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GREECE
At the ancient site of Delphi, where the Greeks once consulted the Oracle about the future, there's a small round sculpture. It's known as the omphalos-the cosmic belly button. The Greeks believed that Delphi was the very center of the world-the place where it all came into being. Indeed, the roots of so much of what we take for granted in the modern Western world came into being in Greece-drama, art, philosophy and science.

It's a heady feeling to walk on stones that may have been trod by Plato, Homer or Agamemnon. But at many places in Greece, where ancient ruins are surrounded by the noise and smells of too much traffic, or where pristine island beaches are packed by topless sunbathers, it's apparent that the influence works the other way as well: Greece, it sometimes seems, has been overtaken by the modern world it spawned.

The trick for travelers in Greece is to find the golden mean-in this case, the balance between environment and history, between crowds and quiet, between ancient and modern. With a bit of planning (and maybe a query to the Oracle), you can find beautiful settings that can soothe your soul, while centuries of art and history invigorate your mind. And very likely, you'll be as charmed by the Greek people as you are by their landscape. During our last trip, we learned the Greek shortcut to communication-dancing. Growing frustrated with our attempts to speak in rudimentary Greek, an elderly Greek woman in a small island village grabbed us by the arm and began dancing. It was late at night, and we whirled around the terrace by moonlight, barriers dropping by the second.

HISTORY

The impact of ancient Greece on the Western world can't be overstated. The rediscovery of Greek classics of philosophy, science and literature in the 14th and 15th centuries had a profound influence on the development of Western thought, leading Europe out of the dark ages to the Renaissance. The effects of those revelations are still with us today. The notion of democracy, the concept of the atom, the image of the Earth as round, the scientific method itself-all these and more had their birth in the writings of ancient Greece.

Though its recorded history goes back thousands of years, modern-day Greece was shaped largely in the past several centuries. The Ottoman Empire took control of Greece in the 15th century and governed until 1821 when the War of Independence began. A monarchy, installed in 1832 under Prince Otto of Bavaria, was abolished and reinstated twice during the 20th century before the last king was ousted by a 1974 referendum, when a military junta that took power in 1967 was also booted out. That year, the nation finally returned to democracy, a concept that was born there two and a half millennia earlier.

It's important for first-time visitors to know that although many of the temples and archaeological sites are well preserved or have been restored, others are in near-total ruin. Initially, travelers should stick to the best-known sites. Once they've become acquainted with Greek history, they will find visits to even the poorest ruins to be rewarding.

GEOGRAPHY

The landscape of Greece is surprisingly varied, ranging from the cool, wetter mountainous regions of the northwest and the coastal hills of the Peloponnese to the plains of Macedonia and the sun-drenched, rocky islands that lie off the coast in three different seas. Off the western coast, in the Ionian Sea, are the Ionian Islands (Cephalonia, Corfu, Ithaca, Lefkada, Paxi and Zakinthos). Islands off the eastern coast, in the Aegean, include the Dodecanese Islands (Kalimnos, Kos, Patmos and Rhodes), the Cyclades (220 islands, including Antiparos, Delos, Ios, Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini, Siros and Tinos), and the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Skyros). Just off the the southern coast are the Saronic Islands (Aegina, Poros and Hydra). The island of Crete, however, with the warmest weather in Greece, lies far to the south, in the Mediterranean-it's often referred to as Europe's southeasternmost border.

SNAPSHOT
Beaches, historic sites, modern and ancient culture, striking scenery, spas, islands, cave exploration, charming people, casinos, yachting and shopping are among the main attractions of Greece.

Nearly everyone will love Greece. It's a relatively inexpensive destination with diverse attractions. The country will especially appeal to travelers who love history, philosophy, sailing, beaches and quaint villages. Don't expect lush tropical scenery around the beaches (Greece is quite arid) or a wide variety of international foods, although the offerings have improved considerably in Athens and other primary tourist centers.

GEOSTATS
Official Name: Hellenic Republic.
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passport only needed by Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens for tourist or business visits of up to three months. Entry may be refused if passport indicates travel to northern (Turkish-governed) Cyprus. Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure.
Health Certificates: Yellow-fever certificate required if you're arriving from an infected area. Contact health authorities for latest information.
Capital: Athens.
Currency: Euro. 100 cents = 1 euro.
Population: 10,601,527.
Area: 50,962 sq mi/131,992 sq km.
Languages: Greek
Economy: Industry, agriculture.
Predominant Religions: Greek Orthodox.
Government: Presidential parliamentary republic
Weather: Temperate.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 30, country code
Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in April through the last Sunday in October.

WHAT TO DO THERE ???

AEGINA

The largest island in the Saronic Gulf and easily reached from the mainland, Aegina is usually seen on a full-day cruise from Trocadero or Piraeus (some trips also include the islands of Hydra and Poros). The boats arrive at Aegina's main port and town of the same name.

We recommend taking the tour of the 7th-century-BC Temple of Aphea (Aphaia) Athena to see the Doric architecture-it's one of the best-preserved temples in Greece. If you're not touring the temple, be sure to visit the museum (which has, among other things, a stele, a small sphinx and a fine ceramic collection) or just walk around the bay. During your stroll, note all the pistachio trees for which the island is known. Buses provide service to most historic sites, but we prefer to tour by horse-drawn carriage or rented bicycle. 20 mi/30 km southwest of Athens.

ANTIPAROS
Antiparos, one of the Cyclades Islands, is often seen as a day trip from the island of Paros. The island has good snorkeling, a nice little village and a cave filled with stalactites (the cave is closed in the afternoons). 100 mi/160 km southeast of Athens.

ATHENS

A visit to Athens can be a dream come true-or a nightmare. Usually, it's a little of both. The wonderful views of the coast from the Acropolis can be obscured by terrible pollution. At times the horn honking and bustle of downtown will drive you crazy-then suddenly you'll find yourself in the Plaka area, wandering cobblestone streets lined with colorful houses, gardens, quaint shops and small tavernas. From the vantage point of ancient monuments and amphitheaters, you can look down on tall modern buildings.

Despite the many juxtapositions of ancient and modern life, Athens is looking toward its future. Big changes are evident as the city prepares to "bring home" the Olympic Games in 2004. A new subway system is in place. The new international airport has opened at nearby Spata, and congested downtown streets are being transformed into pedestrian walkways, greatly reducing the city's notorious smog and noise. Such improvements to Athens' infrastructure will please most visitors, but make no mistake: The ancient charms that have lured travelers to Greece's capital for millennia still outshine the city's modern makeover.

The Acropolis-a trip to Athens must start with a visit to the Acropolis. The site, one of the earliest settlements in Greece and the epicenter of Greek genius during the Golden Age of Pericles, never fails to impress. Exploring it is awe-inspiring, for first-time and repeat visitors alike. Even the scaffolding won't dampen your enthusiasm. The attractions are not all on top of the hill, so take time to appreciate the ruins you'll pass on your climb, including the amphitheaters on the south slope. Be sure also to pause to take in the various views of the city (the layer of brown smog is seen less frequently than in the past).

Among the structures to admire on the Acropolis are the Parthenon, the small Ionian temple of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion Temple. Nearby is the Acropolis Museum, which contains all of the portable objects removed from the site since 1834. (The Elgin Marbles, the most famous artifacts removed earlier from the Parthenon, remain in London, but efforts are underway to return them in time for the 2004 Olympics.)

