ceppo), which has a brightly painted terra-cotta frieze. If you want to see it all in one day, get up very early. 40 mi/65 km west of Florence.
POMPEII On the southern outskirts of Naples lies Mt. Vesuvius, the volcano whose eruption in AD 79 covered Pompeii and Herculaneum (Ercolano) with tufa stone and volcanic mud. The cities remained covered until the 1700s, when a farmer discovered Pompeii while digging a well. The two cities (reached on the Circumvesuvio railway) give you a real grasp of what life was like in the Roman Empire-they are exceptionally well preserved. Pompeii was a city of 20,000, and in the summer it can be exhausting to see it all, so we recommend using a guide or a guidebook in order to focus on the highlights. You should begin your tour in the Forum (central town "square"), surrounded by temples, triumphal arches, shops and a basilica (courts of law). Stroll through ancient paved streets (complete with stepping stones at each intersection), stopping at several houses or shops along the way. (Especially notable are the frescoes and central garden of the House of the Veii.) Note that the ancient Pompeiians, like modern Italians, liked to scribble graffiti on public walls. Also worth seeing are two theaters, a bakery (the cones inside were parts of grinding stones) and the arena (a smaller counterpart of Rome's Colosseum). Join the crowds gawking at the racy frescoes in what was the city's bordello. If it's open, tour Pompeii's museum, which features everyday artifacts and spooky plaster body casts of residents who didn't get out in time. We particularly liked the Villa dei Misteri, which is outside the main area-be sure to leave enough time to get there. Nearby Herculaneum is similarly organized (central forum surrounded by living quarters and public spaces), but less crowded. Though smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is better preserved (look for the statue of a drunken Hercules and a blue-green mosaic of Neptune and his wife Amphitrite). With its height of 4,189 ft/1,277 m, Mt. Vesuvius obviously dominates the area. You can admire it from afar, or if you're so inclined, you can make a trip to the top. A road goes most of the way up the still-active volcano (buses make the trip several times a day), but there's a steep 20-minute hike from the end of the road to the rim itself. Pompeii is 20 mi/30 km southeast of Naples.
RAVENNA Located on the Adriatic midway between Venice and Florence, Ravenna is best known for the wonderful mosaic decoration of its churches and tombs, relics from its Byzantine past. In particular, the mosaics at the Tomb of Galla Placida, the Church of San Vitale, the Baptistery and the Basilica of St. Apollinaris are among the most interesting in all of Europe. They are famous for their striking and varied colors, as well as for their symbolic meanings (Dante mentioned them in his Divine Comedy). The city produces modern mosaic artists, too, at Ravenna's School of Mosaicists. Be sure to see Dante's tomb, located in the Church of San Francesco (he spent the last years of his life in Ravenna after being driven out of Florence). The city honors the epic poet with a literary and theatrical festival in September. Ravenna is not to be missed-work it into any trip that includes nearby Bologna, Rimini, San Marino or Urbino. 70 mi/115 km south of Venice.
RIMINI This crowded beach-resort town on the Adriatic in northeastern Italy is part of a coastal recreation area that stretches 70 mi/120 km north-south, from Porto Garibaldi to Cattolica. Through the 1950s, Rimini served as the main seaside resort for the Emilia-Romagna region. It still has wide sandy beaches, fishing, hot springs, mud baths and water sports, but today it's best known for its unparalleled nightlife. Late June-September, thousands of young Italians flock to spend their days sleeping on the beach and their nights in the wild discos. These are among the largest nightclubs in the country and are filled to capacity with flamboyantly dressed revelers. The atmosphere is of the highest toleration, permitting and promoting open displays of homosexuality and transsexuality. Unfortunately the tolerance also extends to the abuse of drugs and alcohol, which is common throughout the nightlife scene. If you make it out during daylight hours, be sure to see the Arch of Augustus (one of the oldest Roman triumphal arches in the world), the Tempio Malatesta (beautiful Renaissance architecture) and the Roman Bridge of Tiberius. Florence, Bologna and Venice are within a few hours' drive. The Republic of San Marino is just 15 mi/25 km west of Rimini: Plan a half-day excursion there. 95 mi/155 km south of Venice.
