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BELGIUM
Quick-which European capital is known for its broad boulevards, shady avenues, hundreds of local beers, dozens of flamboyant art-nouveau buildings and the most coveted chocolates in the world? Although you might have be tempted to answer Paris, you'd be closer to the mark if you responded...Brussels.

Contrary to its rather quiet image, Belgium is blessed with some of the best food and drink on the continent-and some of Europe's nicest buildings and prettiest pastoral scenery. It's also more diverse than many expect, encompassing both the idyllic farmlands and cool coastal resorts in the north-the region known as Flanders-and hilly forests in the south-the area known as Walloon.

There's more to the country's duality than scenery, however. In wealthy, more populous Flanders, the residents speak a Dutch dialect and are known as Flemish. In economically depressed Wallonia, the tongue is French. To further confuse things, there's also a small German-speaking minority living in the eastern part of the country. These cultural differences have created some tensions, but they remain mostly mild and peaceful. Travelers are likely to find Belgium a tranquil and enjoyable part of the Continent.
HISTORY
The country's history has contributed to its rich diversity: The Romans, Celts, Spanish, Austrians, French and Dutch all occupied Belgium at one time or another, and each culture left its mark. This mix has led to another, less fortunate, distinction: It is said that the "Low Countries" (as Belgium and the Netherlands are called) have hosted more wars than any other area in the world. Just about every European country has fought some kind of battle there, the most recent examples being the two World Wars.

A constitutional monarchy, Belgium endured some tribulation surrounding King Leopold III following World War II. He was blamed for the country's quick surrender to the Nazis in 1940 and was first barred from the country, then forced to turn the throne over to his son in 1951. Further discord came in the 1960s as political struggles between the French and Flemish populations brought down several governments. The ensuing decades have been more tranquil, however. As the headquarters for the European Union as well as NATO, Belgium is something of a model for getting along.
PERSONAL SAFETY
In general, Belgium is a very safe country. In Antwerp, there are some places, such as the area around the central train station, that should be avoided if possible, and in Brussels, there is some street crime, such as pickpocketing, on crowded public transportation and in areas around the city's train and metro stations. However, common sense should prevent any incidents.

For the latest advisories, call the U.S. Department of State Overseas Citizens Services (202-647-5225), the Canadian Travel Advisory Line (800-267-6788 in Canada or 613-944-6788 outside Canada), the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (171-238-4503) or the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Consular Operations Section (2-6261-3305).
SNAPSHOT
History, Brussels, architecture, diamonds, caves, castles, cathedrals, camping, beer, friendly people, fishing, sand yachting and sailing, Rubens, casinos, chocolate bonbons (called pralines), Bruges, golfing, hiking, canoeing, museums, churches, Spa, colorful processions and pageants, art and ancient manuscripts are Belgium's chief attractions.

This is a particularly nice destination for those who have a good sense of history, who appreciate fine architecture and good food, and who want to see a wide variety of attractions without packing up and moving every other day (the country can be seen on a series of day trips from a central base). Those looking for dramatic scenery or deluxe, full-service resorts will be happier in other parts of Europe.
GEOSTATS
Official Name: Kingdom of Belgium.
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passport only needed by Australian, U.K., U.S. and Canadian citizens. Reconfirm travel document requirements with carrier before departure.
Health Certificates: None currently required. Contact health authorities for latest information
Capital: Brussels.
Currency: Euro. 100 cents = 1 euro.
Population: 10,174,922.
Area: 11,781 sq mi/30,513 sq km.
Languages: Flemish, French, German (all official).
Economy: Agriculture, industry.
Predominant Religions: Roman Catholic, Protestant.
Government: Constitutional monarchy.
Weather: Cool, temperate and rainy, without extreme temperatures.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts
Telephone Codes: 32, country code; 2, city code for Brussels; 3, city code for Antwerp.
Airport Departure Tax: None.
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed April-October

WHAT TO DO THERE ???