From the Acropolis, you need walk only a couple of miles in any direction to see most of the major archaeological sites and museums in Athens. Start by taking a trip to the top of the Hill of Philopappou for a great view of the city. From there head north to the Agora, which was the center of ancient Athens' city life. Nearby you will find the Roman Forum and the graceful Tower of the Winds. Continue east through the frenetic-yet-delightful Plaka neighborhood to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Zeus. Watch the skirted soldiers (called Evzones) perform a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in Syntagma Square. Afterward, enjoy a coffee and people-watch at one of the tables on the Square-one of the best ways to get a feel for the city. Or relax at the Zappion, a beautiful garden with shaded benches.

Make time to see some of the city's many wonderful museums. The best is the National Archaeological Museum, which is filled with an unsurpassable collection of Greek art and artifacts. The Greek Folk Art Museum is also one of our favorites.

If you aren't planning to visit any of the Greek isles on your trip, spend a day at an area beach, such as in Glyfada (on the southern side of Athens, not far from the old airport). Vouliagmeni and Varkiza aren't great for swimming, but they are popular tanning beaches.

Before you set out to see all you can, pick up a free map from the Greek National Tourist Organization, which has offices in Syntagma Square and at 2 Amerikis St.

Ballet or symphony performances at the Athens Concert Hall are popular October-June. Athenians move outdoors in the summer for dining and entertainment. During the summer months, the outdoor Herod Atticus Theater (site of Athens Festival performances) and Lykavittos Theater (hosting pop entertainers) take over the cultural calendar. Outdoor cinemas take place usually in the courtyards and gardens of buildings, some offering light snacks and beverages at tables flanked by director's chairs.

Start with dinner and then hit the clubs. Or begin with a couple of drinks and then make your way to one of the many bouzouktsidika (clubs specializing in music played on the bouzouki, a mandolin-like instrument). Either way the city is sure to keep you entertained until the early hours. In summer it seems as if everyone is out on the town, making the most of the carefree days. Suburbs like Glyfada and Kifissia are especially popular and provide a cool respite from the city.

It is safer to assume that credit cards will not be accepted at bars and restaurants, other than hotel bars and clubs, although more and more establishments are accepting them.

CAPE SOUNION
On Cape Sounion you'll find the well-preserved, 5th-century-BC Doric Temple of Poseidon. Its location on a cliff gives it fabulous sunset views (it's also a great place to be when the moon's full). A fire a few years ago tarnished the beauty of the area surrounding the temple, but it's still one of Greece's most breathtaking spots. Enjoy a drive along the Saronic Gulf through great little towns and past pleasant beaches, then end the day by ordering a fish or seafood dinner in one of the local restaurants. 37 mi/60 km south of Athens.

CEPHALONIA
The largest island in the Ionian Sea, Cephalonia offers excellent water sports and rugged coastal scenery. On Cephalonia, visit the Melissani Grotto (best seen by small boat), stroll through the town of Argostoli, enjoy the view from the castle at Assos, relax on one of the island's beautiful beaches (our favorites are Makris Gialos and Myrtos Bay) and enjoy the wine festival during the last two weeks of August. Mt. Enos has good hiking and tall fir trees found nowhere else in the world. Cephalonia is generally reached by ferry from Patras. 175 mi/280 km west of Athens.

CHIOS

Though it's not one of the most popular islands, Chios will interest those making a return visit to explore the Greek isles, as well as those with a particular interest in the Byzantine period in history. A stone's throw from Turkey, the island's villages are a subtle mixture of Ottoman and Venetian styles. We enjoyed strolling through Pyrgi, where many of the houses are decorated in gray and white geometric patterns. There's also an important monastery on the island, Nea Moni, which contains Byzantine mosaics and a macabre collection of skulls and bones dating from the Turkish massacre of 1822. 125 mi/200 km east of Athens.

CORFU

Part of the Ionian chain, Corfu is one of the most beautiful Greek islands. It has rich scenery, numerous cypress and olive groves, gorgeous water (ranging in tone from blue to green), rugged mountains, splendid hidden coves and miles of sandy beaches (the one at Paleokastritsa is the most scenic). Highlights include a boat ride into the green and blue grottoes, visiting the monastery and spending some time wandering the narrow alleys of the main town, Kerkyra. The town has a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere: Walk through the Venetian quarter, shop for silver, or just sit in one of numerous outdoor cafes. If you have an itching need to do something educational, visit the island's proudest possession, the church of Agios Spiridon, which holds the remains of Corfu's patron saint. Less educational is the casino in the gaudy Achillion Palace, which even non-gamblers will enjoy seeing (it was built by Elizabeth of Austria in honor of her favorite Greek hero, Achilles). The ferry from Igoumenitsa takes only two hours to reach Corfu (compared with the 17 hours for the boat from Patras), and the drive from Athens to Igoumenitsa is fairly painless (you can visit Delphi along the way). It's also possible to fly to Corfu. 230 mi/370 km northwest of Athens.

CORINTH
Consisting of both an old and a new town 4 mi/7 km apart, Corinth is worth a visit of half a day. The old town, where St. Paul once preached, is by far the more interesting of the two. Be sure to stroll its lively waterfront area, take in the view from the Acrocorinth hilltop and see the museum at the site of ancient Corinth, Temple of Apollo (6th century BC), Agora (Forum), remains of the Long Wall and other ruins. And just before arriving at ancient Corinth, take a look from the bridge above at the freighters squeezing through the 82-ft-/25-m-wide Corinth Canal. 40 mi/65 km west of Athens.

CRETE

Located in the Mediterranean Sea, Crete is Greece's largest island. Dry and mountainous, it also has flowing streams that cut through rocky crevices and several fairly sandy, pretty beaches. Although the island is not very green, it's beautiful nonetheless, and its many historical sites have elegant architecture, notable statuary and fine mosaics. Crete (pop. 540,000) is one of our favorite Greek islands.

Most visitors stop first in Iraklion because the main airport and seaport are located nearby on the island's northern coast. As a result, the capital city (pop. 127,600) can be very noisy and crowded during the summer. (We recommend using one of the smaller towns as a base if you'll be staying on the island for several days.) But there's plenty to see in Iraklion. The Archaeological Museum displays only Cretan artifacts and has one of the world's best collections of Minoan relics. It's a must-see, particularly if you plan to visit Knossos, Festos and other archaeological sites on Crete. Many of the original pieces-sculpture, art, mosaics, pottery, jewelry-found at the sites are on display in the museum. It's well lit and well organized, taking visitors chronologically through the island's history. Among our favorites are the frescoes and the snake goddess statues from Knossos. (Plan three hours in the museum, which is open daily.)

If you have time, visit Iraklion's fascinating historical museum (local history, folk costumes and paintings) and St. Minas, one of the largest churches in Greece. (The ceiling frescoes are painted in vivid colors.) We also recommend a stop in El Greco Park, a shady relief of greenery that contains a bust of the native Cretan artist. You can also walk along the old city walls and visit the fortress the Venetians built at the port.