ROME Rome has an almost gravitational pull, attracting, in addition to travelers, some of the most creative artists and thinkers of every era. All that surrounds a visitor in Rome-the stunning art and architecture, the terrible traffic, the grandeur of scale and even the lively (almost hyperanimated) citizens-guarantees an unforgettable visit. If you had only one day in the city and visited St. Peter's or admired the panorama from the top of the Spanish Steps at sunset or walked around the Colosseum to catch a glimpse of the Forum from the gates, you'd well understand why Rome is called the Eternal City. Bustling, beautiful Rome, sprawling among seven hills, is fascinating for both its ancient and its modern wonders. This is not to say that everyone will like it: Some people are put off by the city's untidiness and seeming disorganization. But we think it's important to see the significant sights-after that, you'll either never go back or you'll plan your return journey on the plane home. The city is a great open-air museum with a high concentration of monuments, churches and artwork. But even the smallest courtyard hidden in the narrowest streets typically holds a tiny but significant detail-a decorated sidewalk, fresco or fountain. To get the most out of your visit, you'll need to walk...a lot. Before setting off, stop by one of the information kiosks that dispense maps, brochures and advice in several languages. And be forewarned: Hours of museums and historic sights sometimes change without notice. Start in the historic heart of the city, called Centro Storico. That's where you'll find the Imperial Forums, including the Roman Forum. Nearby are the Arch of Constantine, the Colosseum and Circus Maximus. Exploring the area from the Forums to Piazza del Popolo is like taking a course in European art history: You'll pass the facades of noble palaces and churches and stroll through elegant squares. Along the way, be sure to visit the Pantheon. Once you make it to Piazza del Popolo, take time to enjoy the green expanse of nearby Villa Borghese. The park is home not only to umbrella pines but also to three world-class museums: Galleria Borghese, Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna and Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia. The palaces around Piazza del Campidoglio, which make up the Capitoline Museum complex, are also worth visiting. World-famous examples of Christian art and architecture are contained in St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums, across the Tiber in Vatican City. The nearby medieval district of Trastevere has one of the oldest churches in Christiandom, Santa Maria in Trastevere. The district itself is a great place to stroll, dine or shop. Back across the river, on the right bank, the Jewish Ghetto is another medieval area full of ambience. If time permits, you can also visit the Catacombs of San Callisto or, invariably, one more church. Rome's greatest strength in the performing arts is perhaps its prose theater, but almost all offerings are in Italian. Rome's opera standards are also high, and dance companies, both classical and modern, perform to packed houses. When it comes to classical music, Rome is not another London or New York in terms of the sheer number of concerts, but the city's halls and musicians do maintain high standards. Concerts are also presented in churches and historic sites. Performing-arts schedules are advertised in local papers and billboards, and advertisements posted on buildings in Centro Storico announce upcoming performances. Nearby Cinecitta has served as the studios for some great Hollywood epics and for Italian directors like Fellini and Rossellini, and Rome taps into the tradition with an large supply of cinemas, including several that screen movies in their original language. Fellini's La Dolce Vita depicted a lifestyle of savoring the city's sidewalk cafes and nightclubs-and we think this portrayal is still very accurate today. A typical night out in Rome begins with a late dinner (around 10 pm), followed by the giro (literally, "to go around"). This involves strolling through the piazzas of the city and stopping for coffee, gelato or a drink at a local pub or enoteca (wine bar). Nightclubs remain virtually empty until about 1 am. The majority of bars close at 2 am, with nightclubs closing around 4 am. However, this only means they close the doors. People already inside are permitted to stay until dawn, or even later. Nightspots are present throughout the city. Centro Storico offers a wide range of bars, primarily filled with tourists. Trastevere is the spot for locals and students, with literally hundreds of bars and restaurants, dozens of movie theaters and a few nightclubs-it's the best place to go if you don't want to take a lot of taxis. Most of the nightclubs are in out-of-the-way corners of the city. The Testaccio area near the Piramide Metro stop is one exception. That's where you'll find the best dance spots in Rome, as well as a good number of bars and late-night restaurants. The city's live-music scene gets hopping late, with everything from South American rhythms to jazz. Keep in mind that most bars don't accept credit cards, so bring cash for the evening's entertainment.
SAN GIMIGNANO One of the most charming and picturesque of all the Tuscan hill towns (and that's saying a lot), San Gimignano is noted mainly for its medieval towers. They dominate the town in the way that skyscrapers dominate modern cities. At one time there were more than 70 towers (built as symbols of wealth and as a security precaution by the town's prosperous merchants), but only 14 remain today. Walk through the wonderfully preserved town square, the Piazza della Cisterna, and visit the 13th-century town hall, the Palazzo del Popolo. There are good views from the Rocca citadel, and the entire town is a great place to stroll and soak up the atmosphere. It takes quite a bit of time to get there from either Rome or Florence, so we suggest that you spend at least one full day and night there. That way, you'll also get to see the town after the day-tripping tourist hordes have left. Another option is to stay in nearby Volterra, with its Etruscan ruins and vertiginous views from high on a forbidding hilltop. 25 mi/40 km southwest of Florence.