ANTWERP

The home of Rubens and the world's diamond capital, Antwerp (pop. 500,000) is a joy to visit. The wide squares and the narrow cobbled streets of the old town are perfect for strolling-they're lined with shops and cafes, which make the walk even more pleasant. The city is still shining from the face-lift it received after it was designated the Cultural Capital of Europe several years ago. The Cathedral of Our Lady (which holds Rubens' humbling Descent From the Cross) was scrubbed and restored; the long-closed Bouria Theater was reopened as a performance space for contemporary works; and the former Church of St. Augustine was turned into a concert hall for medieval and baroque music. Besides these new favorites, old ones remain: Chief among them is the Rubens House and studio, a shrine to Antwerp's most famous native son. Other museums include the Ridder Smidt van Gelder (excellent porcelain), the 400-year-old Plantin-Moretus (with old prints, books and printing equipment from the 16th century) and the Royal Museum of Fine Arts (don't miss this one if you're interested in works by the Flemish masters-Van Eyck, Memling, Bruegel, Van Dyck and, of course, Rubens). The Middelheim Open-Air Museum has sculpture by Rodin and Henry Moore, among others. (You can get to Middelheim by bus from Antwerp's central train station.) Nautical buffs will want to visit the Steen, a 12th-century castle now used as the National Maritime Museum. Shutter-bugs should check out the History of Photography Museum, which exhibits the work of contemporary photographers as well as historic equipment. Plus, it's free.

Antwerp is also one of the world's largest diamond centers. To see diamond cutters at work, go to the Pelikaanstraat area (try Diamond Land at 33a Appelmansstraat or Veiligheidsmuseum at 28-30 Jezusstraat). The Diamant Museum is at 31-33 deKeyserlei. Other city sights include the zoo, Brabo Fountain and the Grote Markt. The market area also includes the Stadhuis (the 16th-century town hall) and many interesting guild houses. After seeing those sites, enjoy the twittering at the Bird Market (open 8:30 am-1 pm) in the Oude Vaartplaats Square flea market. Possible day trips from Antwerp would be to Lier (10 mi/16 km southeast), which is known for its tower and astronomical clock and to Turnhout (25 mi/40 km northeast), which has a fascinating Playing Card Museum.

Note: Antwerp is one of the largest seaports in the world, which gives it both an international flair and a touch of seediness. You might happen upon scantily clad women displaying their wares in picture windows along Schipperstraat. Avoid the following areas, especially at night: Borgerhout and streets behind the Central Railway Station (Statiesstraat, Breydelstraat and Deconinck Plein). Antwerp is 25 mi/40 km by road north of Brussels.
ARLON
Set amid beautiful woodlands, this ancient city was a Roman crossroads. Today the remnants of the era can be found in the archaeological museum and in a still-standing Roman tower. The Church of St. Donat abuts a castle that Richard the Lionhearted used during the Crusades. 120 mi/195 km southeast of Brussels.
BASTOGNE
The site of the Battle of the Bulge and a subsequent memorial, Bastogne can be seen on a day trip from Brussels. A large star-shaped memorial and the Nuts! museum commemorate U.S. Gen. Anthony McAuliffe's pithy reply to the suggestion that he surrender to encircling German forces. The town itself is uninteresting-plan on going elsewhere once you have seen the memorial. 95 mi/155 km by road southeast of Brussels.
BINCHE
Founded nearly a thousand years ago, this interesting market town still has some of its original fortified walls. Binche is known for its annual Shrove Tuesday Carnival, when some 1,500 revelers, known as the "Gilles" weave through the streets while thousands more look on. In their bizarre costumes, the Gillles create quite a show (it ends with a spectacular shower of fireworks). 40 mi/70 km south of Brussels.
BOUILLON
In the Ardennes Forest near the French border, Bouillon offers the Duke of Bouillon Castle, one of the most beautiful medieval fortresses in the country. The ridge above the river Semois makes for a fine view. 95 mi/155 km southeast of Brussels.
BRUGES
We really think this Venice of the North, set on the banks of the Zwin River, is a must-see. During the 12th and 13th centuries, Bruges (pronounced broozh) was a center of trade and textile manufacturing, as well as the largest city in Belgium. When the Zwin silted up in the late 1400s, the merchants and traders abandoned the city for Antwerp. Economic decline allowed the city to remain unchanged for centuries, which is why it is one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe.