A few miles southeast of Iraklion is Knossos, the most visited site on Crete. Once the capital of the ancient Minoan civilization, the ruins date back to the 15th century BC. In addition to its age (it's 10 centuries older than the Acropolis), what's notable about Knossos is that some of the buildings have been reconstructed. The wealthy amateur archaeologist who uncovered the ruins in the early 1900s wanted visitors to see what King Minos' Palace actually looked like. The reconstruction has been controversial with many archaeologists, who believe ancient sites should be left as they were found. Most visitors, however, find Knossos fascinating-you don't have to use your imagination to envision what the palace's throne room looked like. Instead, you can walk through partially reconstructed buildings, painted in authentic colors (black and red were common), with copies of mosaics and other artifacts in their actual places. (Many of the original items are in the Archaeological Museum in Iraklion.) Knossos is well worth a stop-you can take a public bus from Iraklion or go as part of an organized tour. If you go on your own, be sure to pick up a good guidebook or hire a guide at the entrance.

Crete is such a big island (about 160 mi/260 km long by about 35 mi/60 km wide) that you could spend several days in various areas without getting bored. East of Iraklion is Agios Nikolas, called the St. Tropez of Greece. Stroll around the lake, where you'll find several cafes with outdoor seating. From Agios Nikolas (and also from nearby Elounda) you can take boat tours to Spinalonga, a tiny island on which the Venetians built a castle-fort in the late 1500s to fend off pirates and the Turks. Crete isolated (imprisoned, really) its lepers there from the early 1900s until 1957. Visitors can tour the fortress, walk along the battlements and view the tiny medieval buildings where the lepers resided. It's a starkly beautiful and unusual place.

If you have time, we recommend a driving day trip through the scenic Lassithi Plains, a verdant expanse that spreads across a lofty plateau high up in the Dikti mountains at the eastern end of the island. A trip to the plains may be combined with a stop at the Diktean Cave, the legendary birthplace of Zeus.

Try to visit at least one of the small old coastal towns on the island, such as Sfinari (on the western coast) or Matala (on the southern coast, near Festos, the second-most important Minoan ruin on the island), where boat excursions run daily to islands in the bay and to palm-fringed Preveli beach. The small town of Vai, located on the far eastern end of the island, is also pretty, but tends to be overcrowded with tourists (it also has the only natural palm grove in all Europe).

On the western end of the island is Khania, where you can stop for lunch or dinner and watch the parade of people strolling along the harbor (especially at night). Most of the city's interesting sites are to be found in the old Venetian quarter. Also on the western part of the island is Europe's longest gorge, Samaria Gorge, which was formed by a stream that runs 11 mi/18 km to the town of Agia Roumeli. The gorge is a lovely place to hike, with one of the most spectacular landscapes on the island.

Crete is the place to go for water sports, including windsurfing, snorkeling and waterskiing. We think it's best to rent a car there, although drivers on the island are aggressive and island roads are narrow and winding. Signage is often in Greek or nonexistent. Bus tours, which can be arranged at most hotels, are available to most of the island's main attractions. Most are reasonably priced. Public bus service around the island is quite good and cheap, once you figure it out. 175 mi/280 km south of Athens.

BONN
A few ministries remain in Bonn (pop. 294,300), but now that parliament and most of the government has moved to Berlin, the city has become a much quieter place-some people would argue that it's always been quiet. But Bonn will still attract travelers interested in visiting the city where Beethoven was born (the Beethoven Haus is in Bonngasse) and in attending top-quality productions at its opera house. Sudstadt, a nice quarter built in the Grunderzeit (late 1800s), is also worth exploring. Other sights include the Poppelsdorfer Schloss (a baroque palace in the botanical gardens), Bonn University (housed in a palace) and the Bundeshaus (former seat of the German parliament). The Kunst und Ausstellungshalle der Bundesrepublik Deutschland continues to host prominent international exhibits. 100 mi/160 km northwest of Frankfurt.

DELOS

In 400 BC, Delos was considered so sacred that no one could be born or buried there. The Athenians who ruled the island believed that it was where Leto gave birth to Apollo and his twin Artemis (both fathered by Zeus). Located in the center of the Cycladic islands, the mostly barren Delos flourished as a trading center from 400-100 BC. Elaborate temples and shrines were built to honor Apollo and other gods. But after the island was sacked and its inhabitants massacred in 80 BC, Delos was abandoned until the past century-when it was recognized as a national archaeological site.

Today, the tiny, uninhabited island attracts thousands of visitors, most of whom arrive by boat from nearby Mykonos. Since Delos can only be reached by water, you can sign up for a guided tour or take a ferry to the island and wander around on your own. We recommend a tour or, at least, a good guidebook to explain what you're seeing. The archaeological ruins are widely scattered and there's little signage, so a guide or a guidebook can be helpful.

And there's plenty to see. Managed by the Greek government, the island contains some very impressive artifacts interspersed between patches of brightly colored wildflowers. The best known is the Terrace of the Lions, a row of marble beasts guarding the Sacred Lake where Apollo was born. Nearby is the Sanctuary of Apollo, a temple dedicated to the sun god. Don't skip the residential areas-some of the most arresting sites are there. The House of Dionysos contains a mosaic of a god riding a panther. Visitors to the House of Cleopatra are greeted by the headless statues of the owners. If you look carefully beneath what was the center of a large theater, you'll see a cistern that supplied water to the houses. Take time to explore the entire site, but don't leave without at least walking through the museum. Though most of Delos' best artifacts are housed in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, the island museum contains several statues and mosaics of note as well as a model of what the city must have looked like at its peak. If you have any energy left, climb to the top of Mt. Kythnos for an overview. Most boats to Delos leave from Mykonos early in the morning and return before 3 pm, which is when the island closes to outside visitors. No one is allowed to visit the island on Monday. 125 mi/200 km southeast of Athens.

DELPHI
Home of the ancient Oracle, Delphi was known in mythology as the "Navel of the Earth." Today, archaeologists consider it to be one of Greece's greatest cultural treasures. The ruins require at least half a day to visit. Among the treasures are the Castalia Spring, the theater, the Temple of Apollo (where the Oracle was) and the Arcade of the Athenians (columns in varying degrees of ruin). Other sites include the Sacred Way, the Treasury of the Athenians and the stadium. You'll also take in a panoramic view of the Gulf of Itea and the surrounding area from the site. The town's museum is one of the best in Greece; it houses the bronze Charioteer.

The highway between Athens and Delphi passes through the town of Livadia and near Thebes (the Thiva of Oedipus fame) and is worth the drive if only for the scenery. If you're going to Delphi by boat, the nearest port is Itea, about 20 mi/30 km away, while the best access from the Peloponnese is via ferry from Patras. Delphi can also be seen easily on a day trip from Athens, but overnighting has its advantages: There are fewer visitors in the evening and morning. If you're traveling to or from Athens, take the 20-minute side trip to visit the 11th-century Byzantine monastery at Ossios Lukas (excellent frescoes and mosaics with gold backgrounds-allow at least an hour). And if you're interested in carpets or red wine, stop in the town of Arakhova (Arahova). 60 mi/100 km northwest of Athens.

DION
Near Mt. Olympus in northern Greece, Dion is an ancient, sacred city that was first excavated in 1928. Allow several hours to wander through the 14 streets of temples, Roman odeons and other ruins (there's also a museum). Dion is generally seen while driving between Athens and Thessaloniki. 125 mi/200 km northwest of Athens.