SARDINIA When approaching the island of Sardinia by boat, you'll be impressed by the colors in its rocks-black from basalt, silver from granite, red from porphyry. A very striking island, Sardinia has had great historic and strategic importance: Every Mediterranean power has controlled the island at one time-Romans, Phoenicians, Spaniards, even a pope. Present-day Sardinia is a favorite vacation spot of Italy's extremely wealthy (which explains Sardinia's high prices). The island has a multitude of attractions: wild horses, flamingos, nun seals, great fishing, mountain climbing, Roman ruins, sailing, reef diving, waterskiing, grottoes (the best is Grotta Nuova, near Cala Gonone on the east coast), and uncrowded sandy and rocky beaches. Must-sees include the pink sand at Porto Ferro, the typically Sardinian town of Nuoro, Oristano (ruins of the Phoenician city Tharros), the Goddess of Fortune Temple in Porto Torres, Cagliari (the largest city on the island, with a good archaeological museum) and Su Nuraxi Nuraghe (an impressive Nuraghic fortress, 40 mi/60 km north of Cagliari). The town of Olbia is the gateway to the Emerald Coast (Costa Smeralda), one of Europe's most important (and expensive) resort areas. It contains sites that span 3,000 years of history. Shop for exquisite lace, wood carvings, carpets and bitter honey (harvested during autumn when the only flowers blooming contain bitter pollen). For dinner, try the traditional Sardinian dish, porceddu (roast suckling pig). If you are looking for something more exotic, order uova di ricci (raw sea urchin eggs) or bottarga (salted and dried fish eggs, often grated over pasta). A good alternative to renting a car is to circle the island by boat over the course of two weeks, stopping in the small towns and coves along the way. If you're not yachting around the isle, plan a minimum of three nights. 150 mi/240 km southwest of Rome.
SATURNIA This small hilltop village and its nearby spa are located halfway between Rome and Florence (west of Orvieto, in Tuscany). Saturnia is known for its thermal springs (Terme di Saturnia) and the attendant resort complex. It's a good place for those who have lots of time and want to relax, take the treatments and explore the surrounding countryside. This southern part of Tuscany is less heavily touristed, which can be a welcome break. 75 mi/120 km northwest of Rome.
SICILY Sicily is a mountainous, arid island-an extension of the Apennine Mountains separated from the mainland by the Straits of Messina. Many powers have occupied this strategically important area: Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Phoenicians and, of course, the Mafia. Historical sites related to those powers are part of the island's attraction. (A Mafia tour visits sites of various Family activities and the graves of infamous godfathers and victims.) But there are many other reasons to visit Sicily: water sports, beaches of rock and sand (including black sand), natural beauty, good food and friendly people. For touring, the island can be roughly divided into the north-shore and south-shore areas. The north shore has reefs, olive groves, secluded coves and countless seaside resorts, including Cefalu, a gorgeous Arab-Norman city with good beaches. Also on the north coast is Palermo, the ancient capital and the island's largest city. Be sure to visit the central market and 12th-century Monreale Cathedral, which is 6 mi/8 km west of town (it has impressive mosaics). About 50 mi/80 km west of Palermo lies the ancient village of Erice, atop a mountain: It still has remains of a temple dedicated to Venus. Be especially on guard against street thieves and pickpockets in Palermo and other large towns.) The southern coast has an even milder climate, so there's swimming most of the year (although it can get cold there November-March). Among the areas not to be missed are Agrigento (to see the Valley of the Temples); Acireale (to see puppets); and Taormina (a distinctive, beautiful town perched on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean). Mt. Etna (10,902 ft/3,323 m) is an active volcano on the east coast-its crater is difficult to reach, so bring a guide and dress warmly. (In April 1987, two people were killed when Mt. Etna erupted. Although it can erupt at any time-most recently in July 2001-deadly incidents aren't common.) There are great ocean views from the mountain and it's possible to ski there in winter. You can also drive the 120-mi/200-km route around its base to see a wide variety of scenery. Among the ancient Greek and Roman ruins on the island are the Taormina Greek theater and San Domenico Monastery near Messina, the Greek theater in Syracuse, the 5th-century BC Temple of Concord in Agrigento and the Casale Armerina (a jewel of a Roman villa with wonderful mosaics) in the town of Piazza Armerina, near Enna. It's possible to visit various island groups that surround Sicily. The Aeolian Islands lie off the northeast coast, the Egadi Islands to the west and the Pantelleria Islands and Pelagian Islands to the south. Although rarely visited by North Americans, the Pelagian Islands are interesting: They offer a vacation that's nearly Arab, with one exception-many of the uncrowded beaches are topless or nude. There's enough on and around Sicily to keep you busy for eight days. 250 mi/400 km south of Rome.