The city is known for its beautiful walks, scenic canals, ancient squares and some of the best lace in Belgium (at the lace center, local women volunteer their time to demonstrate the ancient practice of making lace by hand). The town's 13th-century Grote Markt (Market Square) has a belfry that's 272 ft/83 m tall and a 47-bell carillon that's world famous. It's a strenuous climb to the top, but the belfry provides a great view of the city. Carillon concerts are held on Sundays. Burg Square has several attractions: the 12th-century Holy Blood Basilica (which houses the Relic of the Holy Blood and other artifacts from the Crusades, displayed daily); the 14th-century town hall (beautiful statues and bas-reliefs), where wedding couples in all their finery gather on Fridays for civil ceremonies; and the 18th-century, 245-room Palace of Justice. Farther down the canal is the Church of Our Lady, which houses Michelangelo's Madonna and Child. If you want to visit a medieval house with all its furnishings, drop in on the Gruuthuse Museum.

Other city sights include the 13th-century Beguinage, the medieval guild houses and the 12th-century Medieval Hospital of St. John (now called the Memling Museum, it contains the works of Hans Memling and others). If you're interested in Flemish art, don't miss the Groeninge Museum, which has works by Memling, Van Eyck, Hieronymous Bosch, Roger Van der Weyden and other Flemish painters. If all the art and history gets to be overwhelming, one of the many outdoor cafes serving Belgian beers on the t'Zand Plaza can provide respite and plenty of people-watching opportunities. Be sure to take one of the leisurely boat rides on Bruges' canals. In May, the town hosts the annual Procession of Holy Blood, a solemn feast during which costumed bands reenact stories from the Bible.

Day trips can be made to Kortrijk, 40 mi/65 km south, a town known for its linens (it also has a nice town hall and belfry), and Zeebrugge, a nearby seaside resort with a fishing harbor and scenic promenade. (You can also catch a ferry for England from Zeebrugge.) On a sunny day, a bike ride along the Damme canal to the nearby medieval village of Damme, about 2 mi/5 km north of Bruges, is well worth the time. 55 mi/90 km northwest of Brussels.
BRUSSELS
Since it became the "Capital of Europe," a lot of attention has been focused on Brussels. And, frankly, we have mixed feelings about that. We've always enjoyed its Grand Place, its outstanding restaurants, its green parks, woods and gardens-and we've had them, if not exactly to ourselves, at least with plenty of elbow room. But, now that the city is headquarters for NATO and the nucleus of the European Union, the pace has picked up. There's sometimes a bit of a wait at our previously "undiscovered" restaurant; there are more people wandering through the city's fine museums, markets and palaces; and we have to remind ourselves to make hotel reservations further in advance.

No one would deny that Brussels deserves the economic benefits that increased commerce has brought. The glamour that distinguished the city at the end of the 19th century is returning. Sprinkled with parks, gardens and elegant town houses, Brussels is greener than most other European capitals and has many hidden charms beyond its famous Grand Place. Besides its fine museums and churches, Brussels offers charming cobbled streets, a profusion of markets, art nouveau in abundance and splendid beer.

You'll need a minimum of three days in Brussels to get a feeling for the city. Begin your sightseeing at the ornate, 12th-century Grand Place, one of the most perfectly preserved of all market squares in Europe. A short walk away on the Rue de l'Etuve is the famous Manneken-Pis-the little statue is regarded by Belgians with the reverence usually reserved for religious icons. Close by is the Sablon District: Take some time to explore the Grand Sablon and Petit Sablon Squares.

Because Belgium has a long history in comic-strip art, we recommend touring the Comic Strip Centre or, at a minimum, following the Comic Strip Route to admire the art of that genre around the city. Brussels is home to other wonderful art museums, too, including the must-visit Museum of Ancient Art, Museum of Modern Art and Constantin Meunier Museum. In fact, a ride on Brussels' Metro and tram system can be a cultural experience: Many of the stations contain works of art by Belgium's leading contemporary artists. A special Art in the Metro brochure is available from the Tourist Information Brussels (TIB) office. To get your fill of art-nouveau architecture, be sure to see the Horta Museum and the recently opened Musical Instruments Museum.

History buffs will want to visit the Waterloo battlesite and the nearby Wellington Museum. (If you're not a history buff, you can still enjoy the view of Brussels from the Butte du Lion.) The National Botanical Gardens are at Meise, far enough away to merit taking the bus. For those desiring a taste of Belgium not soon to be forgotten, head to the Gueuze Museum in Anderlecht-it still houses a working brewery.