DODONA
Dodona is a small, isolated village with a large, omnipresent patron-the god Zeus was said to have resided there when he was not lounging up on Mt. Olympus. See the museum, the ancient ruins of the Oracle of Zeus (his priests conjured up prophecies from the sounds of the streams and sacred oak trees), the remains of the huge theater (there are sometimes performances there in July and August as part of the Epirotika Festival) and the ruins of the Sanctuary of Zeus (a new sacred oak was recently planted there). Greek dramas are frequently performed at the 3rd-century-BC Dodona Theatre. Nearby is Ioannina, a beautiful town on the shore of a large lake. The town has a good bazaar, a winding citadel and a number of good restaurants. 225 mi/360 km northwest of Athens.

ELEUSIS
Recent restoration of the immediate surroundings of ancient Eleusis has improved the ugly image of this modern industrial town. The ruins of this ancient religious center are extensive and mainly of interest to travelers who are enamoured of the "rites of the Ancient Eleusinian Mysteries." If that doesn't get your blood flowing, your time could be better spent elsewhere. It has a museum, the Temple of Propylaean Artemis and Sanctuary of Demeter and Kore. 10 mi/16 km west of Athens.

EPIDAURUS

Epidaurus was built to honor Asklepeios (Aesculapius), the god of healing. In the city you'll find the unique Tholos (a circular building with Corinthian columns) and the Temple of Asklepeios (both from the 4th century BC). Chief among the other draws are Roman and Greek baths, a museum and one of the best-preserved amphitheaters in Greece. Mountains provide a scenic backdrop for the antiquities. If you're there any time during June-September, attend one of the Greek dramas performed in the open-air theater. The performances are in Greek, but English summaries are available, and the acoustics will astound you. The plays are one of the greatest cultural experiences in Greece. (Seating is limited, so make arrangements in advance.) We attended a performance of Antigone there, many years ago, when the military junta was still in power, and the actors seemed to be directing the angry, tragic message of the play at the stern-looking generals seated in the front row. (The generals were out of power within a year.) Allow at least one full day there. 50 mi/80 km southwest of Athens.

EPIRUS
This is one of our favorite areas of Greece because of its varied terrain and relatively few tourists. Snow-covered mountains, the impressive Vikkos Gorge (near Monodendri, known for its weaving), the Agia Paraskevi Monastery and the ruins of Dodona are the main draws to the region, which borders Albania. Its fishing villages are wonderfully picturesque. For a romantic getaway, visit Papingo, a preserved and restored traditional village atop the Vikkos Gorge. And be sure to visit the mountain town of Metsovon, the home of a unique and interesting style of art and famous for its cheese. Corfu is just to the west. 200 mi/320 km northwest of Athens.

HYDRA

If you must pick one island near Athens to visit, our vote is for Hydra. It has style-gracious stone houses climb the hills surrounding a lovely boat-filled harbor. And it offers peace and quiet-neither cars nor the obnoxious motorcycles so ubiquitous to Athens are allowed. Transportation options are limited to donkeys and small boats. But the most pleasant way to explore the island is on foot.

Outdoor cafes, shops and art galleries encircle the harbor of the town of Hydra, which is on the north side of the island. You can walk around admiring the brightly painted boats or just sit in the shade, relax and drink coffee. If you stroll around the northeast side of the waterfront, you'll come to the remains of a fortress, offering splendid views out to sea. On the opposite side of the harbor, several windmills perch above a cafe that hangs off a rocky ledge. Below the cafe is a roped-off swimming area with good snorkeling, but no beach.

You can also visit Panagia Church, which has a peaceful courtyard, or follow one of the narrow streets up the hillside. En route, you'll be treated to a glimpse of how the island's upscale residents live as well as to splendid views of the town. To explore more of the island, we suggest hiring a donkey or a small motorboat. It's well worth it. 50 mi/80 km south of Athens.

IOS
This Cycladic island is the place to go if you want a wild time in Greece. There are young people all over the place and plenty of all-night bars and dance clubs. You don't even have to be bothered by obligatory tours of cultural sites-there are none. During the summer, daily boat service operates from nearby islands and Piraeus. 125 mi/200 km southeast of Athens.

ITHACA
The legendary home of Odysseus, the Ionian island of Ithaca is a relaxing place. The island offers good snorkeling, pleasant small villages (we like Kioni) and scenic bays (such as Vathy). Be sure to see the Grotto of Nymphs. In July the island holds a music festival. 165 mi/265 km west-northwest of Athens.

KALAMBAKA
Located in central Greece, Kalambaka is the place to stay while touring the monasteries of Meteora. The town itself has post-Byzantine churches and an 11th-century cathedral (with frescoes) that are worth exploring, but we'd recommend getting out of the city fairly quickly: The surrounding countryside offers great views of the Thessalia Plain. 170 mi/285 km northwest of Athens.

KAVALA
In far northern Greece, Kavala has a Byzantine hilltop castle overlooking the city and its lively harbor-breathtaking-and a huge Turkish aqueduct that was modeled along Roman lines. Kavala is where you catch the ferry to Thassos, Greece's northernmost island (it has beaches, scenic terrain and nice towns). History buffs may want to visit the 2,300-year-old town of Philippi (19 mi/30 km north of Kavala), notable for two events in ancient history: It's where Marc Antony defeated Brutus in 42 BC, and it's where St. Paul founded the first Christian community in Europe. For most, Kavala is seen as a day trip from Thessaloniki. 215 mi/345 km north of Athens.

FUSSEN

At the southern end of the Romantic Road, Fussen is near two 19th-century castles connected to "Mad" King Ludwig II, Hohenschwangau (his boyhood home) and Neuschwanstein (the product of his man-child imagination). If the latter castle looks familiar, it's because Walt Disney used it as a model for Sleeping Beauty's castle in Disneyland. Expect long waits and the kinds of crowds you'd find at Disneyland-more than a million people visit the castle every year. For the best view of the exterior, hike the short distance up to the Marienbrucke (Mary's Bridge).

A ploy to attract even more tourists (and elevate kitsch to even greater heights in the Bavarian Alps) is the Musical Theater Neuschwanstein. A musical based on the king's ultimately tragic life is presented nightly. 60 mi/95 km southwest of Munich.

KOS

The island of Kos, just off the coast of Turkey, was the birthplace of Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine. Byzantine and Hellenistic buildings/ruins, nice beaches and natural beauty make this Dodecanese island a favorite of anyone who visits. The sights can be seen in about two days, but beach lovers could easily stay a week.

Visit the fairly well-preserved Asklepeion Sanctuary, 4 mi/6 km west of the capital, also called Kos. The guide may tell you Hippocrates practiced there, but it was built in 357 BC, 20 years after he died. (Plan an hour to tour the site.) Also see the Casa Romana (mosaics), temples of Aphrodite and Dionysus, and the Palace of the Knights of Rhodes (a quite impressive medieval structure with double walls and a moat-it's also called St. John's). Other attractions include a museum, Turkish mosques, Roman baths, the Roman Odeon and fountains, and the enormous Plane Tree (some say it was planted by Hippocrates, but it is at least 2,000 years younger than the doctor).

If time permits, visit the ruined Byzantine fortress and 14th-century church in Palio Pili (14 mi/22 km from Kos) and the medieval castle at Antimahia (about 19 mi/30 km from Kos); shop for pottery or swim at Kardamena (on the coast about 22 mi/35 km from Kos); or relax in the hot springs at Thermes (7 mi/12 km from Kos). The island can be reached by boat from Rhodes or by plane (daily) from Athens. Fishermen who live on the nearby island of Kalymnos spend summers combing the Mediterranean looking for sponges. It's best to visit in either spring or fall when islanders celebrate either the departure or the return of the fishermen. 200 mi/320 km southeast of Athens.