SIENA In scenic hill country just south of Florence, this picturesque, well-preserved medieval town lies in the Tuscany region. A bitter competitor with Florence for much of its history, Siena is a treasure trove of art, pageantry and architecture. Visit the wonderful black-and-white Gothic cathedral (don't miss the magnificent Bernini statue of Mary Magdalene hidden away in a niche or the dazzling mosaics on the floor) and tour the Palazzo Pubblico (for its impressive frescoes). You can climb the Torre del Mangia for a nice view over the city. If you're there at the beginning of July or in the middle of August, try not to miss the world-famous Palio horse race. A tradition dating from the Renaissance, it takes place in the Piazza del Campo, a marvelous, sloping plaza in the shape of a half-shell whose circumference is topped on race day with a layer of dirt to create a track. Bright costumes, crowds, parades and the horse races themselves make for a fascinating spectacle. If you want to see the race, get there early and bring food, lots of water and some protection from the sun. (You'll need to buy tickets ahead of time to get a decent viewing place in the stands, but the center of the Campo is free. The downside is that you can get trapped there for several hours while guarding your place.) The crowds will be tremendous and the conditions cramped, but in our opinion, the race is worth it. The weeks leading up to the Palio are also full of parades and feasts in the contrade (districts) that sponsor the race and which sport their own heraldic mascots (you can buy Palio flags with each emblem). Although most people only stay one night, two nights wouldn't be too long, especially if you're there during the Palio. 35 mi/55 km south of Florence.
SORRENTO PENINSULA About 20 mi/32 km south of Naples, this area is one of the most romantic and beautiful in Italy. The peninsula (especially the Amalfi Coastal Drive) is spectacular. Begin in Castellamare (at the northern end) and continue to Minori, on the southeast coast (or vice versa). It's only 40 mi/64 km, but en route you'll find secluded beaches, reefs, citrus groves, clear blue water, exquisite scenery, excellent restaurants and a hair-raising, narrow cliff road along the seaside. (Local residents truly drive as if they're crazy, so be prepared-and don't drive at night.) There are some nice towns on the way (best seen by parking and walking through them). Sorrento is a gardened resort on cliffs overlooking the sea, where you catch the ferry to Capri or Ischia. In Amalfi, visit the impressive Paradise Cloister and Gothic Arsenal. Amalfi has exceptional crystal-blue water, almost Caribbean in quality. An early morning swim there with the sun on the mountainside is quite an experience. (There's even an ice-blue cocktail-practically undrinkable-served at the Hotel Santa Caterina in honor of the water.) Also visit Ravello (see the Villas Cimbone and Ruffolo-once the home of composer Richard Wagner), Atrani (fairly deserted; see the Santa Maria Madalena Church) and Positano (beautiful resort with gardens and villas overlooking terraced hillsides about 19 mi/30 km from Naples). Capri can be seen in the distance from outside Punta Campanella, at the western end of the peninsula. A week in the area isn't too much: You can take day trips into Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Paestum (Greek temples), Capri and Ischia. Some hotels are closed from November to April. 130 mi/210 km southeast of Rome.
SPOLETO A charming Umbrian hill town, Spoleto is best known for the Festival dei Due Mondi (Festival of Two Worlds), an annual international music and arts show. Begun by Gian Carlo Menotti in 1958, it includes performances of opera, dance, concert and film. Spoleto is a beautiful town in itself, with winding streets and ancient architecture (Roman stonework forms part of many buildings). Just on the other side of an old prison and hilltop fortress is a spectacular gorge-cross the brick footbridge for a breathtaking view. 60 mi/95 km northeast of Rome.
TODI A medieval hill town in Umbria (near Orvieto), Todi is a collection of meandering narrow streets, churches and squares. See the Santa Maria della Consolazione church, the Piazza del Popolo and the views from the remaining portions of the city's ramparts. From late March to mid April, Todi hosts the Italian Antique Exhibition-antique furniture, ceramics, paintings and carpets-in the 13th-century Palazzo Comunale. Todi is best seen if you're spending a lot of time exploring hill towns in this area or if you're taking a leisurely pace on your way from Rome to Florence. Don't go there if you're in a hurry or if it's at the expense of time spent in Perugia or Assisi. 60 mi/95 km north of Rome.
TRIESTE In a scenic setting near the Slovenian border (on the northeastern coast of Italy), this seaside city has been transferred between Italy and Slovenia for centuries. This Slavic influence distinguishes Trieste from other cities in Italy. Man-made attractions include Romanesque churches, a Roman theater, a 16th-century castle and museum and the Museo di Storia e Arte (a collection of coins, art and other exhibits). It's an excellent stopover point for those heading to the east, and the perfect gateway to the brilliant coast of Croatia. It's a bit out of the way for those not continuing on to Croatia, but if you are in the area it deserves at least a day, if not two. 75 mi/115 km northeast of Venice.
