European powers began vying for colonial control of India in the 1600s, with the British eventually gaining the upper hand. They ruled most of India until after World War II, when a movement led by Mahatma Gandhi and others finally won independence. As the British exited, the region was partitioned into predominantly Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan. The 1947 Partition provoked the greatest exodus in human history as a total of 10 million people changed sides, Muslims fleeing west toward Pakistan and Hindus and Sikhs traveling east toward India. Terrible mob violence-between 250,000 and 500,000 people would be slaughtered before the Partition was complete-set the scene for 50 years of mutual hostility and suspicion. Three major wars have been fought between the two countries, and troops continue to fire at each other over the border. Constant threats of incursion and sabotage have led both countries to expend large proportions of federal resources on their military. Even more worrying, both countries now posess nuclear weapons.

India has made great strides in other areas, though. It has remained a democracy-despite its turbulent and often violent politics, including the assassination of two prime ministers-and economic development has been impressive. The 1990s saw the government abandon decades of economic isolation and welcome foreign investors. As a result, advanced service industries such as computer-software development have blossomed, though rising prices have proved unpopular, especially with lower-paid workers. Despite huge and visible problems facing the government, India remains one of the most accessible destinations in the developing world.

For tourism purposes, India is often divided into two regions: the north, which includes Delhi and Kolkata (Calcutta); and the south, which includes Mumbai (Bombay), Chennai (Madras), Bangalore and much of the nation's coastline. (The culture, cuisine, languages and customs are noticeably different in each region.) Within those regions, each state also has its own identity, formed around an ethnic group.

India will appeal to naturally curious and adventurous travelers (some experience in travel in developing countries will be helpful for those going off the beaten path). For first-time visitors, we recommend escorted tours or well organized itineraries, with previously arranged guides and accommodations in each city. Expect to experience hot weather, severe poverty and unexpected delays or schedule changes. Don't expect deluxe accommodations if you find yourself outside urban or tourist areas.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, visas, proof of onward passage and sufficient funds required of Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. (Passport must be valid for at least six months after arrival.) Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure. There are no provisions for obtaining visas upon arrival.

Capital: New Delhi.

Population: 1,014,003,817.

Languages: Hindi, English, 14 other official languages.

Predominant Religions: Hindu, Islamic, Christian, others.

Time Zone: 5.5 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+5.5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 91, country code.

The crowning glory of the city is obviously the Taj, a monument of love and imagination, that represents India to the world.

The Taj Mahal stands serene and awesome, on a raised marble platform, by the banks of the Yamuna, testifying to the timelessness of art and love. Its pure white marble shimmers silver in the soft moonlight, exudes a shell - pink glow at dawn, and at the close of the day, takes on the tawny, fiery hue of the majestic sun.

Shahjahan built the monument in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the 'lady of the Taj', who died giving birth to their 14th child. It has been called the most extravagant monument ever built for the sake of love. The construction of the Taj commenced in 1631, and was completed in 1653. Workers were gathered from all over the country and from Central Asia, and about 20,000 people were recruited to translate this wild dream into a reality.

The main architect was Isa Khan, who was brought all the way from Shiraz in Iran. After he was deposed and brutally imprisoned in the Agra Fort, by his son Aurangzeb, Shahjahan spent the rest of his life looking wistfully at his wife's final resting place, just across the river. The Taj remains a symbol of eternal love where the heart - broken Shahjahan was subsequently buried, re-united finally with his beloved Mumtaz.

Among the other monuments that Agra takes pride in is the Agra Fort, built by three of the greatest Mughal emperors. The construction of this massive structure began in 1565, under Akbar, and continued till the time of his grandson, Shahjahan. Armed with massive double walls, punctuated by four gateways, the fort houses palaces, courts, mosques, baths, gardens and gracious pavilions within its premises. Among the fascinating structures that are to be found within the fort is the red sandstone Jehangiri Mahal built by Akbar for his Hindu queen, Jodhabai, was one of the earliest constructions illustrating the fort's change from a military structure to a palace. The palace is also notable for its smooth blending of Hindu and central Asian architectural styles. The Diwan - i - Am, the Diwan - i - Khas, the Khas Mahal, the Palace of Mirrors, the Pearl mosque, the Nagina Masjid, the Garden of Grapes, and the Fish Pavilion are the other monuments in the fort complex.

Delhi is divided into two parts. The old Delhi or Delhi was one of the capitals of Muslim India between the 12th and 19th centuries. Old forts, mosques and monuments related to India's Muslim history are located here. New Delhi is the imperial city which was created as the capital by the British. It is spread over a wide area and is lined with imposing boulevards.

Delhi is a major travel gateway into India. It is one of India's busiest entry points for overseas airlines and is on the overland route access across Asia.