LESBOS
Once home of the legendary poet Sappho, the island of Lesbos has been important in the region since 3000 BC. Today, its main attractions are spear fishing and a unique terrain, ranging from rolling fields to pine forests, mountains and (fairly empty) beaches. Visit the main city, Mitilini, set in a crescent-shaped bay in the shadow of a 14th-century castle. On the west side of the island, near Eressos, are the ruins of the ancient woman's commune where Sappho wrote. While the site is not much more than a crumbled stone wall, pilgrims still come to pay tribute to the great Greek poet. Poets, actors and artists flock there for summer festivals. 150 mi/240 km northeast of Athens.

LEVKAS
This picturesque, rather untouristy Ionian island near the mainland (reached by car and ferry) has quaint villages and nice beaches. Our favorite sites are the 13th-century castle of Santa Maura and the traditional fishing village of Agios Nikitas. Skorpios, the Onassis family's private island, can be seen across from the resort of Nidri. 175 mi/280 km west-northwest of Athens.

MARATHON
This site makes an absorbing half-day trip from Athens-it's the battleground where the Greeks defeated a much larger Persian army. It was also the starting point for the original long-distance run: The story is that a runner raced off to Athens to proclaim victory-and dropped dead as soon as he had delivered his message. Sights include a burial mound and a good museum. In the nearby city of Ramnous (about 5 mi/8 km east), there are two ruined (flat to the ground) temples and a citadel. 26 mi and 385 yd/42 km and 182 m by foot northeast of Athens.

METEORA
The natural sandstone towers of Meteora are the site of spectacular monasteries that are simply a must-see. Atop gray-rock pinnacles jutting some 2,000 ft/600 m in the air (meteora means "hanging between Heaven and Earth"), these 11th-century religious centers contain ancient manuscripts, ornate icons and Byzantine artifacts. Spend at least a day in the area and visit at least one of the four or five monasteries still in use (there were originally 24). We suggest seeing Megalo Meteoro (Metamorfossis), 615 ft/200 m high, or Varlaam (built in 1542-stunning post-Byzantine art). You can even spend the night in one of the monasteries, though the accommodations are far from deluxe. (Male visitors are required to wear long pants; women have to cover their arms and legs.) 160 mi/260 km northwest of Athens.

MILOS
Once the home of the Venus de Milo, this island offers isolated coves and white pebble beaches. Visit the castle in Milos town and stroll along the harbor. For a longer journey, take a boat from the harbor to the bay of Kleftiko. On the way, you will pass Mauros Kavos, a hidden cave beach believed to have been a pirate's hideout. Another trip can be made to Appolonia, a lovely fishing village on the other side of the island. 95 mi/155 km south of Athens.

MOUNT ATHOS
This is a truly fascinating area: It is Europe's only monastic state (since 1060). Located on a peninsula in the Aegean, 100 mi/160 km east of Thessaloniki, Mount Athos has monasteries of several faiths. Women are not allowed to set foot on the peninsula under any circumstance, and men under age 21 are not permitted unless certain requirements are met. If you want to visit the area, request permission from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs prior to traveling. Submitting a request does not guarantee admission, however. The beaches on the peninsula range from beautiful sand to rocks, but they're quiet and fairly unpopulated. 175 mi/280 km north of Athens.

MYCENAE
With a history dating from around 3000 BC, the region around this ancient city is one of the longest-inhabited areas in Greece. Mycenae's citadel dates from before the Trojan Wars, around 1550 BC to 1200 BC, although it wasn't uncovered until 1874. Entering through the famous Lion Gate, you can go on to explore the remains of the Royal Palace (which some think was once home to Agamemnon), interesting circular "bee-hive" chamber tombs, built without mortar, and the Cyclopean Walls. Wear shoes with good traction when touring the archaeological site-the rocky climb up the hill is steep and slippery. Mycenae can be included in a one- or two-day trip to Corinth, Epidaurus and Nauplia from Athens. 55 mi/90 km southwest of Athens.

MYKONOS

Maybe we've seen too many travel posters touting the beauty of this popular resort island, but Mykonos (pop. 7,000) just didn't live up to its glossies when we were there last. Which isn't to say we had a bad time; the shopping and the food are among the best in Greece (prices also are among the highest), and the nightlife is hard to match. Its whitewashed buildings are elegant-just not as pretty as the pictures suggest. And the island is far more crowded than we expected. Mykonos swarms with tourists almost year-round these days. Traffic, particularly near Mykonos town, can be bumper to bumper. (Good luck finding a place to park.) Noisy and discourteous scooters are everywhere. (If you rent one, drive defensively.)

That said, there's plenty to see and do, especially if you like beaches and water sports. The best beaches are Paradise, Agrari and Elia (the much acclaimed Venetia Beach isn't as pretty, in our opinion). Though some are nude beaches, doffing your clothes is not obligatory. If you prefer to not see quite so much of your fellow sunbathers, try Agio Stefanos, Ornos and Platis Gialos beaches. There's also a water park in a bay on the south side of the island.

Mykonos town, or Chora as it is known locally, is the center of activity on the island, and it is at its liveliest around sunset. Visitors flock to the cafes of Little Venice to watch the orange sphere fall into the blue sea. It's quite a scene, though the sunset views are actually better from the hill on which Mykonos' six famous windmills sit.

Be sure to take time to stroll the town's warren-like streets, many of which are no wider than a sidewalk. On each side are smooth, whitewashed Cycladic-style buildings whose doors and windows are splashed with bright colors. Bougainvilleas, clematis and geraniums cascade from the balconies. You could easily spend hours wandering between the cafes, nightclubs and shops-if you are not bothered by crowds. (Expect to bump into a lot of people and to get lost; just ask someone to point you to the waterfront.)

If you feel compelled to do more than shop and eat, you can visit the archaeological museum (exhibits from the Greek and Roman eras) and the folk art museum (displays of Myconian art, ceramics and embroidery). There's also a small agricultural museum in one of the island's famous windmills overlooking the bay. Be sure to peek inside a few of the more than 400 churches that are scattered around the island. Most are tiny but peaceful places. (The most photographed is Panagia Paraportiani; once you see it you'll understand why.) At some point, while strolling along the waterfront, you may notice a crowd of people encircling a pink pelican. The bird is Peter the Junior, the most photographed resident of the island.

Outside the town of Mykonos, you can visit the Monastery of the Panagia of Tourliani, a 17-century monastery in Ano Mera that has several unusual icons. Boats depart daily (except Monday) for the nearby island of Delos.

Public buses run regularly from Mykonos town to other resort areas on the island. You can also take a small boat from the main town to the different beaches. Rental cars and motorbikes also are available. Ferries and airplanes provide daily service from Athens and nearby islands. Mykonos also is a popular stop for cruise ships, which anchor in the bay off Mykonos town and take passengers ashore in small boats. 125 mi/200 km southeast of Athens.

MYSTRA
Once an ancient military outpost, this site in the center of the Peloponnese Peninsula is an extraordinarily complete example of a Byzantine city. The last Byzantine emperor's headquarters, Mystra has fine Byzantine relics and architecture-allow several hours. Not as much remains in Sparta, though, except a deep sense of the history of the city-state. Also nearby are the Diros Caverns and the lovely village of Githion. 85 mi/140 km southwest of Athens.