TURIN Italians say that Turin, the major city in the western Alps and home of automaker Fiat, seems more French than Italian. The wide boulevards set up in a grid pattern, along with the 19th-century architecture, do bear more resemblance to Paris than Florence. A stroll about the city center provides architectural enthusiasts examples of Renaissance, baroque, turn-of-the-century and modern buildings. And the Egyptian Museum has one of the largest collections of Egyptian antiquities in the world. Also of note are the Royal Armory (excellent ancient art), the cathedral (home of the Holy Shroud), the Palatine Gate (built by Emperor Augustus), the Valentino Castle and the Galleria Sabauda (collection of Masters art). You could also tour one of the car factories. The city has enough of interest to justify a one-night stay, but no more. 80 mi/120 km southwest of Milan.
URBINO A wonderful city for art lovers, Urbino is just inland from the Adriatic coast (south of Rimini and Ravenna). The town is noted for its Renaissance Palazzo Ducale, which contains the National Gallery of the Marches, featuring important works by Raphael, Santi and Barocci. Also worth seeing is the Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista (frescoes by the Salimbeni brothers) and Raphael's home (the artist was born in Urbino and lived there as a boy). Get a great view from atop the city's ramparts. Like many of the small towns in Tuscany and Umbria, Urbino is quite isolated-allow extra time for the drive there along winding roads. Once there, plan at least a half-day visit. 70 mi/110 km east of Florence.
VATICAN CITY Although Vatican City is independent, it's completely surrounded by Rome. This home of Roman Catholicism must be seen. It begins on the Tiber River and stretches west (about 3,935 ft/1,200 m long and 2,625 ft/800 m at its widest point). The first building seen from St. Peter's Square is the largest church in the world, St. Peter's Basilica. The highlights include many baroque statues by Bernini as well as his ornate baldachino over the central altar, Michelangelo's Pieta and the oldest statue of St. Peter in existence (whose foot has been worn completely smooth over the centuries by pilgrims who have rubbed it for good luck). Plan at least three hours in St. Peter's: After walking around inside, be sure to go to the roof for the view (it's usually hazy, so you might just want to go up there for the pretty sunsets), visit its museum and see the grotto below (where St. Peter and other popes are interred). Other Vatican sights include the Apostolic buildings, beautiful gardens, the Piazza St. Pietro and the Vatican museums. To many, the highlight of the museums is the Sistine Chapel, whose ceiling, painted by Michelangelo, has undergone a controversial restoration that revealed colors much brighter than seen previously. But the museums offer much more: The Etruscan and Roman collections are among the finest and most extensive in the world; the Raphael Stanzas are a series of spectacular frescoed rooms; the Gallery of Tapestries and Maps details the Earth as it was thought to be in the 16th century; and the Museum of Modern Religious Art has works by Rodin, van Gogh, Matisse, Kandinsky, Gauguin and others from the 19th and 20th centuries. The buildings (except for St. Peter's Basilica) usually let visitors enter 8:45 am-1:30 pm, with weekday hours extended mid March-October until 3:45 pm. Galleries remain open for about an hour after the entrance doors are closed. With so much to see in a limited time, you may want to see the Vatican over a period of two mornings, saving St. Peter's for the afternoons. The museums are closed on Sundays except for the last Sunday of the month, when entry is free (and the crowds are huge). Hours do change and visitors sometimes arrive to find the museums closed-we recommend confirming the times so you won't be disappointed. On Sundays, the pope gives a sermon from his apartment window. He holds his audiences on Wednesdays (except in August when he vacations in Castel Gandolfo, just south of Rome). To reserve a place, contact the Office of the Audiences, Casa Santa Maria, Via dell'Unita 30, 00187 Rome. Phone 39-6-686-8553. Fax 39-6-679-1448. If possible, include a recommendation from your local priest. Tickets can be picked up on Tuesday 3-9 pm at the Casa Santa Maria (located near the Trevi Fountain). For best viewing of the Vatican's art and museums, traditional wisdom holds that you should get in line before opening hours and steel yourself for tremendous crowds. Since this is everybody else's strategy as well, you may find shorter lines 11 am-2 pm. Regardless, summertime crowds are always very large. No passport is needed to enter the Vatican, but they do have a very strict dress code. Shoulders, midriffs and knees must be covered, or you will not be permitted inside any of the buildings. The euro has replaced the Italian lira as the Vatican's currency. As in Rome, beware of thieves and pickpockets, who prey on tourists.