If you love the performing arts, Brussels will satisfy you: Internationally acclaimed performers turn up with great frequency in this city, and it's worth looking out for the top local ensembles-particularly if you're a fan of early music or contemporary classical music. (Artists of all disciplines, however, complain that the language divide between Flemish and French speakers hampers funding for multicultural projects.) The Palais des Beaux-Arts hosts the world-class Queen Elizabeth music competition every spring. The Theatre Royal de la Monnaie/DeMunt is a renowned venue for opera, music recitals and dance performances. The season runs September-June.

In addition, three important annual cultural festivals take place over a period of many months in a series of Belgian cities and towns, including Brussels: the Brussels Festival, Festival de Wallonie and the Festival of Flanders.

Brussels nightlife has a deserved reputation as being accessible to the initiated only: It may seem that everyone but you knows where to go. Your best bet is to try to get a recommendation from a resident. Whether you want a relaxing drink or a blistering disco inferno, there's plenty going on, even more now that the influx of foreign residents has led to the establishment of some transparently expat hangouts (noticeably the dozen-odd Irish pubs).

To a Belgian, a cafe is where you go to sit for hours nursing a strong Belgian beer or a cup of espresso. In summer, the sidewalk cafes around the Sablon are crowded late into the night. You'll often see street performers. Jazz is popular, and at the Latino-American bars, salsa and rumba are danced well into the morning. Other lively areas in Brussels are around the Rue du Marche au Charbon, Rue du Lombard and, of course, the Grand Place. The trendier side of Brussels' nightlife can be sampled in the Saint-Gery/Rue Antoine Dansaert district.

Generally nightclubs open late (10 or 11 pm) and remain open until the early morning hours. Opening hours for bars can be haphazard and may well depend on the number of patrons at any one time. Bars in the city center are likely to be open most of the day.
DINANT
The hometown of Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the saxophone, Dinant features the onion-domed Church of Notre Dame and the fascinating La Merveilleuse Grotto (with its impressive white stalactites). A citadel sits on top of the Rocher Bayard, a 130-ft/40-m rock pillar. A cable car eases the ascent to the top. 50 mi/80 km southeast of Brussels.
EUPEN
Eupen is an ancient city located in a small German-speaking pocket in the eastern part of the country. It has many churches. Out of town, enjoy countryside walks through the Hertogenwald Forest and the Hautes Fagnes Nature Reserve (pine forests, alpine vegetation and highland moors-type scenery). 90 mi/145 km east of Brussels.

GHENT
Ghent (pop. 237,000) is set on the banks of three rivers-the Lys, Lieve and Scheldt. Once a flourishing medieval city, Ghent is often compared unfavorably to its perfectly preserved neighbor Bruges. Nevertheless, with a university and thriving commerce, it offers a nice combination of ancient and contemporary Belgium.

The old section of town should be seen on foot. Start at St. Michael's Bridge to get an overview, then walk to the belfry (note the copper dragons on top), the town hall (part Renaissance and part Gothic in design), Gothic St. Nicholas Church and the impressive 12th-to-17th-century guild houses on the Graslei quay. For a grisly display of torture instruments, stop by the 100-ft/305-m walled Castle of the Counts of Flanders or the Castle of Geraard de Duvel-Gerald the Devil. A nicer side of human nature is shown at St. Bavo's Cathedral, which has a magnificent art collection, including Van Eyck's The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb and Rubens' The Vocation of St. Bavo (the church closes rather early, so be sure to get there in time to see it). For a different view of the town, take the 30-minute boat ride along the canals (not all boat tours are offered in English year round). There are many other museums, castles and abbeys in the city and surrounding area.