NAUPLIA
Set on a scenic bay in the eastern part of the Peloponnese, Nauplia is a captivating town worth a visit. During the 1800s, it was the first capital of liberated Greece. The town is filled with Venetian and neoclassical buildings and has a relaxing atmosphere made to soak up time. Nauplia can be seen on a superlong day trip from Athens or combined with the attractions of Argolis or Bourdzie (a tiny offshore island which has a 15th-century fortress that looks absolutely stunning at sunrise or sunset). We prefer, however, spending the night in Nauplia, where there's a fine selection of hotels, and using the town as a base to see Corinth, Epidaurus and Mycenae. 50 mi/80 km southwest of Athens.

NAXOS
Naxos, the largest of the Cycladic islands, was once a Venetian possession, so many of its villages have Venetian architecture. It also has good hiking trails and excellent beaches (the ones on the west side of the island are the best). Olive groves, fruit orchards and small farms give the place a bucolic air. On the northern side of the island, in the village of Apollonos, there's an ancient, unfinished statue of Apollo (it was never completed because of a defect in the marble). The island also has an airport. 115 mi/185 km southeast of Athens.

OLYMPIA
The site of the first Olympic Games (which ran from 776 BC to 393 AD), Olympia still serves as the inspiration for the modern Olympic games, which were begun in 1896: The eternal flame of Altis, which dominates the site, is the source of the flaming torch carried to the current games. Major structures include the Temple of Zeus (6th century BC), the Temple of Apollo, Nero's Villa, the Altis Sanctuary and a museum (superb sculpture displays). The International Olympic Academy is headquartered in Olympia, and there's a Museum of the Olympic Games. You can stay in Olympia, the nearby coastal town of Katakolon or in Pirgos (about 6 mi/10 km west of Olympia). Pirgos has beautiful architecture (particularly the market and the theater) and lots of little cafes and tavernas. 180 mi/290 km west of Athens.

PARGA
This sleepy fishing town was once thought to be the gateway to Hades (in Greek mythology, the dead left from Parga to cross the River Styx). A more modern (and more corporeal) attraction is its ruined 13th-century Norman castle. There are other interesting coastal towns nearby, such as Preveza (quaint, narrow streets) and Nikopolis, which means "Victory City" in Greek. It was founded by Octavius (later the Emperor Augustus) in honor of his stunning naval defeat of Antony and Cleopatra. 180 mi/290 km northwest of Athens.

PAROS

This Cycladic island has several nice beaches and a lively nightlife. Most visitors, however, will seek out the island's main town of the same name because it's the departure point of ferry boat service for the Cyclades and islands beyond. (Luggage depositories are available for travelers who might want to use Paros as a base for further exploration.) There is a pretty golden sand beach at Chryssi Akti (great for sailboarding) and a fishing village at Naoussa. The island's main town, Parikia, is a colorful village with a 13th-century Venetian citadel and a slightly bizarre cathedral (called the Church of 100 Doors, the cathedral's belfry is a tall cypress tree). The island can become crowded and rooms scarce, so we advise that you prearrange accommodations. If it gets too crowded, try the nearby island of Antiparos, Paros' alterego. 6 mi/10 km west of Naxos.

PATMOS
This striking Dodecanese island has whitewashed houses and fairly secluded beaches. Its tavernas serve superb fresh fish. Relatively unpopulated (it's home to shepherds and fishermen, primarily), Patmos' primary attractions are its Grotto of Chora, where St. John wrote the Book of Revelations, and the Byzantine Monastery of St. John, which has ancient manuscripts, an ornate chapel, jeweled robes and a spectacular ocean view (it's atop a hill). Ferry boats dock at the main town on the island, Skala. 30 mi/45 km south-southwest of Samos.

PATRAS

This port, Greece's third-largest city, is a major terminal for ferries traveling to Italy and many Greek islands. Don't go out of your way to see Patras: It's not very interesting, especially when compared with the rest of Greece. There are a few sights, however, if you have some time before your ferry leaves. Visit St. Andrew's Cathedral, the picturesque Byzantine fortress and Psila Alonia, a beautiful square near the cathedral. Patras can easily be seen in one full day.

The beach town Rion (reached in about 15 minutes from Patras via public transportation) is one of several resorts in the area. Take a day trip to Messolonghi, on the edge of an enchanting lagoon. Messolonghi's main attraction is the Park of the Heroes, which commemorates the Greek War of Independence (an 1821-30 struggle against the Turks). The park also has a statue of the English Romantic poet Lord Byron, who died in Messolonghi fighting for Greek independence (his heart is buried under his statue). If you're driving, take the coastal highway between Patras and Corinth and wander through the fishing villages-Akrata, Platanos, Egion and Lambiri are possibilities. 105 mi/170 km west of Athens.

PAXI

This small Ionian island is mainly a place for quiet walks, especially in one of the many olive groves. It can be a very pleasant place, as the throngs of tourists in the area generally stick to Corfu. There are daily ferries from Corfu and Parga during the summer. Most hotels are found around the main town of Gaios. 15 mi/25 km south of Corfu.

PELLA
These ruins were the site of the ancient capital of Macedonia, the birthplace of Alexander the Great. Though still under excavation, Pella has a number of uncovered ruins (including a temple, a theater and a few private homes) as well as a museum with an excellent collection of mosaics. 25 mi/40 km northwest of Thessaloniki.

PIRAEUS
It's easy to hop on the subway and head to Athens' port, Piraeus (pop. 197,000), where you can join Athenians looking for a cool evening outing or a good seafood restaurant. Afterward, spend the evening in an open-air cafe or in one of the port's lively nightclubs. Piraeus also has a few other attractions, including a good Naval Museum, a wall of a ruined fortress built by Konnon in the 4th century BC and a small flea market, which has somewhat lower prices than you'll find in Athens. Most people simply pass through Piraeus to board cruise ships or hydrofoils to the islands. 5 mi/8 km southwest of Athens.

POROS
This Argo-Saronic island is known for its wine and unique architecture. As most cruise tours give visitors about an hour and a half to see it, you'll have to choose among the following: the Panagia Monastery; the ruins of Poseidon's Temple (the climb up takes an hour, then you have to hurry down); a hike through the pine trees; and secluded tree-shaded beaches (take shoes-the shores can be rocky). Cruises that also include Hydra and Aegina usually arrive in Poros last (at about 4:30 pm-they depart around 5:50 pm). However, we recommend staying two or three nights. If you have more time, cross the channel to the mainland; the two best things to see are the ruins of Troezene (next to a ravine with a natural rock bridge) or the miles of lemon groves near the town of Galatas. 35 mi/55 km southwest of Athens.

RHODES

Only 20 mi/30 km from the Turkish coast, this island is very popular, with lively nightlife, excellent beaches, flowers, hills and historical sites. The island has a fairly active artists colony, and it's not uncommon to come across a painter at work. Much of its flavor and architecture arrived with the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who occupied it 1310-1522. In the capital, Rodos, see the medieval quarter of Old Town (the wall that surrounds it is in great condition, revealing much of 15th-century life) and the Agios Nikolas Fortress (at the harbor entrance), which may stand where the Colossus of Rhodes once stood. Other sights include the archaeological museum in the 15th-century Hospital of the Knights and the 14th-century Crusader's Fortress, or Palace of the Grand Masters, with its beautiful furniture, marble and 5th-century mosaics from the island of Kos. Allow two hours for the palace, and if you're there April-October, attend the sound-and-light show, concerts and folkloric performances. If time permits, visit the Acropolis of Rhodes to see a theater, stadium and two temples.