VENICE Everywhere you look in Venice there's an archetypal romantic scene: a short bridge arching over a canal, a gondola gliding by, the moon reflecting off the water. Its winding, narrow streets can be eerily quiet and mysterious, particularly on a foggy night. Without a city's usual traffic noise, you can hear the laughter of children from your window. Set on islands connected by bridges, Venice's main street-the Grand Canal-is traversed by an assortment of watercraft, from rowboats to yachts to cargo vessels. During Carnevale, its waterfront is lit by torches at night as colorfully masked and costumed revelers overrun the city's ancient palaces and public squares. No wonder Venice is one of the most-visited cities on the planet. But just because you'll be bumping into thousands of other visitors there, don't be fooled into thinking it's just a museum of architecture and art. We were delighted to see Venetians chatting with friends in the piazzas and sharing a bottle of wine in the osterie. The city does have its share of problems, too. It is, famously, sinking-and no one can agree on what should be done about it. The population is declining: Many young people have moved to the mainland, where rents and real estate prices are lower. Parts of downtown are dirty and run down (and rather smelly in summer heat); people can be brusque and the prices of virtually everything smack of highway robbery. Even so, it remains a treasure to be savored-and not just by lovers. The best introduction to Venice is a boat ride on the Grand Canal, and it doesn't really matter whether the vessel is a velvet-cushioned gondola or a utilitarian vaporetto (public water bus). The S-shaped canal slices the city in half, and lining each side are an astonishing collection of buildings dating back to the 12th century. Some of the baroque palaces look as elegant as they did when the doges ruled the city, while other architectural gems are crumbling into the murky sea. As you travel along Venice's main street, you'll also see what life is like in a city without automobiles. Cargo barges ply the narrow waterway along with police and fireboats. Classic, wooden cabin cruisers take tourists to luxury hotels, while skilled gondoliers serenade lovers as they negotiate the sleek black vessels under bridges and around bends. Venice's canals are a visual parade that shouldn't be missed. Once you have an overview from the water, set out on foot. Pick up a map, but expect to get lost-it's an inevitable part of the experience. Streets meander across canals, through plazas and around buildings, changing names as well as direction. If that isn't confusing enough, some close in the winter because of high water. You'll want to spend most of a day seeing the sights around St. Mark's Square. The Doge's Palace offers a fascinating look at how the city's leaders lived and managed the republic, while the colorful religious mosaics at St. Mark's Basilica are some of the most stunning in the world. Take in the view from the top of the Campanile if it's a sunny day. (Beware of the plaza's most aggressive residents-pigeons delight in dive-bombing unsuspecting newcomers on the ground.) From the square it's an easy walk to the Rialto Bridge, where you can browse the shops and enjoy canal views in both directions. Across the Grand Canal from San Marco is Dorsoduro, where you'll find two very different museums. The Gallerie del'Accademia is the city's signature art repository, containing the best works of the prolific Italian Renaissance painters. A few blocks away but worlds apart is the Guggenheim Collection, a canal-front palazzo that was fashioned into a modern and avant-garde art gallery by an American heiress. A host of other sights-from the Jewish Ghetto to the city's many ornate churches, along with the islands of Murano and Burano-should be visited, as many as your time allows. But we caution you to use your time well: A moonlit walk along the canal or an early morning stroll through the winding streets of a secluded residential area can prove just as illuminating as a tour of the city's major attractions. The city's performing-arts offerings are extensive. Highlights are Italian opera, Vivaldi's music, Goldoni's theater and Commedia dell'Arte (the traditional theater genre dating to 1500). After the fire at the famed Teatro La Fenice, a temporary tent theater on the island of Tronchetto went up. Called PalaFenice, it is host to opera performances as well as various big concerts. Both the Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista host classical-music concerts, while the Chiesa di San Bartolomeo and Scuola di San Teodoro have performances geared more toward tourists. The season at the Teatro Carlo Goldoni is October-April, but English-language pieces are almost unheard of. Dance performances are held at PalaFenice and Teatro Fondamenta Nuove. If it weren't for the city's university students, Venice's streets would be empty after dinnertime. The city is not known for having a stellar nightlife. Most discos and movie theaters are on the mainland, which is within easy reach via bus or cab. But you aren't completely without options in Venice itself: A number of small bars and pubs stay open late, serving food and drink. Called bacari, they are similar to osterie elsewhere in Italy, serving snacks (called cicheti locally). There are a few clubs to choose from, and many little bars have begun offering small-scale jazz or Latin music shows.