Adjacent to the City Palace is the Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728. Jai Singh's passion for astronomy, was even more notable, than his prowess as a warrior. The Jaipur observatory is the largest, and the best preserved of the five observatories he built. The others are in Delhi, Varanasi and Ujjain. The observatory at Mathura, has now disappeared.

Located in the Ram Niwas gardens, in the south of the old city, is Central Museum, which houses portraits of the Jaipur Maharajas, a collection of costumes, and woodwork from various parts of the state, and other miniatures and artworks. There is also a zoo, and an art gallery, located in the Gardens.

Around Jaipur - There are a lot of attractions near Jaipur, and on the Jaipur - Amber road. About 11 kilometres out of Jaipur, Amber was once the ancient capital of Rajasthan. The Amber Fort is a stunning piece of Rajput architecture.

The Cenotaphs of the royal family are at Gaitore, 6.5 kilometers from Jaipur, on the road to Amber. Opposite the Cenotaphs, is the Jal Mahal Palace, in the middle of a lake, and reached by a causeway. Nahargarh Fort is 6.5 km away, and is floodlit at night. Jaigarh Fort, built in 1726, is within walking distance of Amber.

About 50 km north of Jaipur, is the small village of Samode. The beautiful Samode palace, located in the village, is worth a visit. Other places of interest to the tourist are, the Temple of Sun God at Galta, Sisodia Rani palace and gardens, Vidyadhar's garden, Balaji and Sanganer.

The national and state government emporium stores have high-quality items, but prices are usually a bit higher than elsewhere and you can't bargain. Bargaining is the name of the game almost everywhere else: Depending on the product, you may want to offer one-third to two-thirds of the initial asking price and take it from there. Remember that haggling for a good price takes time. When buying name-brand items, be careful-copycats abound. Any item more than 100 years old is classified as an antique; you will need an export license to take it home.

It's true (as you'll be told by gem dealers) that you can buy gems to take home for profit, but you can also get burned-only attempt it if you know a lot about gems. It's usually best to avoid any vendors selling animal-derived objects-tiger skins, elephant horns-because trade in most animal products is illegal. If you are dead set on obtaining such merchandise, the Indian Tourist Office strongly suggests that you insist on seeing the permission to sell any animal products and make sure to take a receipt.

If you see a brand-name product in unexpected places (a Gucci bag from a street vendor or a U.S.-brand candy bar), it may not be legitimate. Counterfeit and copycat goods are not just aimed at tourists-Indian residents are also wary. We had always wondered why the Indian toilet paper, A-One, carried the warning Beware of Imitations until we accidentally picked up a roll of A-Won brand, which had nearly identical packaging.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. In established markets, shopping hours usually stretch on till night falls. Because markets differ in which days they close, it's sometimes a good idea to double-check with locals before going to one.

Even those afraid of spicy food will love the mild chicken tandoori or Kashmiri-style dishes or, in Kerala, fish flavored with coconut, ginger or fruit. Any dish prepared in the Kashmiri-style will be delicate and have lots of fruits and nuts (in Kashmir itself, find a restaurant offering a wazwan, a traditional feast containing as many as 17 meat dishes). Pakoras (fried vegetable fritters) also provide an easy introduction to Indian cookery. Samosas are breaded, fried vegetable triangles. Dal, an Indian lentil soup, can be found anywhere, and if the name of a dish has the word paneer in it, the dish contains cubes of compressed cottage cheese (it's better than it sounds). Dum aloo is a wonderfully spicy potato dish found in the north. Buff refers to water-buffalo meat, and mutton is usually goat. The breads are superlative-there's none better than naan (baked in a tandoori oven), but do try papadum, a wafer-thin lentil-flour bread, at least once.

For dessert, try kheer (rice pudding). Fruit lassis are a yogurt-based drink that can be very refreshing; curd, a very mild yogurt, is often served with meals. We generally advise against eating from street stalls, unless the food is freshly cooked before your eyes. Indian food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand only. In addition to Indian foods, Western and Chinese restaurants abound. Beware of ice cream and dairy products except at the finest hotels. If you're in an area where you don't trust the food but are really hungry, buy a package of the ubiquitous glucose biscuits, a bland (but safe) cookie. Steamed rice cakes, known as idli, are available almost everywhere and are considered the lightest and safest meal for sensitive stomachs.

Beware of vendors selling soft drinks that are not normally available in India (whatever's in those bottles, it's not what it says on the label). Don't accept ice in your drinks, except from the absolutely finest hotels-the water that goes into the ice might not be so good. Some states prohibit the sale of alcohol. If you want to drink liquor everywhere you go, get an All India Liquor Permit when you get your visa (or from the Government Tourist Offices in Mumbai, Calcutta, Delhi or Chennai).