About 20 mi/30 km southwest of Rodos is Kameiros, the remains of a Doric temple and a city begun in the 3rd century BC. About 30 mi/50 km south of Rodos, near the town of Lindos, are the 5th-century-BC ruins of the Temple of Athena (well preserved), which has a wonderful view of the village and the Mediterranean. On Lindos' harbor is the site where St. Paul is said to have been shipwrecked on his way to Rome. Cars are banned on the streets of Lindos, and there are no hotels to speak of (rooms and apartments are available in private homes). A stop in Lindos, a national historic landmark, is highly recommended. Also take half a day to see the Valley of the Butterflies (about 15 mi/25 km south of Rodos, in the area called Petaloudes), one of the most dazzling parts of the island. The narrow valley with a stream in the center is especially spectacular June-September because of the foliage and rare butterflies. There are several other towns with ruins, beautiful beaches and fortresses; we think that four or five days on the island wouldn't be too much. 260 mi/420 km southeast of Athens.

SAMOS
Samos is known not only for its beauty but also for those said to have been born there: Hera (queen of the Greek gods), Pythagoras (the father of geometry) and Epicurus (the philosopher who believed that pleasure was the highest good). The island is dotted with green wooded hills, clear sparkling water, tall cypress trees and stunning whitewashed buildings-it's a wonder Epicurus ever left. Visit the excellent archaeological museum in Vathi, the scenic fishing village Pythagorio (known locally as Tagani) or just pick a beach and relax (our favorites are Tsamandou, Votsalakia and Hrysi). For a more remote beach, hire a boat and head out to the tiny island of Samiopoula. Don't leave Samos without trying the delicious dessert wine with the same name. The island is reached by air or boat from Athens. 160 mi/260 km east of Athens.

SANTORINI

To experience Santorini's unusual geography, it's best to approach this Cycladic island from the sea. The barren rocky cliffs rise straight out of the blue Aegean-their tops are dusted by what at first looks like a sprinkling of snow. Then, as you get closer, the snow takes the shape of Cycladic buildings hanging precariously off the hillsides. Zigzagging lines across the rock face become recognizable as roads that lead up from the sea to whitewashed cities perching on the cliffs.

Santorini owes its geological peculiarities to a massive volcanic explosion some 3,500 years ago that blew out the center of the island. (The blast often is cited as the reason for the decline of the Minoan civilization on nearby Crete.) The cliffs that jut out of the sea are what's left of the crater rim. The surrounding islands are what remain of the other sides of the crater, and the sea has filled in the gaps, forming a beautiful bay. It's not surprising that the island's spectacular setting has made it one of the most visited islands in Greece-it can be quite crowded in the summer months. But Santorini (pop. 9,000) is still worth a few days' visit.

Most visitors who arrive by ferry (a 10-hour trip from Athens) take the buses from the main port at Athinios up to Fira, the capital of the island. Fira (also called Thera, Fyra or Thira) is the largest of several cities perched on the rim and is known for its charming shops, unusual hotels (many have pools hanging off the cliffs) and bars and restaurants with smashing sunset views (everything faces west over the caldera). Just walking through the town is an exhilarating experience-you feel as if you're on top of the world. Fira also has its own small port, which can be reached via a funicular cable car, on a donkey or by climbing down some 600 steps. (We recommend taking the cable car down for the views and a donkey back up for the novelty.) From Fira, you can take a public bus to other parts of the island.

We particularly recommend spending an afternoon and evening in Oia, a smaller version of Fira located on the northern tip of the island. It's hard to imagine, but the sunsets are even more spectacular from there. If you walk down (about 300 steps) to Oia's tiny port, you can snorkel off the black volcanic rocks or dine at one of several pleasant seafood tavernas whose tables front the water. (Donkeys will carry you back up the hill for a small fee.)

If you're looking for a pleasant beach, you'll have to settle for black volcanic sand (small rocks really) on the eastern side of the island. Buses run regularly from Fira to Kamari and Perissa, whose black sand beaches front a string of tourist hotels, restaurants and shops. You can also take a day trip to Akrotira to view the excavations of this Minoan-era town that's covered in volcanic ash. (A visit will be particularly interesting if you have seen-or plan to see-the mosaics that were recovered from the town and are now on display in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.) You can also visit a ruined medieval castle with unusual frescoes. Boat excursions take visitors across the caldera to small, uninhabited volcanic islands, some of which still spout steam.

Santorini's volcanic soil gets credit for the island's reputation for producing strong red and white wines. Be sure to try some or, better yet, tour one of the local wineries. Wine tastings are common throughout the year.

Though public transportation on the island is good and inexpensive, buses can be very crowded in summer months. Rental cars are available if you want to explore on your own. Be aware, however, that hairpin turns and narrow roads are commonplace. For that reason, we don't recommend renting a motorcycle or scooter (though you will see plenty) unless you are an experienced driver.

Santorini is a popular stop for cruise ships during the warmer months. Most ships anchor beneath Fira and transport passengers to shore in small boats. 145 mi/235 km southeast of Athens.

SIROS
Less developed for tourism than the other Cycladic islands, Siros was once a center of commerce and shipping for the archipelago. Today, it has lost its prominence, though the neoclassical mansions and elegant architecture remain. The main town of Ermoupoli merits a visit to see its churches and archaeological museum. While there, look for clubs featuring traditional bouzouki music. 75 mi/120 km southeast of Athens.

SKIATHOS
The attractions of this mountainous island (one of the greenest in the Sporades) include a ruined fortress, remains of the 16th-century village of Kastro (allow several hours-the view demands it) and some 17th-century churches (many with frescoes). Visit at least one of the many enchanting beaches-our favorite, Koukounaries, is bordered by pines. There's also a nudist beach called Banana Beach. If you're staying over, you can sample some of the exciting international nightlife. This island can be reached by ferry from several mainland points or by air from Athens. 90 mi/145 km north-northwest of Athens.

SKOPELOS
Once a Venetian possession, this island in the Sporades has beautiful sandy beaches, cobblestone streets, flowers, numerous bays, pine and olive trees and churches (many have frescoes, carved-wood pulpits and Byzantine icons). The island's main town, Skopelos Town, is significant for its three monasteries on Mt. Palouki. It's possible that you'll be invited into one of the friendly residents' houses, which are quite colorful inside. We found that the best beaches are reached by private motorboats or daily commercial boats. 75 mi/120 km north of Athens.

SKYROS
This relatively unspoiled island in the Sporades has a ruined Venetian castle-note the entrance relief of the Lion of St. Mark. Other draws include caves, a museum, 4th-century walls (still standing) and the St. George Monastery. The houses of residents are filled with hand-carved furniture, pottery, embroideries and handicrafts. 80 mi/130 km northeast of Athens.