VERONA About midway between Milan and Venice lies Verona, the setting for Shakespeare's plays Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentleman of Verona. And as it should be, Verona is one of the most romantic cities in the world. It's not merely that you're reminded everywhere of the Shakespeare connection. (The Capulet house, with Juliet's famed balcony, is a big tourist attraction, though its authenticity is dubious.) And it's not just its gorgeous setting, surrounded by mountains and the River Adige. And neither is it just because of its magnificent Roman ruins and its mellow medieval and Renaissance buildings. Put it all together, and you get a town that has an incredible amount to recommend it. The city is full of music, and its piazzas and streets are particularly lively during the annual summer opera festival, held during July and August in the Roman Arena. Opera lovers should make this a high priority (but reserve early, a year in advance, if possible). During our last visit, we attended a performance of Tosca at the arena one night and a performance of the ballet Romeo and Juliet the next night at the smaller-but equally atmospheric-Roman amphitheater. Also visit the 14th-century Castelvecchio (displays of Venetian painters and works of gold), the medieval and Renaissance Piazza dei Signori, the pink marble Piazza delle Erbe and some of the churches (don't miss the bronze door on the Church of San Zeno Maggiore or Titian's Assumption in the Duomo). Northwest of Verona is scenic Lake Garda, Italy's largest lake, with its Roman ruins and 12th-century castles. Although some of its towns have gotten a bit overbuilt (tourists pack the area in August), there are still some lovely little villages along its shores, including Malcesine and Torri del Benaco. At the upper end of the lake, in a truly spectacular setting, is the trendy, upscale Riva del Garda. On the southern shore, at the end of a slender peninsula jutting into the lake, is Sirmione, with quiet cobblestone streets, thermal baths, a castle, olive groves and Roman ruins. Ferry and hydrofoil services are available on the lake. Lake Garda is a nice place to relax for at least a night-and a possible base for attending the opera in Verona if hotels in the city are booked. Verona is 90 mi/140 km east of Milan and 65 mi/100 km west of Venice.
VICENZA About midway between Padova and Verona, Vicenza has wonderful architecture by Andrea Palladio (it was his hometown). See the impressive Basilica in the Piazza dei Signori and other Palladian buildings along the Corso Palladio. Also visit La Rotonda, a Palladian villa admired by Goethe (who said that "the art of architecture [had] never reached such a magnificent standard before"). It's worth half a day there to stroll its medieval streets and see the Italian and Flemish art in the Museo Civico. About 15 mi/25 km north of Vicenza is Marostica, a walled medieval town with a black-and-white checkerboard pattern town square (Piazza Castello). Once a year (in September), the town holds a living chess match: Citizens dress in 15th-century costume and become chess pieces on the black and white squares. Legend has it that the first such game was held by one of the town's noblemen to help determine which of two suitors should win his daughter's hand in marriage. 38 mi/60 km west of Venice.
SHOPPING Shop for leather goods (in Florence and Milan), silks (Como), truffles (Rome), antiques, clothing, wood carvings, embroidery, silver and gold jewelry, violins, objects of marble and alabaster, glass (Venice), decorative paper (Florence and Venice), food products, and wine or liqueur. Also fun to buy are ingenious kitchen utensils/accessories. In Vatican City, look over Vatican postage stamps and a wide variety of religious products (including relics-among the items for sale are lockets containing small pieces of Pope John XXIII's clothing). Clothing, both men's and women's, is often of high quality and trend quotient. Custom-made suits can be good buys, and many people consider shoes the best thing to take home from a trip to Italy. Shopping Hours Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1 pm and 3-8 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm. Banking Hours Monday-Thursday 8:30 am-4:30 pm, Friday 8:30 am-2 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm.
DINING Italians are quick to tell you there's no such thing as Italian food. Rather, each city or region has its own distinct cuisine. In the north of the country, you'll find risotto, polenta and cream sauces that are not at all native to the south. And the south offers spicier foods, the original pizza recipe and buffalo mozzarella. Always try the specialties of a region-they are often absent from menus elsewhere, or of a lesser quality. In Tuscany, for example, one generally finds more gamey foods, such as pheasant (fagiano), wild boar (cinghiale) and truffles (tartufi). You can't visit Genoa without trying real pesto, traditionally served with a mixture of pasta, potatoes and green beans. Roman food is typically less refined with plates like spaghetti carbonara, bucatini all'amatriciana (pasta with a spicy tomato-and-bacon sauce) and trippa (tripe), which, if cooked well, can be delicious. Many visitors are already familiar with Parma's famed prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. For spicy food try anything from Reggio di Calabria, but in particular the ultra-hot salami. Sicily, the birthplace of Italian pasta and gelato, has synthesized the culinary traditions of the many different cultures that have passed through the island. Overall, Italian chefs continue to remain faithful to seasonal produce, which is one reason everything tastes so good. As prosaic as it may sound, one of our favorite meals is pizza and ice cream. Check out where the locals eat and join them for lunch or dinner at a pizzeria. The standard tomato-and-cheese variety is called a margherita, but there are so many more choices, you'll want to try a few. Then take a walk around the block, gelato in hand. It is, in and of itself, a reason to visit the country. Wine in Italy is excellent and comparatively inexpensive. Two categorizations that are helpful to know are D.O.C. (denominazione d'origine controllata, meaning that it has been inspected and guaranteed by the government) and vino da tavola (table wine). Wines and spirits with the D.O.C. label are generally of superior quality, but table wine is usually very, very drinkable and is sometimes preferable. Red wines are made just about everywhere, while the Piemonte and Veneto regions in the north are better for white wine. Nice local wines, which evoke the place they're made, include Chianti Classico Riserva, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Orvieto Classico, Pinot Grigio and Montepulciano d'Abbruzzo. Stop by an enoteca (wine shop and bar) in any major city and you will find bottles from all over the country and knowledgeable clerks to help you. In an enoteca you can also pick up some of Italy's unique liqueurs. Besides amaretto, which is primarily from the north, other popular choices are limoncello, a sweet, lemon liqueur made in the south around Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi and on the island of Capri; amaro, a bitter liqueur produced thoughout Italy; and grappa, a stronger digestivo (digestive liqueur) made in several regions. There are three categories of restaurants: From most expensive to least, the classes are ristorante, trattoria (more of a home-cooking style) and osteria. Eat a meal in each category-just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's bad, and each has its own atmosphere. To eat like an Italian, have a nearly vaporous breakfast in the morning (consisting of cappuccino or espresso and a pastry, eaten standing at a neighborhood bar), a normal lunch around 1 pm (restaurants close from 3 pm until dinnertime, so don't wait) and a full dinner at night (often not before 9 pm).