The nearby town of Lochristi holds a begonia festival in late August. If you're driving via Aalst, stop to see its early-15th-century belfry, which looks as if it would be right at home in Bavaria. A day trip can also be made to Sint-Niklaas, about 20 mi/30 km northeast, which has a museum containing the personal and professional belongings of Gerard Mercator (the great map maker, 1512-1589). Sint-Niklaas also has the biggest market square in the country (and that's saying a lot in Belgium!). Ghent is also a good place for student-travelers to relax and mingle with peers in the city's many pubs. If you're not staying overnight, we recommend at least half a day for sightseeing in Ghent. 35 mi/55 km west of Brussels.
LEUVEN
Leuven is the principal university town in Belgium-it's the home of the prestigious Catholic University of Leuven, founded in 1425. The city has many fine old buildings, including the flamboyant stadhuis (town hall), which has the appearance of a gigantic reliquary. There are many churches and a "Beguinage," really a town within a town, containing more than 70 buildings now used to house international graduate students at the university. Although the thriving party culture that surrounds the university will appeal primarily to younger travelers (and of course, the young at heart), the stadhuis and the free tour offered daily are for everyone. 20 mi/30 km east of Brussels.
LIEGE
Liege (pop. 200,000), set in the eastern section of Wallonia, is a grimy industrial town. That said, the city still has enough of interest to merit a two-night visit. Among its attractions are Market Square (with its 17th-century Perron Fountain), the Palace of the Prince-Bishops (beautiful courtyards and columns), Curtius Museum (exhibits from the Gallo-Roman, Renaissance, Baroque and Frankish periods, including a display of glassware and masterpieces of Mosan art) and the Museum of Walloon Life (arts and crafts tell the history of the city during the 19th century). Liege is known for its gunsmiths and crystal, as well as for being the birthplace of Georges Simenon (creator of Inspector Maigret). If you climb up to the citadel on Bueren hill, you'll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the city. Try to plan your visit so it includes a Sunday, when there's a market on the left bank of the Meuse River. Other excursions can be made to Huy, 20 mi/30 km southwest (pewter factories, St. Mengold's Fountain and the ruins of the Abbey of Neufmoustier); Spa, 20 mi/32 km southeast, which is famous (not surprisingly) for its spas-it was the birthplace of the modern spa. Liege is 60 mi/100 km east of Brussels.
NAMUR
Namur (pop. 100,000), the capital of Walloonia, straddles the Meuse and Sambre Rivers at the gateway to the Ardennes. An impressive castle with 27 towers looms over the town from a cliff-top site. The castle has a weapons museum, underground chambers and a scenic (and strategic) view of the surrounding countryside. The town below has a nice cathedral and a casino. 30 mi/50 km west of Brussels.
OSTENDE
This seaside resort, in the middle of Belgium's 40-mi-/65-km-long coastline, is a landing spot for daily ferries to England. Filled with cafes and souvenir shops and fronted by a vast sandy beach, Ostende is a good place to take a break from art-and-history tours. 70 mi/110 km northwest of Brussels.
TONGEREN
Founded in the 1st century AD, Tongeren is Belgium's oldest town and the site of the country's largest antique market. The nearby villages of Diest, Zoutleeuw and St. Truiden (all within a half hour's drive from Tongeren) give a nice glimpse of rural life in Wallonia. 65 mi/105 km east of Brussels.
YPRES
Ypres (called "Wipers" by British Tommies) became known throughout the world as a result of horrific World War I battles. Every night at 8, buglers sound the Last Post at the Menen Gate to commemorate the 250,000 British, French and Belgian soldiers who died there. Totally obliterated during World War I, the town was triumphantly rebuilt afterward-visitors now see an "authentic" medieval wool-trading center. In May of every year, townsfolk reenact the Festival of the Cats, the medieval pastime of tossing mousers from the heights of the town belfry (cloth cats only these days!). 60 mi/100 km west of Brussels.
SHOPPING
Shop for Belgian lace, diamonds, chocolates, earthenware, ceramics, crystal, shoes, antiques, linen, both new and antique tapestries, copperware, pewter, wood carvings, wooden toys and leather goods. In Brussels, the high-quality shopping is done on Boulevard de Waterloo and Avenue Louise. Wild and imaginative hats can be found at Elvis Pompilo on Rue du Midi in Brussels, fabulous fabrics with antique designs at Costermans on the Place du Grand Sablon and huge handmade marionettes at the store on the ground floor of the Toone Puppet Theater in the Ilot Sacre.

Shopping Hours
Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm. In larger cities, stores may be open until 9 pm on Friday.