THESSALONIKI

Greece's second-largest city (pop. 872,000) and the capital of the state of Macedonia, Thessaloniki was founded in 315 BC by a Macedonian general, Kassandros (the town is named after his wife, who was Alexander the Great's half sister). The drive there from Athens, an enjoyable six or seven hours, passes striking mountain scenery. (If you're in more of a hurry, the fast-rail Athens-Thessaloniki train takes three and a half hours.) The city, with a venerable history and a waterfront on the Aegean, underwent a major face-lift in 1997-historic buildings were restored, and new facilities, including museums, concert halls and theaters, were built. Already an interesting place, it now exudes an open-air glamour associated with much larger cities. One of the most luxurious casinos in Greece can be found in the Hyatt Hotel there.

Thessaloniki's archaeological treasures are still its greatest attractions, however. Its superb Archaeological Museum contains a golden hoard of items found in 1977 in the tomb of Philip II, Alexander's father. Also plan to see the White (or Bloody) Tower (a not-to-be-missed mausoleum-it's the oldest and most important monument in town), various Byzantine and other churches (especially the Church of Agios Dimitrios) and the Arch of Galerius (a triumphal arch built in the 4th century AD to celebrate victories over the Parthians).

Relax from sightseeing with an evening stroll along the seaside promenade (between the Platia Aristotelous and the White Tower). Day or overnight trips can be taken to Kavala, Mount Athos, Pella and Philippi. Another fascinating trip in the region is to the Petralona Caves, which have passageways, stalagmites and ceilings 260 ft/79 m high-a Neanderthal skull was even found there. Travelers can also avoid the bustle of the city by touring the region from Agia Triada, a coastal village 18 mi/30 km outside of Thessaloniki. 185 mi/300 km north of Athens.

TINOS
This mountainous Cycladic island is called the "Lourdes of Greece" because the icon in its Cathedral of the Holy Virgin is reputed to have miraculous curing powers. It draws pilgrims from afar, especially on 25 March and 15 August. Tinos is a very nice place, with sandy beaches for swimming and sailing facilities. The town of Pyrgos is quaint and interesting. To get there, take one of the daily boats from Piraeus. 80 mi/130 km southeast of Athens.

VERGINA
The tomb of Philip of Macedonia (father of Alexander the Great) is located in Vergina. The town can be visited on a half-day trip from Thessaloniki, combined with Pella for a full day or seen while driving between Kalambaka and Thessaloniki. 45 mi/70 km southwest of Thessaloniki.

VOLOS
A modern port city on the mainland of central Greece, Volos' main attractions are a good local museum (Paleolithic jewelry and painted tombstones) and the mountainous countryside. The cold air and pleasant forests of nearby Mt. Pilion (mythical home of the centaurs) provide a good break from the summer heat. 110 mi/175 km northwest of Athens.

ZAKINTHOS

This is one of our favorite Greek islands. The main town, also called Zakinthos, has a very romantic atmosphere: You can tell it was once a Venetian colony. Visit the Museum of Byzantine Art, the beautiful church of St. Dionysos and the citadel that overlooks the sea.

The most famous residents are the endangered sea turtles at Laganas beach. The turtles continue to return to Laganas, even though it's the island's most popular beach (don't disturb nesting areas when visiting). There are good beaches at Alikes, Vassilikos and Planos, too. Near the town of Skinari are the beautiful Blue Caves (the cave's interiors are illuminated by light refracting from the sea). 127 mi/205 km west of Athens.

SHOPPING
Shop for handicrafts, wines, rugs, pottery, lace, embroidery, icons and jewelry-of particular interest is the gold jewelry with Greek designs and beautiful silver jewelry set with precious stones. The areas around Syntagma Square and Kolonaki Square in Athens are good for general high-quality shopping. Piraeus is usually less expensive than Athens. Don't be afraid to haggle over prices-it's the norm there. In Crete, shop for colorful handwoven handbags or a harp. In Rhodes, look for ceramic tiles. (Rhodes also has special tax provisions-items highly taxed elsewhere in Greece are less expensive there.)

Shopping Hours
Monday, Wednesday, Saturday 8:30 am-2 pm; Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 8:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-8:30 pm. Hours vary according to season.

Banking Hours
Monday-Thursday 8 am-2 pm, Friday 8 am-1:30 pm.

DINING

People tend to love or hate Greek food. The spicing is unusual, and lamb, olive oil and fish are common ingredients (usually sopped up with a lot of bread). There's more to Greek food, however, than gyros: If you've only experienced Greek cuisine as a fast food in another country, you're in for a treat. Athens has a wide variety of restaurants, ranging from elegant (in most international hotels) to quaint (in the Plaka section). Estiatorion are the more expensive conventional restaurants; taverna are informal, family-run establishments; psistaria offer mostly grilled meats; and psarotaverna specialize in seafood dishes.

Common everywhere are tsatsiki (garlic-yogurt spread), souvlakia (lamb kebabs marinated in garlic), spanakopita (spinach pie) and tiropita (cheese pie). Pastries made from filo dough, nuts and honey, such as baklava, shouldn't be missed. Greek coffee is usually quite good, though very strong.

Greek wines and liqueurs are quite distinctive and potent. The anise-flavored liqueur, ouzo, is often drunk with water. Metaxa is a commonly found brandy. Wines vary widely in taste and quality. Retsina, which acquires the flavor of resin from the casks in which it's stored, is an acquired taste. And Mavrodaphne is extremely sweet.

WEATHER
Our favorite time to visit is from mid May to mid June and from mid September to the latter part of October, when the temperatures are mild, normally 68-77 F/20-25C. The latter part of June to the first part of September is crowded with tourists and hot, getting into the 90s F/30s C). In the winter months, temperatures are often below 50 F/10 C, which is fine for touring, but usually too cold to swim or lie on the beach. Greece has fairly little rain year-round. The breezes that keeps the summer bearable are called meltemi.

TRANSPORTATION
The new Athens International Airport (ATH), formally known as Eleftherios Venizelos Athens International Airport, has opened at Spata, 16 mi/25 km northeast of downtown Athens. Direct rail service links most European countries, although you'll have to travel around the former Yugoslavia. Bus service is also available, but only recommended for the well-traveled.

The local buses in Athens are quite an experience; plan to get lost and meet the locals if you take one. The metered taxis are inexpensive, if sometimes hard to find (locals share them). You need to be aggressive in hailing taxis. You also may want to negotiate a price for a day of touring.

Escorted/hosted tours, rental cars (it's not legally possible to get a car with a driver) and taxis are available at reasonable prices. The intra-country rail is not recommended except to the adventurous or well-traveled. Inexperienced travelers should consider either a hosted or escorted tour on their first visit, but driving through Greece isn't a problem for most people: It's our preferred method of seeing the country. The main Thessaloniki-to-Athens highway is three lanes wide, but the Greeks convert it to four. When you're being passed by another car, you're expected to ease over to the shoulder so the passing car can go up the middle. This is especially important when both directions of traffic have passing cars! Traffic restrictions to control pollution exist in Athens, but don't apply to tourists' rental cars.

Cruise lines offer three-day and longer itineraries through the islands. Local ferries (most leaving from Piraeus) provide cheap travel throughout the islands; if it's a long trip in a large boat, buy first-class tickets. There is now a twin-hulled hovercraft for trips between Piraeus and Mykonos, Spetses and Poros-travel time is about half that of the ferry. But if your budget permits it, the very best way to visit the islands is via yacht. Private ones are expensive but generally not out-of-sight if expenses are divided by a group of friends. There are also organized yacht programs that run set schedules, carrying 20-30 people. The boats tend to be quite nice and visit the less-frequented islands (contact the Greek National Tourist Organization for information).