WEATHER We prefer going from mid April to mid June or mid September to the end of October, when the days are usually in the 70-80s F/20-32 C, with nights in the 50-60s F/10-20 C. July, August and the first half of September are generally quite hot (high 90s F/34-37 C), humid and very crowded with tourists. The winters in the north are chilly-50s F/10-15 C or colder in the day and much colder at night (often below freezing). In the south, winters are milder, but you'll still find it too cool to lie on the beach or too drizzly to tour happily. The best time to drive the Amalfi Coast is May to mid June and mid September to mid October, when there are fewer cars on the road. Bring a sweater for evenings year-round.
TRANSPORTATION Most major airlines serve Rome's international airport (FCO), called both Leonardo da Vinci and Fiumicino, located 15 mi/24 km southwest of town. (Hourly train service links the airport to Stazione Termini, the main train station in town, making it convenient to make connections to other Italian cities.) Milan's Malpensa airport (MXP) lies 30 mi/48 km from the city center; Linate (LIN), the other Milan airport, is only 6 mi/10 km from the center. Florence residents use two airports: Amerigo Vespucci (FLR), which is 3 mi/5 km north of the city, and Galileo Galilei (PSA), which is 2 mi/3 km south of Pisa. Several airlines join major cities in Italy with frequent flights. Cruise lines include Italian ports on their Mediterranean, European and around-the-world itineraries. The main port near Rome, where a number of lines dock, is Civitavecchia. Ferries link the Italian mainland with many of its islands and several other Mediterranean countries. Those bound for Greece leave from Brindisi or Ancona and take one or two days. A number of high-speed hydrofoils have cut down the travel time to closer destinations-for example, the trip from Naples to Palermo takes four hours, and from Rome/Civitavecchia to Sardinia only a bit longer. You can drive into Italy from France, Switzerland or Austria, but be certain that the mountain pass you've selected is open; many close during the winter. If you're driving to Italy from Switzerland, take the Simplon Pass (40 mi/65 km), a scenic Alpine route that winds through snowpacked mountains and glaciers to the warm vineyards of Italy's Val d'Ossola. For travel within the country, we think using the rail system is a very good alternative to driving-getting behind the wheel in Italy can be harrowing, especially in Rome, Milan and Naples. Excellent rail service connects most cities, and ticket prices are very reasonable. The larger Italian cities often have multiple train stations, one of which is the primary one. Most trains go to the central station, but always check to make sure so you won't be in for any unpleasant surprises. If you're using the system a lot and traveling only in Italy, consider an Italian Rail Pass as an alternative to the more costly Eurail Pass (contact the Italian State Railways, 666 5th Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10103). For the first-time visitor who isn't used to traveling or driving in foreign countries, we recommend an escorted tour. Return visitors wishing to get out of the big cities and into the countryside may decide a rental car is the way to go. If you rent a car at Rome's Leonardo da Vinci airport or Milan's Malpensa airport, you are eligible for a free towing service (ask at the airport for more information). Buses are sometimes handy for getting around town and for making day trips from major cities. When taking taxis, be aware that fares often increase on weekends and holidays, after 6 pm Monday-Friday and if you have baggage, so ask prior to getting in. Also, be certain that the taxi has a working meter-and that it's used. Note: Strikes and work stoppages seem to be the national sport in Italy. Lest you worry too much, rail and bus strikes (while frequent) generally last only a day or two, and pilots or air-traffic controllers seem to limit their work actions to a few hours in the morning.