Banking Hours
Monday-Friday 9 am-12 pm and 2-4 pm.
DINING
The food is varied and delicious (some consider it the best in Europe). And although Belgium is small, you will find regional variations in the cuisine. Flemish and French are the two basic types, and both include wonderful things made with meat (beef, lamb and pork), vegetables and fruit (the fresh cherries and strawberries are excellent when in season). Some dishes we especially enjoy are the fondue au fromage (cheese and fried parsley), waterzooi (a stew made of chicken or seafood with vegetables), ecrevisses a la Liegeoise (crayfish in cream and butter), mokken (a good dessert found in Ghent) and hochepot (a lamb and pork dish). Carbonnade is a stew made with beef, rabbit or chicken, usually cooked in beer. Grand'mere is similar but cooked in red-wine sauce. Don't miss the famous moules (mussels), served in a variety of ways. Order them steamed, boiled with tomato and garlic, or in soups or casseroles. In almost any form, they'll be served with fried potatoes (frites-never say "French" fries in Belgium). Frites are, simply put, a national obsession: You'll find frites stands all over the country, serving snack-size portions in paper cones. (The condiment of choice to accompany frites is a slightly spicy mayonnaise.) One decidedly un-American dish to be aware of is filet americaine-raw beef mixed with mayonnaise and capers.

Justly famed Belgian waffles (gaufres) are wonderful, too, and you can get them covered in anything from fresh whipped cream to melted chocolate sauce. They are usually sold at street stands or in tea shops, rather than as a breakfast food. Speculoos are spicy ginger cookies, usually served with coffee.

The beers are superb. Each of the hundreds of local brands is flavored differently with spices and fruit (many are brewed in monasteries). Among our favorites are Gueuze (frothy and tart, with a hint of apples-it's not exported, so be sure to try it there); Trappist (dark rich ales produced at five monasteries according to old methods-e.g., Chimay and Duvel); lambic (naturally fermented with little carbonation and somewhat sour, similar to Gueuze); and wheat beers (tart, frothy, with a hint of fruit). Most are unfiltered, so beware-your last swallow may be heavy with sediment.

Last but not least are the Belgian chocolates. Choices abound: Wittamer on Place du Grand Sablon; Mary's at 180 Rue Royal (a great place for chocolate purists); Neuhaus at 27 Galerie de la Reine (founded by Jean Neuhaus, the inventor of the praline, and our personal favorite); and Irsi at 15 Rue du Bailli (voted the best by several chocolate-tasting societies). The least expensive variety of authentic Belgian pralines are found at Leonidas, which operates many shops in every town and city.
WEATHER
The best time to visit is from mid May to the end of September, when day temperatures are generally in the 70s-80s F/23-32 C, with nights in the 50s-60s F/10-22 C. The winter months are cold-in the 30s-40s F/0-10 C during the day and below freezing at night. It rains a lot year round (though it's usually only a drizzle), so take a folding umbrella. If you're going strictly for indoor sightseeing (museums, etc.), October can be very nice. If you want to avoid crowds, try mid April to mid June or mid September through October. A sweater is necessary almost year round.
TRANSPORTATION
Major international airlines serve Brussels National Airport (BRU), which is about 7 mi/14 km northeast of Brussels. Transport into town is by taxi, bus or train (there is a convenient train that runs from the airport to the Gare Central in downtown Brussels). Major car-rental companies maintain branches at the airport. Excellent intra-Belgium and trans-Europe rail service connects Belgium with all parts of Europe, and ferries cross the English Channel to Great Britain. Ferries depart from Ostend, Belgium for Ramsgate and Dover, England. Another ferry runs between Zeebrugge, Belgium and Hull, England. Driving is on the right. Trains also connect Brussels to London via the Channel Tunnel, including the Eurostar, the high-speed "Chunnel" train. Belgium offers a Belgian Tourrail card (valid for five travel days in a period of 30 days) and several first- and second-class rail discounts for travel within Belgium. Eurolines and Hoverspeed operate international bus services to and from Belgium. Escorted/hosted, fly/drive and specialty tours (such as those for chocolate lovers) are a few of the ways to see Belgium. You can also rent bicycles at the train stations in bigger cities. Brussels has an excellent subway system. Cards good for 10 trips and all-day cards (for use on metro, tram, bus or train) can be bought from newspaper shops near stations. There are barge trips down rivers and various one-day (or shorter) boat trips from several ports and towns.